HELP for newbie: Brake/Steering failure after MAJOR problem on first drive

Artyldr01

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Jan 25, 2021
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Hello all this is my first post as I JUST received a 97 Convertible as a gift from my mother. A LONG story but it may help you help this newbie with lots of problems out.

My mom has had the car about 5 years but rarely drove it. Kept on a trickle charge over the winter while she was in Florida and barely drove it in the summers.

I picked up the car Tuesday outside Detroit to drive home to North Carolina.

While topping off gas the engine kept reving rhythmically, but not high RPM (may have nothing to do with the bigger problems).

Drove to Louisville no issues other than a constant whine that I can only compare to a dry clutch sound but it seemed near the firewall.

Wednesday morning pull out of the driveway and a POP and power steering is gone, thinkin it was just a hose or the PS unit.

I drive it 2.4 miles to a local shop, and they show me it is MUCH worse.

The motor mounts had apparent failed possibly years ago, likely before my mom got the car and the engine is actually sitting on the rack. The oil pan has been wearing a flat spot in the rack and the rack finally cracked (likely the pop I heard).

They replace the mounts, the rack, bleed the system and find (they thought) the PS unit was leaking. After further research they determined it wasn't but needed further bleeding.

NOW the problem.

The power steering and power brakes don't work properly. Steering is tight at low RPM and gets a BIT better at higher RPM. The brakes have marginal stopping power / feel no matter what.

They thought it was the PS unit and replaced it. Didn't change. They believe it could be "check valves" or the actual hyrdroboost unit but couldn't get parts in time. I had no more time to stay, I had to get back to NC. The steering and brakes worked "good enough" to feel safe to drive home. I made it no issues. However, on the highway the steering tended to "float" a touch, like old 70s cars with PS. Also, while downshifting and coming to a halt at a light I pumped the brakes to see if that helped the "self bleeding" but afterwards the car started reving again.

LASTLY the car, even before all this had a very noticeable whine that made me think of a dry clutch or similar. It seemed at the firewall but made me think clutch or transmission though those both work fine.

I am sorry for the long story, but I gotta get this fixed ASAP.

I have attached a couple photos of the mounts and rack.

ANY help is appreciated.


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ViciousBlack97

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I would tend to agree that the whine is most likely either the throw out bearing or the pilot bearing going bad. Do you know if the steering shaft is in good shape? If the rubber coupler was rotting away, that could cause some looseness. Otherwise, I'd totally attribute the brakes/steering to something in the hydroboost system. Congrats BTW, where in NC? I'm just outside Charlotte.
 

Artyldr01

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Joined
Jan 25, 2021
Messages
4
Location
Raeford, NC
I would tend to agree that the whine is most likely either the throw out bearing or the pilot bearing going bad. Do you know if the steering shaft is in good shape? If the rubber coupler was rotting away, that could cause some looseness. Otherwise, I'd totally attribute the brakes/steering to something in the hydroboost system. Congrats BTW, where in NC? I'm just outside Charlotte.
Vicious, I do not. I was under the car for three days bit didn't think to look at anything but the rack and mounts LOL. I'm in Raeford/Fayetteville.

I have a great mechanic here but are there any SVT/Cobra/Mustang clubs or groups in our area here I could join? Thanks!

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Artyldr01

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Jan 25, 2021
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Location
Raeford, NC
To be clear the brake / steering issue only surfaced after the catastrophic failure. I drove from Detroit to Louisville with zero issues...other than the "whine" and the whine was while driving, not while depressing the clutch.

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DSG2003Mach1

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Central Fl
To be clear the brake / steering issue only surfaced after the catastrophic failure. I drove from Detroit to Louisville with zero issues...other than the "whine" and the whine was while driving, not while depressing the clutch.

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a lot of times a TOB going the noise stops when basically any amount of pressure is put on the clutch pedal. While driving and it's making the noise just put a little pressure on the pedal and if it goes away that just confirms it.

sounds like theres still air in the hydroboost/power steering system. I would search for the process on that but if I remember correctly its just jacking up the front end, with the engine running turn the wheel back to back just shy of full lock. Keep an eye on the PS fluid level. If the tank gets foamy/lots of air bubbles shut the engine off until it clears up. Id see if you have any luck with this.
 

ViciousBlack97

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Here's the bleeding procedure from the 97 FSM, hopefully that will help diagnosing/repairing your issues.
 

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