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Help: Diagnosing Problem with Bullseye Retrofit Headlights
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<blockquote data-quote="Max97COBRAtkd" data-source="post: 15767610" data-attributes="member: 48266"><p>Yes, that is correct, the driver reduced voltage output to the demon eye LED to around 3.6 volts when it works correctly. The driver, however was letting 11.6-11.7 volts (fog light/driving light on, car off) through to the LED causing it to go out. What I fear is when I tried to switch them to the other side and powered it (using passenger faulty driver to power good driver's side demon eye) the surge of 11.6 volts instead of 3.6 volts burned out the LED because now, even using the driver's side as it was, the demon eye that was 100% working, is now not working at all and I'm seeing 11.6 volts at it full time. This would cause me to have to open the case to replace the LED for the demon... Which I obviously don't want to have to do.</p><p></p><p>I totally agree on the connectors for quick switch out though. All these connections are sautered together from whoever the previous owner had install them. I would have used connectors personally too.</p><p></p><p>Yea, I tried to be patient with them... I really did. But the short responses, unanswered phone calls, and only responding on FB messenger felt unprofessional and like they were treating me like an idiot.</p><p></p><p>The white wire going into the driver acts as an interrupter so when you turn the headlights on all the way, the demon eyes turn off. Yes, there are high beams as well.</p><p></p><p></p><p>I think that addresses everything and everyone's questions, if not, let me know.</p><p></p><p>Sent from my Pixel using the <a href="http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=92568" target="_blank">svtperformance.com mobile app</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Max97COBRAtkd, post: 15767610, member: 48266"] Yes, that is correct, the driver reduced voltage output to the demon eye LED to around 3.6 volts when it works correctly. The driver, however was letting 11.6-11.7 volts (fog light/driving light on, car off) through to the LED causing it to go out. What I fear is when I tried to switch them to the other side and powered it (using passenger faulty driver to power good driver's side demon eye) the surge of 11.6 volts instead of 3.6 volts burned out the LED because now, even using the driver's side as it was, the demon eye that was 100% working, is now not working at all and I'm seeing 11.6 volts at it full time. This would cause me to have to open the case to replace the LED for the demon... Which I obviously don't want to have to do. I totally agree on the connectors for quick switch out though. All these connections are sautered together from whoever the previous owner had install them. I would have used connectors personally too. Yea, I tried to be patient with them... I really did. But the short responses, unanswered phone calls, and only responding on FB messenger felt unprofessional and like they were treating me like an idiot. The white wire going into the driver acts as an interrupter so when you turn the headlights on all the way, the demon eyes turn off. Yes, there are high beams as well. I think that addresses everything and everyone's questions, if not, let me know. Sent from my Pixel using the [URL=http://r.tapatalk.com/byo?rid=92568]svtperformance.com mobile app[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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Help: Diagnosing Problem with Bullseye Retrofit Headlights
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