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Help: Diagnosing Problem with Bullseye Retrofit Headlights
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<blockquote data-quote="Huachipato" data-source="post: 15767433" data-attributes="member: 22395"><p>Forgot to send the below message earlier. Sounds like TRS is assisting you. Thought I'd go ahead and share the below information anyways:</p><p></p><p>It sounds like Bullseye asked you to swap the drivers from side to side. Easy to see if the issue follows the driver swap or if it stays with the headlight. I don't think you shared it here yet - but what was the result when you swapped the drivers from one side to another?</p><p></p><p>Here is what I can deduce from what you have shared. It sounds like the resistor pack (Diode current limiter) is in the driver. That would be why the voltage out to the LEDs is 3.6V. That was key to know - don't just put 3.6V (or any voltage really) directly onto the LED leads unless you have a resistor in line to limit the amount of current you are feeding the LEDs - it will burn the LEDs out quickly otherwise.</p><p></p><p>The other suggestion I can provide - something I tend to do with my builds - is adding a easy connection into the set up. I normally use the old barrel connectors like these:</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/inShareplus-Barrel-Connector-Pigtail-Security/dp/B01IBFNH8C" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/inShareplus-Barrel-Connector-Pigtail-Security/dp/B01IBFNH8C</a></p><p>It's a little more work upfront -but It makes swapping different parts in and out very easy instead of a chore. This could be added between the parking lights and the drivers - and probably again between the driver and the LEDs. Just makes it a little easier to work with.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Huachipato, post: 15767433, member: 22395"] Forgot to send the below message earlier. Sounds like TRS is assisting you. Thought I'd go ahead and share the below information anyways: It sounds like Bullseye asked you to swap the drivers from side to side. Easy to see if the issue follows the driver swap or if it stays with the headlight. I don't think you shared it here yet - but what was the result when you swapped the drivers from one side to another? Here is what I can deduce from what you have shared. It sounds like the resistor pack (Diode current limiter) is in the driver. That would be why the voltage out to the LEDs is 3.6V. That was key to know - don't just put 3.6V (or any voltage really) directly onto the LED leads unless you have a resistor in line to limit the amount of current you are feeding the LEDs - it will burn the LEDs out quickly otherwise. The other suggestion I can provide - something I tend to do with my builds - is adding a easy connection into the set up. I normally use the old barrel connectors like these: [URL]https://www.amazon.com/inShareplus-Barrel-Connector-Pigtail-Security/dp/B01IBFNH8C[/URL] It's a little more work upfront -but It makes swapping different parts in and out very easy instead of a chore. This could be added between the parking lights and the drivers - and probably again between the driver and the LEDs. Just makes it a little easier to work with. [/QUOTE]
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Help: Diagnosing Problem with Bullseye Retrofit Headlights
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