Hey guys,
Well I am at the point where I am having to make some choices about where I go with my combo. I would greatly appreciate your thoughts, opinions and guidance as to my current plans to complete my car for the beginning of the cool weather here in FL.
Currently I am..
KB 2.2
Accufab SB TB
2.93/2# (taking lower off soon)
BAP
60s
Magnaflow X and Catback
MAFia
Stock motor/Heads/Cams
and a Steeda CAI.
I am going to be doing a few changes to my combo in order to get everything setup so I only have to get the car tuned 1 time and then race all winter (Florida FTW).
My plans are the following.. (In no particular order)
1. Take car in garage, install the power grip HD sitting on the shelf.
2. Going to disassemble the motor and add ARP hardware, new rings and callico coated bearings. Bottom end works fine, so I figure why not do 500 bucks of R&R now rather than alot more later. Also replace the plugs.
3. Learn how to time the cams myself and add a set of Ford GT cams with comp or crower springs and retainers (whichever can be had for less money) and mildly home port the heads.
4. Play with the stock KB inlet, see if we can increase the flow on it.
5. Add a tubular K member, but I want to do so without having to use coil-overs. Do they make any kits where you can just use the K-member, or just the K-member and A-arms without the coilovers?
6. Find out if my steeda CAI is a restriction (see below) and then replace it.
7. Add a set of longtubes and figure out if there is going to be a big difference between a 1 5/8in primary 2.5in collector MAC header vs a larger 1 3/4 primary with 3in collector like on some of the more expensive headers.
8. Welds 15x3.5 and 15x9 true slicks (Hoosier drag slicks probably) as per Senkak the slick is the way to go for a vert. Possibly some suspension changes if the car doesn't hook as is, but until I try no reason to mess with it. Slip-on 1in spacers for the front, and longer moroso wheelstuds for all! (Car has a SRA).
9. Once all the changes are done and clutch is broken in, decide on a local tuner to take care of all of it. Horsepower by Hermann used to tune it in Tampa and it saddens me he is gone, Hermann was one of the best. However I heard about Justin from VMP from Senkak at a private track rental, and am strongly leaning towards him, unless I find someone else closer that really specializes in making KB power.
I have some questions below, wanted to get some advice from you guys. the number in brackets (x) represents which item above the question below is in reference to.
(3) Is there any sure fire listed procedure on how to time aftermarket (Ford GT cams?) Do the cams come with Cam gears attached that have timing marks or is there some other way to do it? There are all kinds of cars with cams, yet no one seems to know how to do this. Do they sell offset keys or something?
(5) Do they make a K-member where you can just run the K, or just run the K and A arms without running the coil-overs? I have no interest in the added complexity or adjustment afforded by coil-overs. Nothing against them, just not my cup of tea. Preferably the UPR K member since it is so reasonably priced. I just figured a vert would really benefit from weight reduction on the nose.
(6).My steeda CAI is a blue 9in filter basically adapted to the stock MAF housing. I notice when I start my car I hear a kind of whistling sound coming from the intake tube, when I take the filter off the sound goes away.
Is this because the filter is too restrictive? Or? I actually was planning on making a custom RAI using an S&B 12in coupled to the stock MAF coupled to a 4in PVC pipe then using a JLT silicone adapter connecting it to the TB. I keep the steeda filter very clean (clean it every 5k miles).
At this point in my combo (going down to a 2.93 upper only with stock lower) I should be about 18ish PSI. Do you guys think I am leaving a significant amount of power on the table at this level by staying with the steeda 9in attached to the stock MAF and intake tube? Or would my money be better spent elsewhere? I figure it will cost me about 100 bucks to do the RAI with the 12in. More if I need a new MAF. Most boost car will ever see is 21 psi. (pullied for, not indicated)
(7) At my power and boost level, is there a large enough difference to worry about 1 5/8 vs 1 3/4 and 2.5 vs 3in when it comes to headers? If I have to spend twice the cost on headers I can't do cams.
(8) Does anyone have the part number for the longer length studs for the cobras? I have a mach 1 SRA in the rear. Also I am going to be running a 28in tall tire in the rear. I plan on changing the gear and want to stay with a ford gear. Will a 3.73 give me enough ooomph to spin them in the burnout box and still give me a bit of room to grow trap speed wise at the top end? My only other option is 4.10 and I just don't want to give it that much gear, since when I up the boost and turn on the happy gas I'll need 5th. What do you guys think?
Sorry for the long post, but I figure this next round of mods should fully prepare me for 6 long months of racing here in FL come new years. I want the vert to be ready so I can start kicking ass. I am hoping to get kicked out of bradenton for running a 10.xx very soon. Then I will add the MM 6-point so I can join the fun again, but not until then lol.
Well I am at the point where I am having to make some choices about where I go with my combo. I would greatly appreciate your thoughts, opinions and guidance as to my current plans to complete my car for the beginning of the cool weather here in FL.
Currently I am..
KB 2.2
Accufab SB TB
2.93/2# (taking lower off soon)
BAP
60s
Magnaflow X and Catback
MAFia
Stock motor/Heads/Cams
and a Steeda CAI.
I am going to be doing a few changes to my combo in order to get everything setup so I only have to get the car tuned 1 time and then race all winter (Florida FTW).
My plans are the following.. (In no particular order)
1. Take car in garage, install the power grip HD sitting on the shelf.
2. Going to disassemble the motor and add ARP hardware, new rings and callico coated bearings. Bottom end works fine, so I figure why not do 500 bucks of R&R now rather than alot more later. Also replace the plugs.
3. Learn how to time the cams myself and add a set of Ford GT cams with comp or crower springs and retainers (whichever can be had for less money) and mildly home port the heads.
4. Play with the stock KB inlet, see if we can increase the flow on it.
5. Add a tubular K member, but I want to do so without having to use coil-overs. Do they make any kits where you can just use the K-member, or just the K-member and A-arms without the coilovers?
6. Find out if my steeda CAI is a restriction (see below) and then replace it.
7. Add a set of longtubes and figure out if there is going to be a big difference between a 1 5/8in primary 2.5in collector MAC header vs a larger 1 3/4 primary with 3in collector like on some of the more expensive headers.
8. Welds 15x3.5 and 15x9 true slicks (Hoosier drag slicks probably) as per Senkak the slick is the way to go for a vert. Possibly some suspension changes if the car doesn't hook as is, but until I try no reason to mess with it. Slip-on 1in spacers for the front, and longer moroso wheelstuds for all! (Car has a SRA).
9. Once all the changes are done and clutch is broken in, decide on a local tuner to take care of all of it. Horsepower by Hermann used to tune it in Tampa and it saddens me he is gone, Hermann was one of the best. However I heard about Justin from VMP from Senkak at a private track rental, and am strongly leaning towards him, unless I find someone else closer that really specializes in making KB power.
I have some questions below, wanted to get some advice from you guys. the number in brackets (x) represents which item above the question below is in reference to.
(3) Is there any sure fire listed procedure on how to time aftermarket (Ford GT cams?) Do the cams come with Cam gears attached that have timing marks or is there some other way to do it? There are all kinds of cars with cams, yet no one seems to know how to do this. Do they sell offset keys or something?
(5) Do they make a K-member where you can just run the K, or just run the K and A arms without running the coil-overs? I have no interest in the added complexity or adjustment afforded by coil-overs. Nothing against them, just not my cup of tea. Preferably the UPR K member since it is so reasonably priced. I just figured a vert would really benefit from weight reduction on the nose.
(6).My steeda CAI is a blue 9in filter basically adapted to the stock MAF housing. I notice when I start my car I hear a kind of whistling sound coming from the intake tube, when I take the filter off the sound goes away.
Is this because the filter is too restrictive? Or? I actually was planning on making a custom RAI using an S&B 12in coupled to the stock MAF coupled to a 4in PVC pipe then using a JLT silicone adapter connecting it to the TB. I keep the steeda filter very clean (clean it every 5k miles).
At this point in my combo (going down to a 2.93 upper only with stock lower) I should be about 18ish PSI. Do you guys think I am leaving a significant amount of power on the table at this level by staying with the steeda 9in attached to the stock MAF and intake tube? Or would my money be better spent elsewhere? I figure it will cost me about 100 bucks to do the RAI with the 12in. More if I need a new MAF. Most boost car will ever see is 21 psi. (pullied for, not indicated)
(7) At my power and boost level, is there a large enough difference to worry about 1 5/8 vs 1 3/4 and 2.5 vs 3in when it comes to headers? If I have to spend twice the cost on headers I can't do cams.
(8) Does anyone have the part number for the longer length studs for the cobras? I have a mach 1 SRA in the rear. Also I am going to be running a 28in tall tire in the rear. I plan on changing the gear and want to stay with a ford gear. Will a 3.73 give me enough ooomph to spin them in the burnout box and still give me a bit of room to grow trap speed wise at the top end? My only other option is 4.10 and I just don't want to give it that much gear, since when I up the boost and turn on the happy gas I'll need 5th. What do you guys think?
Sorry for the long post, but I figure this next round of mods should fully prepare me for 6 long months of racing here in FL come new years. I want the vert to be ready so I can start kicking ass. I am hoping to get kicked out of bradenton for running a 10.xx very soon. Then I will add the MM 6-point so I can join the fun again, but not until then lol.
