HELP! Built engine, 2500 miles, METAL SHAVINGS!

Spoolin B00ST

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So as some of you know I just bought my 01 cobra. I love the car and I got a really good deal on it so this really doesn't hurt my feelings as much as it should. The car had the engine built back in 2009 and only ~2000 miles on the engine before I bought it. I drove it for 600 ish miles and changed the oil as per instructions from previous owner and the oil was clear, looked great.
I put Valvoline 5-20 synthetic in it, 6.5 quarts. (Bearings are standard size according to the engine specs and receipts) and 100 miles later the oil had a grey tint to it. Fast forward to now and another oil change, after ~60 miles the oil has a very very fine metal in it, and a few good size chunks that come out with the dip stick. I broke open the last oil filter and I found a couple decent size chunks, but nothing I could see actually getting into the oil galleries.

Before I break into the engine, what are the chances it's a valve train problem? I have not tested it with a magnet, but there is absolutely no bronze or gold at all. It has also developed a very slight tick at idle that I can hear.
Car is a vortech sc supercharged 01 cobra. Engine was built by Don's in Kenosha, WI. Limiter is set ~7500
Car had a 3 angle valve job but everything else is stock in the heads. 25000 miles on the car.
 
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01yellercobra

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You're going to have to tear into it. Only 2000 miles in 8 years makes me think the PO knew of an issue and passed it on to you.

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Spoolin B00ST

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You're going to have to tear into it. Only 2000 miles in 8 years makes me think the PO knew of an issue and passed it on to you.

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I personally know the PO and the car was really only drove by his son and he's a trucker, it was only taken out to get beat on or the drag strip or shown off.

What was wierd to me was the oil was awesome before I changed it, then after the change it like triggered something.
 

01yellercobra

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Ok. Glad you didn't use a Fram. We can throw ideas out all day, but unfortunately you're going tho have to tear into it to see what failed. And you're going to have to clean all that junk out as well.

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Spoolin B00ST

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Ok. Glad you didn't use a Fram. We can throw ideas out all day, but unfortunately you're going tho have to tear into it to see what failed. And you're going to have to clean all that junk out as well.

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That is true unfortunately, she will need a good cleaning. Is there any known valve train problems with these cars that would present these symptoms?
 

01yellercobra

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None that I can think of. Usually if I hear about a valve train problem it's the heads getting starved for oil and that causes all kinds of issues. It usually ends up with torn up cams and trashed heads.

What crank dampner are you running? Do you know what oil pump was used?
 

Spoolin B00ST

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None that I can think of. Usually if I hear about a valve train problem it's the heads getting starved for oil and that causes all kinds of issues. It usually ends up with torn up cams and trashed heads.

What crank dampner are you running? Do you know what oil pump was used?
I'll be able to tell you in about 4 hours when I get off work to look at the paperwork, I think they are both stock, I don't remember seeing anything about a different dampener or oil pump used.
 

01yellercobra

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That might be your issue then. Personally I wouldn't run a stock pump and dampner with a blower. Especially if you're spinning it to 7500.

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Spoolin B00ST

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I don't see anything in my paperwork about an aftermarket dampner or oil pump or an aftermarket oil pump. Dam what a shame. What are the chances it wiped out my blower too? Car still starts up, idles great and runs awesome. Just doesn't take long for the shavings to make their way into the new oil.
 

01yellercobra

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I wouldn't run it anymore. The chances of it getting to the blower are pretty good unfortunately. You can always have it rebuilt though. Depending on the blower you currently have you can use it as an excuse to upgrade.

Of course the oil pump thing is just my theory. I ran an ATI over drive crank and used a Melling oil pump on my last engine just to be safe.

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Spoolin B00ST

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I have all the paperwork for my engine that states it was balanced, all the torque specs and the bearings used and all, would I be safe to tear it all down myself and clean everything really good and just replace the bearings? Maybe re ring it too? Only thing I have to really check clearances is Plasti gauge. Thanks for all your help the past couple weeks lol.
 

nxhappy

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step#1, leak down and compression test ....everything else is speculation

with metal shavings the bearings are most likely toast....do not drive the car any more until this is solved or you WILL cause more damage
 

Spoolin B00ST

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step#1, leak down and compression test ....everything else is speculation

with metal shavings the bearings are most likely toast....do not drive the car any more until this is solved or you WILL cause more damage
Car has been parked now, it will not be driven until this weekend and that's just down the road to the garage so I can pull the valve covers off and inspect. What's the purpose of doing a compression and leakdown test in this situation? Isn't that just telling me the shape of my rings and valves/seats? I did notice that the car had a decent amount of blow by coming out of the breathers, I didn't think really anything of it. I figured maybe the rings were just gapped a little big
 

01yellercobra

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IMO I woildnt bother with a leak down at this point. If you're lucky you'll be able to get away with new bearings, rings, and gaskets. If you're concerned you can have the heads looked over by a machine shop. I think I paid $100 to have mine cleaned and inspected. Which I was glad I did since they found a bent exhaust valve.

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