Heat Exchanger Coolant Tank

93VORTECH

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Is there any real advantages to using an aftermarket bigger reservoir like the Moroso or LFP ones?? I stumbled upon a good deal on a LFP Black H/E Coolant Tank but not sure if I wanna install it? The stock tank sits alot lower and I feel looks better. I'm just torn about installing this if there's not really any advantages. I see a lot of guys on here running aftermarket blowers with the stock Overflow Tank. I have an AFCO and don't have any problems with temps. No plans to use ice or drag race. Let me know what your opinions are. Thanks
 

93VORTECH

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Are you running a killer chiller?

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Nah. Stock Eaton w/ 2.8 Upper, AFCO H/E, CAI and some other typical upgrades. Nothing Crazy. One day I'll upgrade the Blower and just wondering if it's worth keeping this Oversized Tank or sell it. See my sig for my mod list
 

rymax101

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Nah. Stock Eaton w/ 2.8 Upper, AFCO H/E, CAI and some other typical upgrades. Nothing Crazy. See my sig for my mod list
Essentially the fluid will never cool down except for when it goes through the heat exchanger and while resting in the tank. The more fluid you have the more rest it gets and you can do longer pulls since you have more fluid before iat2 gets above your timing pull limit

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cj428mach

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I went with a larger aftermarket coolant tank because of the large opening in it. I'm not a guy thats going to run water in my IC system because we get well below freezing in the winter, but I thought maybe with the large opening I could freeze something and just stick in it in the opening and run the intercooler pump. Something like these...
13323.jpg


I have yet to try it though.
 

ctgreddy

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At your level/driving style, use whatever you think looks better. IMO the aftermarket tanks look way better than stock, but that's all subjective. If you think the stock one looks better just keep it.
 

ShaneCobra74

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On my convertible, I have a ported Eaton w/2.4 pulley, AFCO DP, and run a stock tank. I like a stock tank because I can witness the fluid cycling and see the fluid level. Its just a visual way for me ensure the IC pump is working as it should.
 

zredfire04

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i think of it like this:

the intercooler system pulls heat out of the air charge. in an ideal system, the heat exchanger would remove all pf the heat that the coolant picked up. since that is highly unlikely in all conditions, the next best method to increase the amount of heat the system can handle is to increase the volume of coolant in the system. eventually the coolant in the larger tank will get to the same as it will with the stock tank, it just takes longer.

the downside is that it takes longer for the heat exchanger to get the heat out once you get out of boost.
 

roy_1031

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On my convertible, I have a ported Eaton w/2.4 pulley, AFCO DP, and run a stock tank. I like a stock tank because I can witness the fluid cycling and see the fluid level. Its just a visual way for me ensure the IC pump is working as it should.

Taking off the cap let's you visually see the coolant flowing too.


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MBoyle1

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If your not iceing at the track,don't bother! Less fluid( in hot engine bay) is better. Also quality of some is poor & stain easy,caps & gasket leak
 

Four Door SVT

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There are more physics related issues than the amount of water in the system. First would be how fast the water moves thru the heat exchanger and intercooler in order to be able to transfer the heat to its maximum capacity. For example if the water goes into the intercooler at 40* and leaves at 50* it's moving to fast and if the opposite if it was 130* it would be moving too slow. That would make the amount of water in the system has zero effect besides enough to fill it properly. One of the best ways to determine proper flow for maximum efficiency is to have temp sensor on the inlet and outlet of each of the intercooler and heat exchanger and to have a temperature regulating device on the outlet of the intercooler. Also adding ice to the reservoir will cool the circulation pump and heat exchanger cooling the air charge across the radiator more than the combustion air charge. The proper placement of an ice exchange box would be just prior to entering intercooler.
 

ShaneCobra74

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Taking off the cap let's you visually see the coolant flowing too.


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Obviously. I get it, man. I just don't want to have to take the cap off every time I want to check to make sure the IC pump is working. My coupe has an aftermarket tank and its a royal pain in the ass to remove the aircraft grade cap, which is brand new. To each their own. As others have stated, if you're not tracking the car, its more of an appearance mod.
 
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Four Door SVT

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To accomplish that, alll you have to do is change the routing of the OEM intercooler hoses.

--Joe

Not exactly correct, the reservoir is placed prior to the pump to provide air to escape and to keep the pump primed after maintenance, adding a ice bucket reservoir before the intercooler would be the best non killer chiller method. I'm running a killer chiller the chilled water goes straight to the intercooler for best results
 

zredfire04

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i lifted this from an engineering forum, so not my words but 100% correct. this is from a discussion on the myth of coolant moving too fast through an engine/radiator

"Let's assume that the amount of heat that you need to remove from the engine is a constant, say 50,000 BTU/hr.

If the cooling through the engine is say 5 gpm, that gives you a temperature rise through the engine. Using water properties(to simiplify the math), that works out to a 20 degree rise.

Now, if we double the water flow rate to 10 gpm, the temperature rise is only 10 degrees. This affects two things. If we also assume the inlet water temperature is a constant, this increases the temperature difference between the coolant and the engine. It also greatly increases the heat transfer because the film coefficient of the water is increased (or the film resistance is reduced)."

so yeah, there are physics involved.

my assertion regarding the volume of water in the system stands since more water can hold more heat than less water. the point i was aiming for is that if the heat exchanger can't bring the coolant down to ambient temp during a WOT run, more water is better as it will take more heat energy to raise the average temp of the water in the system.
 
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zredfire04

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now, before anyone decides to go full hyperboletard there's one caviat...there is certainly some unknown fluid velocity at which no heat transfer occurs. fortunately, none of the components in the system will approach that velocity.

it is generally the case that if you want more heat transfer, you need more coolant flow.

lastly, if you really want to measure how efficient your coolant system is, look at pressure drop instead of temperature change. the less pressure drop the better.
 

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