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2nd Generation
heads and cams installation
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<blockquote data-quote="FordFanStan" data-source="post: 8217108" data-attributes="member: 24501"><p>I The LFP head change kit from LFP is the FRPP one if I am not mistaken. That is fine to use and cheaper when bought in that package. It uses the 4 layer Ford MLS gaskets which are great. You will need to check the deck surface of the block when the old heads are yanked, and depending on how much boost/miles, and especially if N2o was used, more than likely your deck surface will be warped and will need to be decked before you can bolt the new heads on and go. If that is the case, it would be best to just rebuild it with new rings, bearings, and while you're in there rods and pistons too. With that said, it really would be simpler to just order a complete shortblock (and use your new heads/cams) or longblock from a L builder and just drop it in. In fact you could always send in your heads/cams to be used on one of the builder's shortblocks, but if I had to bet money the heads would need more work then.</p><p></p><p>In all reality, swapping heads and cams is a lot of work to do to keep the stock shortblock, similar to what Bob said, I think it is actually easier to just yank the entire engine if you're going to be doing that much work. It makes it so much easier to make sure you get the gaskets/surfaces/heads on right and torque them all down properly and stuff rather than inside the truck. ALOT easier too if you want to use ARP head studs then also. FFS</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="FordFanStan, post: 8217108, member: 24501"] I The LFP head change kit from LFP is the FRPP one if I am not mistaken. That is fine to use and cheaper when bought in that package. It uses the 4 layer Ford MLS gaskets which are great. You will need to check the deck surface of the block when the old heads are yanked, and depending on how much boost/miles, and especially if N2o was used, more than likely your deck surface will be warped and will need to be decked before you can bolt the new heads on and go. If that is the case, it would be best to just rebuild it with new rings, bearings, and while you're in there rods and pistons too. With that said, it really would be simpler to just order a complete shortblock (and use your new heads/cams) or longblock from a L builder and just drop it in. In fact you could always send in your heads/cams to be used on one of the builder's shortblocks, but if I had to bet money the heads would need more work then. In all reality, swapping heads and cams is a lot of work to do to keep the stock shortblock, similar to what Bob said, I think it is actually easier to just yank the entire engine if you're going to be doing that much work. It makes it so much easier to make sure you get the gaskets/surfaces/heads on right and torque them all down properly and stuff rather than inside the truck. ALOT easier too if you want to use ARP head studs then also. FFS [/QUOTE]
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