i'm now going to try and hook upnew new heads and cams that i bought while i was deployed. but in all honesty i have no clue where to start but i want ot do it myself instead of someone else doing it. Ive changed heads before but the cams are what scare me. Anything i need to know about installing the heads that i might run into, any issues some of you guys had before? With the cams they came pre installed. but how do i make sure they are nice and tight and stuff and how do itime them in and all that goodness?:shrug:
heads and cams installation
- Thread starter 02_lightning_NP
- Start date
Your gonna have to break it down a little bit further than this:
@ jster171
Did you change the heads without take the engine out ?
Did you change the heads without take the engine out ?
Here is my motor just prior to taking the chains off and unbolting the heads. The hardest part of all this is probably removing the bracket on the back of the passengers side head that holds some coolant lines. That was a pita to get off.
To the op,
My suggestion is have a professional do it for you, or at least degree the cams for you if you have never dealt with OHC engines before. Once you're use to it, it is pretty simple, but without experience it is a real PITA. And then you get to the 4v's lmao.... makes 2v's seem like cake work. FFS
That bracket takes a 10mm box end wrench, fits nicely
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My suggestion is have a professional do it for you, or at least degree the cams for you if you have never dealt with OHC engines before. Once you're use to it, it is pretty simple, but without experience it is a real PITA. And then you get to the 4v's lmao.... makes 2v's seem like cake work. FFS
That bracket takes a 10mm box end wrench, fits nicely
.FFS, i was pushing for someone else to degree them for me but up here in AK there arent very many people within reach that have any SVT experience. I wont even let the local ford dealership touchmy truck, last time they did they forgot to fill up the damn S/C after they drained it. lots of issues. but if i can find someone ill have them do it for sure. what type of gaskets should i use, i was looking at the LFP head change kit and thought about using them.
I just bought all the gaskets/head bolts needed from Tousley Ford and they were right at $350 for everything. All OEM stuff.
You can get the heads on/off without pulling the block but in all honesty once to that point you aren't far timewise from pulling the engine anyways and doing so will make the process easier for you. Understandable if you don't own a hoist/stand however. It is recommended to degree the cams in but unless something was done seriously wrong when the cams were made you can bolt the gears on and go. Modulardepot.com used to have a detailed tech article on timing a modular engine. If it isn't there I'm sure someone on here has some pics or we can point you to a how-to on another forum.
I The LFP head change kit from LFP is the FRPP one if I am not mistaken. That is fine to use and cheaper when bought in that package. It uses the 4 layer Ford MLS gaskets which are great. You will need to check the deck surface of the block when the old heads are yanked, and depending on how much boost/miles, and especially if N2o was used, more than likely your deck surface will be warped and will need to be decked before you can bolt the new heads on and go. If that is the case, it would be best to just rebuild it with new rings, bearings, and while you're in there rods and pistons too. With that said, it really would be simpler to just order a complete shortblock (and use your new heads/cams) or longblock from a L builder and just drop it in. In fact you could always send in your heads/cams to be used on one of the builder's shortblocks, but if I had to bet money the heads would need more work then.
In all reality, swapping heads and cams is a lot of work to do to keep the stock shortblock, similar to what Bob said, I think it is actually easier to just yank the entire engine if you're going to be doing that much work. It makes it so much easier to make sure you get the gaskets/surfaces/heads on right and torque them all down properly and stuff rather than inside the truck. ALOT easier too if you want to use ARP head studs then also. FFS
In all reality, swapping heads and cams is a lot of work to do to keep the stock shortblock, similar to what Bob said, I think it is actually easier to just yank the entire engine if you're going to be doing that much work. It makes it so much easier to make sure you get the gaskets/surfaces/heads on right and torque them all down properly and stuff rather than inside the truck. ALOT easier too if you want to use ARP head studs then also. FFS
I see your in north pole. I was @ fort Wainwright a few weeks ago and I couldve helped. It's fairly straight forward. Biggest deal is make sure you dont mistake the cam position sensor trigger for a timing mark.
ey thanks guys for all the comments, and yeah (my98stang46) that would have been awesome because there are to many ways to mess this up so im going to just wait and yank the entire block and get forged slugs put in and get everything prof. redone. buying a new shortblock wouldnt be the hard part, the shipping it will cost to get the block up here is the true killer, im tryingto wait till iget back to the lower 48 andthats when im going to get a fully built block. just dont know yet. thanks for all the help guys, but im gonna wait.
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