I plan on adding a new H/E before I add more boost, but should I add headers before I get the SC ported from Steig? I will eventually do both. I was just wondering on ya'lls opinion on the matter.
Headers before ported SC?
- Thread starter Cornstang
- Start date
Do the port job. The headers aren't a really good "Bang for the Buck" mod untill you are pushing 17+ lbs of boost. There are a lot of 600+ RWHP cars out there with stock manifolds.
Headers
I like mine but expensive and a PITA to install. One mod leads to another ie; Headers, x pipes, cat backs on and on. Best advice I can give is spend the money on the drivetrain/irs and get it right first! Will save you a lot of expense in the long run. Then boost the HP! Find Postban's signature and research the "pill" on IRS mods. Good luck!!! :coolman:
I like mine but expensive and a PITA to install. One mod leads to another ie; Headers, x pipes, cat backs on and on. Best advice I can give is spend the money on the drivetrain/irs and get it right first! Will save you a lot of expense in the long run. Then boost the HP! Find Postban's signature and research the "pill" on IRS mods. Good luck!!! :coolman:
Silver Serpent
Banned
Headers tend to leak. Most people don't do headers on these cars. But it's up to you.
I would get the port job done, the headers are more for when you are trying to squeze every little bit of HP you can out of it. The SC port will help reduce heat produced in our Heatons, and give you more power.
James
James
hmm i guess i will skip the headers even if i do go KB then
Great! Thanks guys. I guess I know what I need to do next.
I have had headers on since the day I pullied up 3 years ago.... I think they are a great mod if you are outta things to do, but many other things are more important. On a side note though, my car continues to run stronger than most other similarily modded cars with the headers being the only difference. Less boost and the same or little more power is always a good thing!
I'll go against the crowd and say get the headers first. I did long tubes with a full 3" exhaust as my first mod and picked up over 30hp at the wheels (ON A STOCK CAR). There's a dyno graph around here somewhere that shows it.
Some people argue that it's not a good $/hp mod and that they're a pain to install and maintain. The install was involved, but it was not impossible... nothing a normal person couldn't do given the right tools, some patience, and an extra hand or two. Maintenance has been a none-issue for me. I used Stage 8 locking fasteners so the flanges should never need retorquing and the Stainless Works headers come with a welded collector so there won't be any leaks there either. Ground clearance is fine, but I'm at stock height. As far as them being a waste of money, as someone already stated in this thread, I'd rather do things right the first time. Plus, every other HP mod you do from here on out will give you more of a gain than it would without the headers. Throw in the added benefit of heat removal and I think its a no brainer...
Just my $.02
Some people argue that it's not a good $/hp mod and that they're a pain to install and maintain. The install was involved, but it was not impossible... nothing a normal person couldn't do given the right tools, some patience, and an extra hand or two. Maintenance has been a none-issue for me. I used Stage 8 locking fasteners so the flanges should never need retorquing and the Stainless Works headers come with a welded collector so there won't be any leaks there either. Ground clearance is fine, but I'm at stock height. As far as them being a waste of money, as someone already stated in this thread, I'd rather do things right the first time. Plus, every other HP mod you do from here on out will give you more of a gain than it would without the headers. Throw in the added benefit of heat removal and I think its a no brainer...
Just my $.02
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unit213 said:
I think you need to look at dyno graphs before you make a claim like that about losing torque. I doubt like hell that they lost torque. I bet if anything there torque curve is a lot fatter then before. You cannot compare tq at the same rpm and get a good overall picture of what the mod did. If people could have AVERAGE HP AND TORQUE displayed on a dyno graph from 2000rpm-6000rpm we could get a good picture of just how well something did if you understand about the area under the curve.
Lots of motors make the same hp and torque, but some pull better then others and this is where looking at average hp/tq shows you the difference.
Do the port because many people seem to be looking for big increase for less money and this is why some motors are shitting the bed early. Headers will give you an increase not as big, but they will breath better(let you rpm nicer) and will get done eventually. I will add headers to my car and never plan to leave the stock manifolds on.
Heat was mentioned, what are the chances of headers getting a little more heat out of the motor? I dont want to just hear that they will, I want to know exactly why, the scientific reason for this happening if it does... Getting heat out of these motors SEEMS to be a big help when it comes to keeping from getting the head tick if that is indeed related to the valve guides getting too hot and wearing faster.
MystichromeVert said:
Don't confuse people. Put the Stock Exhaust and H-pipe on there and watch how you lose 26hp.
95% of your gain was from the removal of the stock H and Catback, not the headers.
Your claims read like something off the KB webpage!
oke:
MystichromeVert
I thought we had already been through this
You keep telling eveyone that you gained 30 hp adding header but your not telling the whole story. Vox is right. You negleted to tell them that the increase was accompanied by adding an X pipe and cat back's which accounts for the majority of your claim. You even agreed to this fact after I pointed this out.
It funny how some people like to justify their adding headers to their Cobra by making claims about them. Even MM&FF measured only a 10 hp increase AT THE FLYWHEEL when they added headers. Your money, hassle would be put to better use elsewhere.
Is Stainless Steel Works giving you a commision on every set of headers they sell?
I thought we had already been through this
You keep telling eveyone that you gained 30 hp adding header but your not telling the whole story. Vox is right. You negleted to tell them that the increase was accompanied by adding an X pipe and cat back's which accounts for the majority of your claim. You even agreed to this fact after I pointed this out.
It funny how some people like to justify their adding headers to their Cobra by making claims about them. Even MM&FF measured only a 10 hp increase AT THE FLYWHEEL when they added headers. Your money, hassle would be put to better use elsewhere.
Is Stainless Steel Works giving you a commision on every set of headers they sell?
SlowSVT said:
I told one person that, and you correctly called me on it. Read a little bit closer in this thread and you'll see I included that info this time.
MystichromeVert said:
It seems clear to me.
I'm not trying to confuse or deceive people. I'm trying to get the point across that long tubes are not the devil like everyone makes them out to be.
(Edit) If I remember correctly, you even admitted that you've never had them on your Cobra, so how do you know they're so bad? Just because a magazine says they are? Those magazines are making more on the deal than I am stating my opinion.
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Blak92 said:
I may have discredited myself as being a moron, but I believe the thinking there is that the cast iron manifolds hold a lot more heat next to the head than the tubular headers would. I don't have any factual proof to back that up, but I think it's the general idea. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.
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