Head prep for boost

[97 Nightmare]

Ok so I spun a rod bearing in my Cobra so now it's an excuse to do something fun with it. I've pieced together a bottom end and need insight on what I need to do to my heads.

Goal is high 500 or low 600 on horsepower. I'll be achieving this by way of a Hellion single turbo kit. I wanna run the 67mm if that'll get me where I wanna be.

Bottom end so far:

03 Cast iron block
Forged 8 bolt crank
03 Manley h-beams
15cc dished cp pistons with valve reliefs
03 arp rod bolts
Arp head studs
Arp main studs
Mmr side bolts
Mmr heavy duty oil pump
Clevite 77p rod bearings
Federal mogul main bearings
Mod max plasma moly rings

I think that's the main stuff.

So what would be suggestions on what head gaskets to run? Or what head prep should be done? Stainless valves? High lift springs? Etc etc. I will still be running the B heads and have zero intention of switching to C heads.

I've called various places but it seems they just want to suggest whatever they are selling. Thanks in advance guys.

Cory

 

[stangbanger856]

Good head surface prep, valve job, good springs ,stock cams and adjustable cam gears. Ihh and Cometic HGs.

 

[MLS]

Pretty much any turbo can get you to 500RWHP but just out of curiosity,What CR are you running and why wont you even consider switching to c heads? C heads have gone down in price significantly lately and arent that hard to install, for example I just got a set of 03 heads for $650 shipped with 10k mi on them. I know B heads are awesome race heads, but 03 heads are awesome race and street heads. If it were me I would atleast get the b heads a street port to open up the bowl area.

 

[encasedmetal]

Pretty much any turbo can get you to 500RWHP but just out of curiosity,What CR are you running and why wont you even consider switching to c heads? C heads have gone down in price significantly lately and arent that hard to install, for example I just got a set of 03 heads for $650 shipped with 10k mi on them. I know B heads are awesome race heads, but 03 heads are awesome race and street heads. If it were me I would atleast get the b heads a street port to open up the bowl area.

his CR will be right around 9:1 depending on decking of heads and gasket thickness. OP wondering though why you would get a piston with valve reliefs if not running aftermarket cams? or are you?

 

[97 Nightmare]

Originally I intended to run stage 3 comp camshafts when I was planning the build about 6 months ago. I was also planning a supercharger setup then and decided against it just because of the efficiency and adjustability of turbo. I like the idea of changing the boost level at the touch of a button.

As for not wanting C heads, it's mainly just cosmetic. I have powder coated valve covers and intake and I just really like the way it looks.

So far though my suggestions have been valve job, good springs, lhh?, and cometic head gaskets.

Any feedback on the livernois springs? And when you say valve job do you mean just reseating them and installing new seals and retainers? Would it be ok to stick with the factory valves? How many problems do B heads really have under boost? I've read countless topics on here over the year or so I've been a member but never seen a project as simple as mine. I am not even sure what type of boost levels I'm looking at to get to where I wanna be. The guy I was taking advice from lost my trust because he has been making quite a few mistakes recently. In my area, SC, there aren't many people knowledgeable about mustangs. I know I'm very close to Amazon Tuning but I have my reasons for not going there. Never will.

Sorry to ask so many questions but I just wanna do this right the first time and not have to go back to it.

Also, any insight on the Lethal Performance Division X fuel hats? Fuel system is another thing I'm lost on as to what I'll need to get to my goal.

Thanks again,

Cory

 

[stangbanger856]

Sorry typo on my part , I ment "ohh and Cometic HGs" not ihh.

 

[stangbanger856]

The fuel hats are for thr returnless guys only. And I'm running 15PSI threw my stock B heads and intake with cometic HGs and ARP studs.

 

[harvboi05]

Sorry typo on my part , I ment "ohh and Cometic HGs" not ihh.

haha. i was like "ihh??"

The fuel hats are for thr returnless guys only.

not true, im running a forehat in my returned system. the division x stuff is an option away from being used in a returned system. a 98+ tank needs to be modified to use the hat, but "bolts" right in.

 

[stangbanger856]

haha. i was like "ihh??"



not true, im running a forehat in my returned system. the division x stuff is an option away from being used in a returned system. a 98+ tank needs to be modified to use the hat, but "bolts" right in.

Isn't the 96 and 97 different then the 98s?

 

[SFlaCobra]

for example I just got a set of 03 heads for $650 shipped with 10k mi on them.

c heads for 650??? WHERE!!!

 

[encasedmetal]

Originally I intended to run stage 3 comp camshafts when I was planning the build about 6 months ago. I was also planning a supercharger setup then and decided against it just because of the efficiency and adjustability of turbo. I like the idea of changing the boost level at the touch of a button.

As for not wanting C heads, it's mainly just cosmetic. I have powder coated valve covers and intake and I just really like the way it looks.

So far though my suggestions have been valve job, good springs, lhh?, and cometic head gaskets.

Any feedback on the livernois springs? And when you say valve job do you mean just reseating them and installing new seals and retainers? Would it be ok to stick with the factory valves? How many problems do B heads really have under boost? I've read countless topics on here over the year or so I've been a member but never seen a project as simple as mine. I am not even sure what type of boost levels I'm looking at to get to where I wanna be. The guy I was taking advice from lost my trust because he has been making quite a few mistakes recently. In my area, SC, there aren't many people knowledgeable about mustangs. I know I'm very close to Amazon Tuning but I have my reasons for not going there. Never will.

Sorry to ask so many questions but I just wanna do this right the first time and not have to go back to it.

Also, any insight on the Lethal Performance Division X fuel hats? Fuel system is another thing I'm lost on as to what I'll need to get to my goal.

Thanks again,

Cory

if staying with stockish cams- no need to swap springs or retainers. as far as valve job goes- should entail new seats/seals, making sure the guides are still good and checking and cleaning all valves. a valve job can also include but not require unshrouding of the valve area and opening of the combustion chamber area. I am right up the road in asheville NC, and my buddy Gabe lives in Greer SC if you need advice or help. sticking with the B heads is not a bad thing at all. if you were to go N/A- I would say to go with C heads for the torque curve. but being yours being unported, your B heads are excellent for FI applications. I run B heads with my F1a and I have zero problems with torque or making power

 

[harvboi05]

Isn't the 96 and 97 different then the 98s?

yes they are different. 96-97 cars have different tanks than 98 cars, but theyre all return style systems. the 98 cars have the 99+ style tanks and pump assemblies. you can run one of those billet fuel hats in a 99+ style tank swapped into your car if you have a 97 or older.

 

[Silver2003Cobra]

I'm curious, why going to the cast iron block, when you have a very desirable aluminum block right now?

 

[97 Nightmare]

I plan to stick with 100% stock cams. The reason I was asking about valve springs is because I've heard that with boost you want a stronger spring. The division x stuff by the way is made for return style systems. From what I've read, again no real life experience, dual walbros supply more fuel than dual ford pumps. That's why I wanted to leave that as an option.

Encasedmetal- I would love to get your email or something to directly correspond with you. Someone close with experience with 4v isn't common around here. Haha.

And as for cast iron vs teksid, always heard cast iron was stronger if you can deal with the weight, and it's only 80 lbs difference. Not enough to really bother me.

Any other fuel suggestions? And does anyone know of a company, preferably in the carolina area, that either sells or builds t45 trannies?

Thanks

Cory

 

[encasedmetal]

I plan to stick with 100% stock cams. The reason I was asking about valve springs is because I've heard that with boost you want a stronger spring. The division x stuff by the way is made for return style systems. From what I've read, again no real life experience, dual walbros supply more fuel than dual ford pumps. That's why I wanted to leave that as an option.

Encasedmetal- I would love to get your email or something to directly correspond with you. Someone close with experience with 4v isn't common around here. Haha.

And as for cast iron vs teksid, always heard cast iron was stronger if you can deal with the weight, and it's only 80 lbs difference. Not enough to really bother me.

Any other fuel suggestions? And does anyone know of a company, preferably in the carolina area, that either sells or builds t45 trannies?

Thanks

Cory

my email is [email protected] and I can answer bout every question you got bud. hit me up. got you covered on the tranny bit too

 

[encasedmetal]

here's some things in my last build that may give you an idea of things that will work for you
Engine Modifications:
2003 cobra iron block .20” over painted black (4.693L and 283.48ci)
Diamond 15cc custom pistons w/valve reliefs and w/top and skirt coating. Offset wrist pins.
Total Seal stainless top ring and Total Seal moly rings
SVT Manley rods w/ARP rod bolts
Forged cobra 8 bolt crank w/custom rekeyed snout
ATI Super Damper 6.79” 6 rib harmonic balancer
8” 8 rib outer Procharger crank serpentine pulley
ARP harmonic balancer bolt
ARP main bolts
Clevite main bearings
Clevite rod bearings
Race ported 96-98 cobra B heads w/ 5 angle valve job and machined for larger grade 8 cam tower hardware
Crower 68194-32 valve springs with stainless steel retainers
FRPP lifters and rollers, FRPP stainless intake valves, FRPP exhaust valves
ARP head studs
Lazer custom grind billet 4v Camshafts-241/[email protected] duration. 109/116 .530lift and custom keyways
ARP camshaft bolts
FRPP timing chain set and tensioners
Trick Flow adjustable crank gears and billet spacer
03/04 cobra crank trigger wheel
Cloyes adjustable intake cam gears
Fully Ported/smoothed/welded short runner 96-98 cobra intake modified for single blade TB, EGR delete and coil pack relocation.
Accufab polished 96-98 big oval throttle body
Frpp gaskets and seals (heads, front cover, valve covers, rear cover, oil pan, intake, imrcs)
Ford H.O. oil pump w/pickup
97 cobra oil windage tray
97 cobra oil pan
FRPP 9.0mm spark plug wires
NGK TR6 plugs .28” gap
FRPP black valve covers
Moroso breather catch can -8an inlet, ball outlet
Fragola -8an fittings and hose from passenger and driver side valve covers to catch can
Fragola -10an hose and fittings for IAC valve to inlet tube
SCT BA5000 slot style MAF
VMP MAF wiring extension/adaptor
VMP tuning slot MAF 83mm tube: tapped for meth inj., IAC recirculation, and IAT sensor.
Battery relocated to trunk with summit battery box
Moroso battery kill switch
Exhaust Modifications:
Kooks 1 ¾” x 3” stainless headers
Kooks 3”x 2.5” stainless O/R mid pipe
Borla stainless steel cat-back with welded pro-flo mufflers
EGR and SAI delete
Relocated exhaust hangers

Cooling Modifications:
Stewarts H.O. water pump
160* thermostat
Ron Davis aluminum racing radiator-relocated
AIS stage 1 methanol injection using HEET 99% meth
Redline coolant additive
Complete A/C system delete
07+ Shelby mustang coolant expansion tank, no coolant sensor
Stock 4.6 97’ cobra radiator fan

Drivetrain Modifications:
theT45source.com fully built billet/carbon fiber 26-spline input T45 transmission
SPEC steel flywheel
SPEC Stage 3+ clutch w/ SPEC stage 3+ pressure plate
SPEC throw-out and pilot bearing
ARP flywheel bolts
Steeda Tri-ax shifter
FRPP 31-spline rear differential with carbon fiber clutches
Moser 31-spline rear axles
FRPP 3.73 rear gear ratio
FRPP 3.73 speedometer sender gear for T45 transmission
New 8.8” bearings and seals
Chrome 8.8” rear differential cover
Moroso front wheel studs
ARP 3.5” wheel studs
FRPP FR500 stainless lug nuts



Fuel Modifications:
Glenn’s Performance 94-97 sumped fuel tank -10an outlet -6an return
Aeromotive adjustable bypass fuel regulator
Aeromotive 96-98 cobra fuel rails with modified brackets
Glenn’s Performance -10an 100 micron fuel filter
Weldon 1100-A fuel pump
Racetronix 79lb/hr EV1 high impedance fuel injectors
Painless wiring/relays
Fragola push lock fittings
Fragola -an fittings
Fragola 8000 -6an return line
Fragola 8000 -8an pump to rails line
Fragola 8000 -10an feed line

 

[97 Nightmare]

Dear lord. I believe my jaw just hit the floor. That's sick.

 

[encasedmetal]

I left out a bunch so if you have questions- let me know

 

[Turbo98]

I wopuld think no more than 15 PSI with stock B heads would get you to 600rwhp. It did on my car. At that boost level, if you're on a budget, I think the stock springs are ok if staying under 7,000 RPM's. Any more boost and the boost pressure is fighting the spring pressure to shut the intake valve quickly. Stick with the B's! The stock cams will take you to 1000rwhp too.

 

[97 Nightmare]

I wopuld think no more than 15 PSI with stock B heads would get you to 600rwhp. It did on my car. At that boost level, if you're on a budget, I think the stock springs are ok if staying under 7,000 RPM's. Any more boost and the boost pressure is fighting the spring pressure to shut the intake valve quickly. Stick with the B's! The stock cams will take you to 1000rwhp too.

If you don't mind telling where did your stock springs max out at? And I'm definitely sticking with the B heads. I think they are adequate for what I'm wanting. And at 15psi on what size snail? Thanks.

Cory