head gasket swap

[BigRigTech]

Ok, after driving my 01 for the summer I had a suspicion I may have a head gasket issue...The last few cold starts have blessed me with a coolant smell/smoke from the tail pipes.:rollseyes....It didn't overheat or anything but I've been slowly going down on coolant with no visable leaks other than the oil cooler. I'm going to bubble test the cooling system before I call a head gasket failure. Any other known issues for this scenario? I have a coolant leak at my oil cooler too (I bought the gaskets/seals for that already).

My 01 will be laid up for the winter shortly, I won't tear it apart until late winter/early spring as I hope to be working on the 32v swap into our 93 fox drag car build....I'll have the heads pressured tested, a valve grind and seals too. I'm an experienced engine builder, but this will be my first mod motor work of any fashion...Is there any good tools I could use for the cam timing? I have the SHM book....I thought I saw a tool for locking the cams or something to remove them????:shrug: Is it easier to take the engine out to do this or can it be done in the car with some patience? I'm NOT going to rebuild the bottom end with forged guts, no big plans for this car ( just lowering springs, diff bushings, new carpet) - just a good summer driver. I only put about 1200 miles on it this summer.

 

[Bmeagher]

The cam holding tools are only for stock 4v motors, holds the cams in stock locationl from the rear. Get Dave Lynn to P&P the heads while they're out. He works at Harley in Bayers Lake. He has a machine shop in his basement. He already has a adapter for flow bench for these heads, since he P&P heads for Dynomight's Marauder.

 

[BigRigTech]

The cam holding tools are only for stock 4v motors, holds the cams in stock locationl from the rear. Get Dave Lynn to P&P the heads while they're out. He works at Harley in Bayers Lake. He has a machine shop in his basement. He already has a adapter for flow bench for these heads, since he P&P heads for Dynomight's Marauder.

I just want a straight forward valve job and pressure test to make sure I fix the problem, I'm not putting money in this car for HP....I'd rather spend some on the drag car project and my real wish is to build a 40's/50's Ford or Merc lead sled in the near future so this may go to pay for that. I had my 63 Mercury for 12yrs, kinda missing the old steel now.....These 32V's are big money once you start modding stuff and I don't have it...LOL

 

[sleepin 4.6]

I just did a head swap on mine due to a bad head. I did not need any specific tools for the cams. The end of a socket tool fits perfectly in the end of the cam to hold it in case it spins. Hopefully head work is cheaper where you are. Here in cali every single shop wanted 600+ just to rebuild and install new parts on one head. I ended up buying a new head without cams and swapping mine onto it for 350.00.

 

[BigRigTech]

If they want to much I will lap them myself and replace the seals at home. I have a $100 machinists straight edge to check heads for warpage. Usually they are $4 per seat to cut and $4 per valve to grind....Plus what ever the seals cost. I can fab up some tools to hold the cams if needed. :beer:

 

[BigRigTech]

Today's cold start blessed me with the worst puff of smoke yet and it was sitting in my heated garage.:fm:....My old man was looking at me like "WTF?".......I guess I will be going into this engine this winter...Is it hard to pull the heads in the car or should I just pull the engine? I have a well equipped shop at home to do it either way but I would prefer to leave it in the car. Is there any other place that the coolant could get into the intake or plenum? Has anyone here had any luck with the chemical head gasket test kits for the cooling system? Normally on large diesels we just do a "bubble test" through the rad to look for compression leaks. I might pick up a inspection cam to see if I can figure out which cylinder has coolant leaking into it when the engine cools down.

 

[sleepin 4.6]

Today's cold start blessed me with the worst puff of smoke yet and it was sitting in my heated garage.:fm:....My old man was looking at me like "WTF?".......I guess I will be going into this engine this winter...Is it hard to pull the heads in the car or should I just pull the engine? I have a well equipped shop at home to do it either way but I would prefer to leave it in the car. Is there any other place that the coolant could get into the intake or plenum? Has anyone here had any luck with the chemical head gasket test kits for the cooling system? Normally on large diesels we just do a "bubble test" through the rad to look for compression leaks. I might pick up a inspection cam to see if I can figure out which cylinder has coolant leaking into it when the engine cools down.

You can't pull the heads with the engine in the car.

 

[BigRigTech]

You can't pull the heads with the engine in the car.

I was kinda wondering about that, it looked tight...Just as easy to put it on the stand and do it that way. Hopefully it's just a gasket and not a cracked head.:rollseyes....This episode has me missing my old, simple pushrod SBF's.

 

[MLS]

I have used the chemical head gasket treatments with some success; it lasted for a few months until I had the resources to pull the engine and fix it the right way.

 

[BigRigTech]

I can do the whole job myself, I have all the tools except for the timing stuff and I will buy that. I have a cherry picker and 2 engine stands in my garage. I won't tackle it until we get close to spring, I have other projects to work on and I need one bay free in my shop in case my plow truck breaks down through the winter.

 

[Black*Death]

You can't pull the heads with the engine in the car.

That is not true..I have heard it is a major PITA, but can be done.

Most people pull the engine because the extra "work" to pull the engine is much less frustrating then attempting to pull the heads while the engine is still in place.

I have never pulled the engine or heads on the car but search the SVTP forums to see opinions

 

[Dsg-shaker]

^what he said, I've done them in frame. Major pain in the arse, butit can be done. I think the hardest part I've encountered is the exhaust manifolds... But that was in a mark 8

 

[BigRigTech]

Pulling the engine is a pain in regards to lifting points. Ford used to put lifting rings on their engines but now they don't....I had to make one at work to lift a 6.0 diesel in an F550 to change the oil pan. I will likely have to make some brackets for the 32V too.

 

[01yellercobra]

I think you can order the pieces used to lift the motor. I lifted mine by the intake.

 

[BigRigTech]

I never thought about the intake, I could remove the top and make a lifting braket to bolt on there.....That's how I alway's lift small/big blocks.

 

[01yellercobra]

I ran tie down straps through the opening. If you make a plate it would probably be better to make it so it bolts to the heads. It's not much harder to take the lower off and it gives a lower starting point with the hoist.