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2013-14 Shelby GT500
Has anyone tried Mantic 9000 Triple disc clutch????
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<blockquote data-quote="Bad Company" data-source="post: 15821260" data-attributes="member: 141815"><p>The reason a clutch usually isn't releasing correctly causing the issue you're describing is the floater plates either aren't moving to create an air gap or the pressure plate isn't being pulled back far enough from the flywheel to create a large enough air gap.</p><p></p><p>I noticed in pictures of this clutch that the support posts for the pressure plate hat are also used as the drive pins for the floaters plates, I also noticed that the steel floaters have spring steel tabs that are used to facilitate movement of the floater plates to gain air gaps between the drive discs and floater. These features are there to create air gaps between the flywheel, the 2 floaters, pressure plate and the 3 drive discs. The air gaps between these parts is what is needed to have the clutch release successfully. </p><p></p><p>In my mind you either have a floater that isn't moving and is hanging on the drive posts when you push the clutch pedal down, or there isn't enough travel in the clutch throwout bearing assembly to pull the pressure plate far enough back to gain the necessary air gaps between the plates and drive discs for a clean release of the clutch assembly. </p><p></p><p>Most of these multiple disc clutches have a necessary measurements that need to be taken and the throwout bearing shimmed to the proper position in the bellhousing. If this wasn't done you can also have the problem you're describing. </p><p></p><p>There is an aftermarket clutch master cylinder available to move more fluid by volume to the throwout bearing. I believe this should be a manditory change for these 3 disc clutches also. Read the link below about some of the issues that he found with the stock pedal assembly flexing, again this directly hurts throwout bearing movement in the bellhousing due to less fluid movement out of the master cylinder by volume. </p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/project-large-bore-master-cylinder.1130794/#post-15501565" target="_blank">https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/project-large-bore-master-cylinder.1130794/#post-15501565</a></p><p></p><p>Keep in mind that if the transmission is hanging in a gear and the stick is hard or will not move with the clutch pedal on the floor then the clutch hasn't disengaged completely. For you to rev the engine to be able to move the stick you are adding load to the gears and then taking it away to move the stick, but at the same time you are actually slipping the clutch and creating a lot of heat in the drive discs and plates if the car isn't moving to the corresponding road speed of that gear and matching engine rpm. </p><p></p><p>You need to get this resolved quickly if you want the clutch to survive</p><p></p><p>I've got an ACE Manufacturing 3 disc and I've heard of a few similar problems with these also from others on here. Unfortunately my car isn't back together to be able to give any feedback on the Ace clutch myself.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bad Company, post: 15821260, member: 141815"] The reason a clutch usually isn't releasing correctly causing the issue you're describing is the floater plates either aren't moving to create an air gap or the pressure plate isn't being pulled back far enough from the flywheel to create a large enough air gap. I noticed in pictures of this clutch that the support posts for the pressure plate hat are also used as the drive pins for the floaters plates, I also noticed that the steel floaters have spring steel tabs that are used to facilitate movement of the floater plates to gain air gaps between the drive discs and floater. These features are there to create air gaps between the flywheel, the 2 floaters, pressure plate and the 3 drive discs. The air gaps between these parts is what is needed to have the clutch release successfully. In my mind you either have a floater that isn't moving and is hanging on the drive posts when you push the clutch pedal down, or there isn't enough travel in the clutch throwout bearing assembly to pull the pressure plate far enough back to gain the necessary air gaps between the plates and drive discs for a clean release of the clutch assembly. Most of these multiple disc clutches have a necessary measurements that need to be taken and the throwout bearing shimmed to the proper position in the bellhousing. If this wasn't done you can also have the problem you're describing. There is an aftermarket clutch master cylinder available to move more fluid by volume to the throwout bearing. I believe this should be a manditory change for these 3 disc clutches also. Read the link below about some of the issues that he found with the stock pedal assembly flexing, again this directly hurts throwout bearing movement in the bellhousing due to less fluid movement out of the master cylinder by volume. [URL]https://www.svtperformance.com/forums/threads/project-large-bore-master-cylinder.1130794/#post-15501565[/URL] Keep in mind that if the transmission is hanging in a gear and the stick is hard or will not move with the clutch pedal on the floor then the clutch hasn't disengaged completely. For you to rev the engine to be able to move the stick you are adding load to the gears and then taking it away to move the stick, but at the same time you are actually slipping the clutch and creating a lot of heat in the drive discs and plates if the car isn't moving to the corresponding road speed of that gear and matching engine rpm. You need to get this resolved quickly if you want the clutch to survive I've got an ACE Manufacturing 3 disc and I've heard of a few similar problems with these also from others on here. Unfortunately my car isn't back together to be able to give any feedback on the Ace clutch myself. [/QUOTE]
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Has anyone tried Mantic 9000 Triple disc clutch????
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