Has anyone tried Mantic 9000 Triple disc clutch????

[mvga1987]

Has anyome installed a Mantic 9000 Triple disc clutch on a 13/14 GT500 yet ?

I installed one on my 13 and I have about 300 miles already driving it slow for break in period of 500 miles and it gets stuck in gear some times and I have to force it out or rev the engine a few times for it to come out of gear. Usually it happens when driving on stop and go traffic.

If anyone else had this clutch please let me know.

Thanks!

 

[biminiLX]

No haven't seen one used yet but they look interesting.
Have you contacted Mantic?
Who installed?
-J

 

[mvga1987]

A friend of mine installed for me. He has a Shelby too and has dones at least 3 clutch installs before mine.
I called the guy that sell Mantic here in the US and he told me to put more miles on it .

 

[mvga1987]

No haven't seen one used yet but they look interesting.
Have you contacted Mantic?
Who installed?
-J

Mantic has very good reviews with Corvettes. With Shelbys I think I might be one of the first ones. The clutch handles 1500 lbs of torque.

 

[Bad Company]

The reason a clutch usually isn't releasing correctly causing the issue you're describing is the floater plates either aren't moving to create an air gap or the pressure plate isn't being pulled back far enough from the flywheel to create a large enough air gap.

I noticed in pictures of this clutch that the support posts for the pressure plate hat are also used as the drive pins for the floaters plates, I also noticed that the steel floaters have spring steel tabs that are used to facilitate movement of the floater plates to gain air gaps between the drive discs and floater. These features are there to create air gaps between the flywheel, the 2 floaters, pressure plate and the 3 drive discs. The air gaps between these parts is what is needed to have the clutch release successfully.

In my mind you either have a floater that isn't moving and is hanging on the drive posts when you push the clutch pedal down, or there isn't enough travel in the clutch throwout bearing assembly to pull the pressure plate far enough back to gain the necessary air gaps between the plates and drive discs for a clean release of the clutch assembly.

Most of these multiple disc clutches have a necessary measurements that need to be taken and the throwout bearing shimmed to the proper position in the bellhousing. If this wasn't done you can also have the problem you're describing.

There is an aftermarket clutch master cylinder available to move more fluid by volume to the throwout bearing. I believe this should be a manditory change for these 3 disc clutches also. Read the link below about some of the issues that he found with the stock pedal assembly flexing, again this directly hurts throwout bearing movement in the bellhousing due to less fluid movement out of the master cylinder by volume.

https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...e-bore-master-cylinder.1130794/#post-15501565

Keep in mind that if the transmission is hanging in a gear and the stick is hard or will not move with the clutch pedal on the floor then the clutch hasn't disengaged completely. For you to rev the engine to be able to move the stick you are adding load to the gears and then taking it away to move the stick, but at the same time you are actually slipping the clutch and creating a lot of heat in the drive discs and plates if the car isn't moving to the corresponding road speed of that gear and matching engine rpm.

You need to get this resolved quickly if you want the clutch to survive

I've got an ACE Manufacturing 3 disc and I've heard of a few similar problems with these also from others on here. Unfortunately my car isn't back together to be able to give any feedback on the Ace clutch myself.

 

[mvga1987]

The reason a clutch usually isn't releasing correctly causing the issue you're describing is the floater plates either aren't moving to create an air gap or the pressure plate isn't being pulled back far enough from the flywheel to create a large enough air gap.

I noticed in pictures of this clutch that the support posts for the pressure plate hat are also used as the drive pins for the floaters plates, I also noticed that the steel floaters have spring steel tabs that are used to facilitate movement of the floater plates to gain air gaps between the drive discs and floater. These features are there to create air gaps between the flywheel, the 2 floaters, pressure plate and the 3 drive discs. The air gaps between these parts is what is needed to have the clutch release successfully.

In my mind you either have a floater that isn't moving and is hanging on the drive posts when you push the clutch pedal down, or there isn't enough travel in the clutch throwout bearing assembly to pull the pressure plate far enough back to gain the necessary air gaps between the plates and drive discs for a clean release of the clutch assembly.

Most of these multiple disc clutches have a necessary measurements that need to be taken and the throwout bearing shimmed to the proper position in the bellhousing. If this wasn't done you can also have the problem you're describing.

There is an aftermarket clutch master cylinder available to move more fluid by volume to the throwout bearing. I believe this should be a manditory change for these 3 disc clutches also. Read the link below about some of the issues that he found with the stock pedal assembly flexing, again this directly hurts throwout bearing movement in the bellhousing due to less fluid movement out of the master cylinder by volume.

https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...e-bore-master-cylinder.1130794/#post-15501565

Keep in mind that if the transmission is hanging in a gear and the stick is hard or will not move with the clutch pedal on the floor then the clutch hasn't disengaged completely. For you to rev the engine to be able to move the stick you are adding load to the gears and then taking it away to move the stick, but at the same time you are actually slipping the clutch and creating a lot of heat in the drive discs and plates if the car isn't moving to the corresponding road speed of that gear and matching engine rpm.

You need to get this resolved quickly if you want the clutch to survive

I've got an ACE Manufacturing 3 disc and I've heard of a few similar problems with these also from others on here. Unfortunately my car isn't back together to be able to give any feedback on the Ace clutch myself.

Thanks for the reply, so what should I do know??? I doesnt happen every time I shift but it happens every time I drive the car. When it locks in gear it also makes a weird sound coming from the gear box or transmission...

 

[Bad Company]

Thanks for the reply, so what should I do know??? I doesnt happen every time I shift but it happens every time I drive the car. When it locks in gear it also makes a weird sound coming from the gear box or transmission...

The fact you have a strange noise occurring when it locks in gear dictates the removal of the transmission to inspect both the trans and clutch.

I'm suspect you'll find the clutch plates are going to show signs of excessive heat from slipping.

Now you're probably asking yourself how it is going to be slipping because it isn't while driving it. The problem is it isn't disengaging fully, so when you pull up to a stop with the clutch pedal to the floor with the car in gear the clutch has to slip to keep the car from moving forward. Try a test to see if this is actually what is happening and to what degree it is. Go to a perfectly flat area, come to a stop with the shifter locked up, take your foot off of the brake pedal.........does the car want to move on its own. If the car constantly tries to move with the clutch supposedly fully disengaged with the transmission in gear then you know it isn't disengaging fully.

The air gaps between the between the pressure plate, steel floater plates, flywheel and drive discs is a lot smaller then you may realize. I'd be willing to say it is less than 0.100" of an inch. Divide 0.1000" by how many air gaps(6 for a 3 disc clutch) and you come up with 0.016666" of air gap between each drive disc and anyone of the steel plates. If for any reason the pressure plate isn't pulled back fully you start having issues. For any reason a floater plate is cocking on its drive posts, you have a problem. The issue could be as simple as one of the spring leafs that facilitate movement of the floater plate to gain an air gap has broken off one of a floater plates. If this happens the floater may **** slightly.

If the noise that is occurring is while the car is stationary while locked in gear with the clutch pedal fully depressed then you are actually hearing it coming from the bellhousing. It is the clutch slipping. You may actually also be hearing a throwout bearing problem that isn't allowing the clutch to disengage fully.

so far everything you've posted would have me ripping the clutch out to inspect it. The guy from Mantic that told you to drive it was wrong. Maybe he is hoping that the drive discs will wear enough to gain an air gap for this problem to stop before you have a complete clutch failure. You are heading for a complete clutch failure in my opinion with everything you've posted to date. Unfortunately it is hard to keyboard diagnose, whereas with the car this should stick out like a real sore thumb.

Go to a flat parking lot and get it locked in gear to see if the car wants to creep along with supposedly no power to the driveline. If so the clutch isn't disengaging.

 

[biminiLX]

I agree with Kurt above.
Take it back to the guy who installed, let him drive it and I hope you both agree to remove and inspect before you hurt it further. At least they are rebuildable.
-J

 

[mvga1987]

The reason a clutch usually isn't releasing correctly causing the issue you're describing is the floater plates either aren't moving to create an air gap or the pressure plate isn't being pulled back far enough from the flywheel to create a large enough air gap.

I noticed in pictures of this clutch that the support posts for the pressure plate hat are also used as the drive pins for the floaters plates, I also noticed that the steel floaters have spring steel tabs that are used to facilitate movement of the floater plates to gain air gaps between the drive discs and floater. These features are there to create air gaps between the flywheel, the 2 floaters, pressure plate and the 3 drive discs. The air gaps between these parts is what is needed to have the clutch release successfully.

In my mind you either have a floater that isn't moving and is hanging on the drive posts when you push the clutch pedal down, or there isn't enough travel in the clutch throwout bearing assembly to pull the pressure plate far enough back to gain the necessary air gaps between the plates and drive discs for a clean release of the clutch assembly.

Most of these multiple disc clutches have a necessary measurements that need to be taken and the throwout bearing shimmed to the proper position in the bellhousing. If this wasn't done you can also have the problem you're describing.

There is an aftermarket clutch master cylinder available to move more fluid by volume to the throwout bearing. I believe this should be a manditory change for these 3 disc clutches also. Read the link below about some of the issues that he found with the stock pedal assembly flexing, again this directly hurts throwout bearing movement in the bellhousing due to less fluid movement out of the master cylinder by volume.

https://www.svtperformance.com/foru...e-bore-master-cylinder.1130794/#post-15501565

Keep in mind that if the transmission is hanging in a gear and the stick is hard or will not move with the clutch pedal on the floor then the clutch hasn't disengaged completely. For you to rev the engine to be able to move the stick you are adding load to the gears and then taking it away to move the stick, but at the same time you are actually slipping the clutch and creating a lot of heat in the drive discs and plates if the car isn't moving to the corresponding road speed of that gear and matching engine rpm.

You need to get this resolved quickly if you want the clutch to survive

I've got an ACE Manufacturing 3 disc and I've heard of a few similar problems with these also from others on here. Unfortunately my car isn't back together to be able to give any feedback on the Ace clutch myself.

If possible please give me a call so that I can better explain it.
415 424 1301 is my number.
Thank you.


Marcus

 

[biminiLX]

Sorry man, but it really needs to come out.
-J

 

[RazorGTP]

I have Mantic’s twin disk and absolutely love it! Only at 750rwhp and it’s great on the street and strip with no noise or issues. They’ve perfected the twin disk but not sure about the triple.

 

[Bad Company]

I agree with Kurt above.
Take it back to the guy who installed, let him drive it and I hope you both agree to remove and inspect before you hurt it further. At least they are rebuildable.
-J

I talked to him J, I think he understands that now. He sent me a video of the noise it is making when it isn't fully disengaging. From everything he told me on the phone it sounds like one of the floaters is cocking and dragging the drive discs as it only happens intermittently. The other possibility is one of the springs to move the floater has broken causing an issue.

 

[paluka21]

I have Mantic’s twin disk and absolutely love it! Only at 750rwhp and it’s great on the street and strip with no noise or issues. They’ve perfected the twin disk but not sure about the triple.

Are you able to slip the clutch at all?