Has anyone ever gone back to the stock cable adjuster?(interesting story)

[silvercoffin]

I ran into someone I met a whiel back at the track today. I told him how my clutch cable seems to loosen without the firewall adjuster turning. It doesnt always stay put but today the marks i made stayed at the top while the cable definetely loosened up.. After one run the cable loosens.

He told me that he had the same problem and that he put in a new cable and went back to the stock clutch adjuster under the pedal.

Has anyone ever heard of someone going back to the stock plastic junk under the pedal?

Has anyone ever had a cable loosen while the adjuster stayed in place?

I noticed on my way home that even if I pump the clutch the cable starts to loosen and I have free play in the pedal.

Should I go back to the stock clutch adjuster? Or should I just try a new cable and maybe a better adjutser like the fiore?

 

[silvercoffin]

...

I currently have a steeda adjuster and steeda quick release quadrant. I am using the original stock cable.

 

[SnakeBit]

Buy a Fiore adjuster and new cable. After removing the oem quadrant, I cannot fathom how to put it back in unless I took the whole pedal assembly off of the car (and I don't even want to think about doing that). The Fiore will stay in place.

 

[silvercoffin]

...

Yeah thats exactly what I thought i should do. He said it was real hard to put it back on. He had to take out the seat remove the pedal assembly i think...and something about dissconecting the steering column i think he said..


I ordered the OEM cable from some site that sold the oem cable without the stock plastic parts on it at the firewall.. My only concern is that it looks as if it isnt coming with that metal bracket that bolts to the car. Does it need to be bolted to the side of the engine bay or can I let it be loose?

 

[silvercoffin]

...

turns out the cable I ordered is the Maximum Motorsports OEM cable but they modifiy it somehow to work only with their firewall adjuster.

I cancelled the order and got a cable from the dealership and the fiore adjuster.

I cant wait to get it on the car and see what happens.

I am hoping that it isnt too hard to get the cable ot of the trans where the white piece slides into the trans. Dont know how you get that off.

Otherwise seems like changing the cable will be easy. the new one came with the metal bracket that mounts to the engine bay.

 

[Tractionless1]

Stock cable, adjuster, clutch, etc. 22k miles no issues. I don't see why these things are switched out if there is no problem. Yea if it breaks, loosens etc. ok but why go from a perfectly working stock system to aftermarket?

 

[SnakeBit]

When you install the cable, make sure it is centered on the quadrant (actually, the quadrant needs to be centered on the cable). It difficult to see, but you can put your hand up there and feel it. If they are not centered, the cable can chafe and eventually break. I used different thicknesses 1/2" washers from the hardware store to shim it on both sides.

When you first adjust it, with your hand on the pedal, adjust so there is about 1/4" - 1/2" of free play in the pedal. Then make final adjustments to suit your preferences from there. I do it in the driveway or a parking lot with the hood up, so the clutch starts to catch at a point I'm happy with.

Good luck.

 

[silvercoffin]

...

"Stock cable, adjuster, clutch, etc. 22k miles no issues. I don't see why these things are switched out if there is no problem. Yea if it breaks, loosens etc. ok but why go from a perfectly working stock system to aftermarket?"


I agree with you. I did have problems shiftign and my cable aslways came loose. I switched the quadrant and firewall adjuster but never changed cables. Now after buying a new trans and still having problems, I am afriad that he whole problem may have been the cable from the start. I havent put the new one in yet but some how my cable comes loose after one run or even when you pump the clutch pedal a few times. My firewall adjuster is not turning..not loosening so it has to be something with the cable...or more likely the plastic that surrounds the cable...thats what the adjuster actually tugs on to adjust it.

 

[Lethalchem]

I've battled with these issues for years. I've had the cable snap like described above, and I currently have to regularly readjust the slack out of the clutch about once a week or so because it slips, also like stated above. Will the Fiore honestly fix this? I've just resigned myself to my fate up to this point, but will consider yet another quadrant swap if this one is different in some way.

 

[jm@ReischePerf]

why go from a perfectly working stock system to aftermarket?

I think a lot of people do it because the stock automatic adjuster does not keep enough tension on the cable once the clutch starts to wear. When this happens the car won't shift very well because the clutch doesn't get fully disengaged. The solution is to mod the stock adjuster so that it can't auto adjust, but I think few people know about this.

 

[silvercoffin]

..

The Fiore does nothing different than any other firewall adjuster. It was a wast eof money for me. My steeda with no lock was not spinning . The fiore cant spin.. but they all work the same way.

My fiore and new cable did nothing to help my shifting trouble at high RPMs went to the track and missed 3rd and 4th one or the other every time. I can only shift if I granny shift it. My car wasnt like this when it was new.

SO I have spent thousands on

spec 3+ clutch and flywheel (just to see if shifting problems were clutch related

RPM TRANS and spec 2 clutch with new insert fo flywheel

New adjuster
new cable

I also had some check out the shift fork play and they said it seems fine.

Im at a loss right now but might try a new clutch and flywheel one more time next season and then thats it...sell the car i guess

 

[cmperfmnce]

How much play do you have in the pedal? Be careful not to "over adjust" the cable. Sounds like you are bottoming out the diaphragm. This WILL cause the cable to stretch, and make shifting very difficult.
Do you have the pedal freeplay kit?http://www.steeda.com/products/steeda_adjustable_pedal_stop.php
If not, get one, lower your pedal height and readjust your cable.

 

[silvercoffin]

...

AHHH

im ready to go back to ford and get my stock qudrant put back in..

I adjusted it so that here is no play but 1/2 inch flex at the fork. JDM Engineering guys checked it out and adjusted it the same way...

I am going to get a stock ford flywheel and clutch installed in the spring and see what happens.

 

[Lethalchem]

The Fiore does nothing different than any other firewall adjuster. It was a wast eof money for me. My steeda with no lock was not spinning . The fiore cant spin.. but they all work the same way.

My fiore and new cable did nothing to help my shifting trouble at high RPMs went to the track and missed 3rd and 4th one or the other every time. I can only shift if I granny shift it. My car wasnt like this when it was new.

SO I have spent thousands on

spec 3+ clutch and flywheel (just to see if shifting problems were clutch related

RPM TRANS and spec 2 clutch with new insert fo flywheel

New adjuster
new cable

I also had some check out the shift fork play and they said it seems fine.

Im at a loss right now but might try a new clutch and flywheel one more time next season and then thats it...sell the car i guess

Sounds like we've had the same issues. There's something up with some of these cars where shifting is concerned. I have the high rpm shift problems too, but mine has done it from day one when everything was stock but the mufflers. There's no way to shift my car other than granny shifting. Each gear shift is a *clunk-clunk* two step process. It's the only thing that's ever bothered me about this car. I may go with an automatic one day to rid myself of this BS forever.

 

[TrickStang37]

mine has never had a problem shifting. Try the stock quadrant mod, its in the How To section, its easy.