Where are you fishing your 12v to the battery though to get it from the engine to the passenger compartment?
Guys that have added an aftermarket amp...
- Thread starter mikestoyz
- Start date
I can go out and snap a pic tomorrow but I removed the passenger side fender liner and made a small hole in the rubber grommet where the factory wiring enters the cabin near the passenger fuse box.
edit: Found the photo I used when I installed mine. Taken from here.
edit: Found the photo I used when I installed mine. Taken from here.
Last edited:
I can go out and snap a pic tomorrow but I removed the passenger side fender liner and made a small hole in the rubber grommet where the factory wiring enters the cabin near the passenger fuse box.
edit: Found the photo I used when I installed mine. Taken from here.
OH YES! Okay, I saw that from inside by the fusebox, but couldnt figure out where it landed in the engine bay. I saw only one philips headed pin on the fender liner. Also saw 2 push pins on the lower under door trim piece. What else must be removed? Did you have to take off the wheel? or just turn?
Just saw the edit, Ill check your link!
Your link is PERFECT! I really do appreciate you documenting that!
I sure will!
I used the same area
That right up was so dead on that there is no need for more pictures. However, see the 2 holes at the top in that picture? Thats where you can feed your wire to your battery through instead of running all of the way to the front.
And to get 12v accessory to trigger the amp, find your fuse box. The fuse just above the silver flasher(?) on the left at the very bottom. I just slid the wire into the slot with the fuse. No results yet as the harness I tried to use to run into the high input side of the amp doesnt work, so Im off to the store to get a high/low converter. Probably finish it off tomorrow.
And to get 12v accessory to trigger the amp, find your fuse box. The fuse just above the silver flasher(?) on the left at the very bottom. I just slid the wire into the slot with the fuse. No results yet as the harness I tried to use to run into the high input side of the amp doesnt work, so Im off to the store to get a high/low converter. Probably finish it off tomorrow.
Since I removed the sound tube I just went through that hole with a grommet.
Im thinking you probably didnt have to remove the wheel to get access to remove the splash shield, but it really was pretty easy. Plus it shortened the amount of wire I had to use and the 12V accessory tap would just run along side of it.
My multimeter went out on me a month ago and havent bought a new one. I was struggling to find a fuse with accessory/on power only. That wasted too much time and then needing a speaker to line converter. Ill finish in the morning.
None of that is needed. I went straight through the firewall, down the door, under the rear seats, and bam right into the trunk. As for a remote turn on if you get a good oem integration unit it will have a remote turn on for you. Until I build my carputer I'm using a Audiocontrol LC2i
Make sure you use some RTV around the grommet where you run the 12v wire through to keep the water out of the cabin. Either on the cabin side or under the hood. It's just cheap insurance.
That wire is so tight, I needed to spray lube on it to pass through the grommet. But, I did use 4 gauge, 8 gauge might be a different story
Okay, I installed 8 year old cheap DUAL brand amp I had been using for a few years. It says 380 watts on it...probably a true 175 bridged or so. Hooked to a 12" passive bazooka. In my previous car I tested 3 JL audio 10" subs vs this bazooka. The bazooka had the same output at 2 ohms as my JL setup at 3 ohms. Maybe not as much down at 30hz, but 40hz and above was smooth.
This bazooka really hits! Low pass crossover set at 50hz and it rolls off perfect to accomodate the factory radio boominess of 80-100 hz even with the bass at 0.
Added some BOSS brand tweeters I got from amazon for $10. Wow, I made the base system sound simply outstanding. I am satisfied. And I am picky, but felt I could get away with the stuff I used and be happy. Ive built many audio projects and feel I have accomplished what I set out to do in the first place, plus some.
One thing about the mustang seats as they really shake with the bass. Very cool feeling.
This bazooka really hits! Low pass crossover set at 50hz and it rolls off perfect to accomodate the factory radio boominess of 80-100 hz even with the bass at 0.
Added some BOSS brand tweeters I got from amazon for $10. Wow, I made the base system sound simply outstanding. I am satisfied. And I am picky, but felt I could get away with the stuff I used and be happy. Ive built many audio projects and feel I have accomplished what I set out to do in the first place, plus some.
One thing about the mustang seats as they really shake with the bass. Very cool feeling.
Ill let you hear mine and sure will!
Users who are viewing this thread
