I wonder why they did that. Seems like a dangerous thing to do.
Gun Porn Thread!!!
- Thread starter Glacius
- Start date
I just realized that I've never posted any of my firearms.
Top to bottom.
18" Stag 3G with Noveske 16.7" NSR rail and Geissele S3G trigger.
14.5" Noveske Gen 1 Afghan SS barrel Surefire socom brake, Geissele Hi-Speed NM DMR.
Springfield Armory Stainless Loaded, Wilson Combat short trigger, extended mag release, S&A Magwell, 3.5 LB trigger.
10.5" Noveske Gen 2 CQB CHF barrel, Noveske KX-5 pig, Geissele SSA-E
HK P30-L, HK45
Top to bottom
Savage 10TR with Bushnell ET6500 4.5-30x50 The 10TR will be going into an MDT LSS-XL chassis.
Savage 10BA with Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP
Springfield Armory M1A National Match
Polytech (Norinco) 18.6" M305
Top to bottom.
18" Stag 3G with Noveske 16.7" NSR rail and Geissele S3G trigger.
14.5" Noveske Gen 1 Afghan SS barrel Surefire socom brake, Geissele Hi-Speed NM DMR.
Springfield Armory Stainless Loaded, Wilson Combat short trigger, extended mag release, S&A Magwell, 3.5 LB trigger.
10.5" Noveske Gen 2 CQB CHF barrel, Noveske KX-5 pig, Geissele SSA-E
HK P30-L, HK45
Top to bottom
Savage 10TR with Bushnell ET6500 4.5-30x50 The 10TR will be going into an MDT LSS-XL chassis.
Savage 10BA with Vortex Viper PST 6-24x50 FFP
Springfield Armory M1A National Match
Polytech (Norinco) 18.6" M305
Very Nice collection!!! I have a Savage 22 Bolt gun. Love the quality. I am thinking about getting their 338 Lapua.
You have any problems with your EXPS? Mine drifted over 40 MOA in a 40 degree F temp shift. Found out there was a recall and got a refund.
You have any problems with your EXPS? Mine drifted over 40 MOA in a 40 degree F temp shift. Found out there was a recall and got a refund.
Christmas came a little early.
Christmas came a little early.
Cal?
I have a couple of Savage 22 bolt guns also.
I have a BSEV and a TRR-SR which is my trainer for the 10BA.
They are still accepting returns but mine holds zero very well so I'm keeping it.
I participate in 3-4 CQB clinics per year and I would have noticed drift since we have shot from anywhere around 32F all the way to 100F.
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Many PDs practice one hand reloading but most of those methods do involve hooking the rear sight on something to slingshot the slide.
Good deal Thump. Glad to hear it. The EOTechs are by far my favorite HWS. I'll buy another one, eventually.
300 Ultra Mag
The funny thing is, my wife does something like this every year. She'll go out and buy my Christmas present and then she can't wait to give it to me. She will ask if I want it now or on Christmas day and I'll say "I'm fine waiting". Then, 5 minutes later she asks again. This goes on until I just give in.
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Do you reload? The problem with 300RUM is that many factory rounds are so hot they expand the primer pockets to the point that the brass is scrap.
The other problem is that it's a barrel burner. Accuracy begins to drop off between 900-1200 rounds.
It's a great hunting or problem solving rifle. Its not the rifle you bring out every week and fire off 50 rounds.
I think I may have to start.
I had been talking about wanting a long range rifle for awhile now and the wife just committed me to it. I have a lot of questions since this is my first foray into this realm. For example, can I shoot any other round (win mag?) in this rifle? What's the best way to get it sighted in etc. At $2.50-3.00/round, I won't be slinging rounds down range like I do with my AR. On top of that, the range I belong to tops out at 200 yds. I think I may have to find a longer range.
You can only shoot the type of cartridge the rifle is designed for.
Be sure of what the caliber is before buying ammunition because it is not returnable.
Before zeroing the rifle ensure that all fasteners are torqued to specification. I use blue Loctite on all screws.
I am generalizing but typical specs are as follows:
Check with individual manufacturers to be certain
Receiver to scope base/scope rail 20-25 inch pounds.
Scope ring halves 15-17 inch pounds.
Scope ring to scope base/ scope rail 65 inch pounds.
Place rifle on front and rear bags or bipod and rear bag so that the rifle doesn't need you to hold it to stay in place.
Before I ever fire a live round I sit down at the bench or lay out on my shooting mat in the prone position and I position myself to shoot.
I start at the lowest magnification and work my way up since the eyebox tightens up as you increase magnification.
As soon as I lay my cheek on the rifle the fit must be perfect. If I need to adjust my head up, down, front, or back I move the scope or add/remove foam padding so that I get a repeatable shooting position.
You can see some of the rifles below have foam and packing tape on the buttstock.
we would lay down for 10 minutes behind the rifle to ensure proper fit.
We would then make adjustments and repeat the process.
Once we were satisfied we would increase the magnification which would tighten up the eyebox and do it all over again.
Once the rifle is adjusted for you it stays that way forever.
I will typically begin at 100y for a rifle with a scope in MOA or 100M for a scope in miliradians.
I use a large target in the 20"W x 40" H range.
I remove the bolt from the rifle and bore sight it to the center of the target.
I then look through the scope to see if the crosshairs appear to be near the center of the target.
I typically dial the scope to the center of its adjustments if the rail has no elevation built in.
If there is 20 MOA of adjustment built into a scope rail I will adjust the scope down an additional 20 MOA.
In theory your crosshairs should be near the center of the target.
The goal is to get on paper.
Take your first shot and see where it lands.
If you are confident that you didn't pull the shot then measure how far off of center you are.
For example if your shot is 6" left of center and 3" low you will need to dial 6MOA right and 3MOA up.
1 MOA= 1.047" @ 100Y we call it 1"
1 MOA= 2.094" @ 200Y
1 MOA= 3.141" @ 300Y
1MRAD= 10cm @100M
1MRAD= 20cm @200M
1MRAD=30cm @300M
If you are confident that you have accurately zeroed your rifle take down all the information you can on the ammunition used.
Brand, type, bullet weight, type, velocity rated on the box.
Also record any environmental conditions you canget ahold of such as altitude, barometric pressure, temperature, relative humidity.
You will be able to use these in your ballistic calculator later on for more precise long range shooting.
Follow the manufacturers instructions to zero your turrets, and set zero stop if your scope is equipped with one.
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Excellent, thank you for the info. Hope to get to the range in the next day or 2.
That was an excellent write up.You can only shoot the type of cartridge the rifle is designed for.
Be sure of what the caliber is before buying ammunition because it is not returnable.
Before zeroing the rifle ensure that all fasteners are torqued to specification. I use blue Loctite on all screws.
I am generalizing but typical specs are as follows:
Check with individual manufacturers to be certain
Receiver to scope base/scope rail 20-25 inch pounds.
Scope ring halves 15-17 inch pounds.
Scope ring to scope base/ scope rail 65 inch pounds.
Place rifle on front and rear bags or bipod and rear bag so that the rifle doesn't need you to hold it to stay in place.
Before I ever fire a live round I sit down at the bench or lay out on my shooting mat in the prone position and I position myself to shoot.
I start at the lowest magnification and work my way up since the eyebox tightens up as you increase magnification.
As soon as I lay my cheek on the rifle the fit must be perfect. If I need to adjust my head up, down, front, or back I move the scope or add/remove foam padding so that I get a repeatable shooting position.
You can see some of the rifles below have foam and packing tape on the buttstock.
we would lay down for 10 minutes behind the rifle to ensure proper fit.
We would then make adjustments and repeat the process.
Once we were satisfied we would increase the magnification which would tighten up the eyebox and do it all over again.
Once the rifle is adjusted for you it stays that way forever.
I will typically begin at 100y for a rifle with a scope in MOA or 100M for a scope in miliradians.
I use a large target in the 20"W x 40" H range.
I remove the bolt from the rifle and bore sight it to the center of the target.
I then look through the scope to see if the crosshairs appear to be near the center of the target.
I typically dial the scope to the center of its adjustments if the rail has no elevation built in.
If there is 20 MOA of adjustment built into a scope rail I will adjust the scope down an additional 20 MOA.
In theory your crosshairs should be near the center of the target.
The goal is to get on paper.
Take your first shot and see where it lands.
If you are confident that you didn't pull the shot then measure how far off of center you are.
For example if your shot is 6" left of center and 3" low you will need to dial 6MOA right and 3MOA up.
1 MOA= 1.047" @ 100Y we call it 1"
1 MOA= 2.094" @ 200Y
1 MOA= 3.141" @ 300Y
1MRAD= 10cm @100M
1MRAD= 20cm @200M
1MRAD=30cm @300M
If you are confident that you have accurately zeroed your rifle take down all the information you can on the ammunition used.
Brand, type, bullet weight, type, velocity rated on the box.
Also record any environmental conditions you canget ahold of such as altitude, barometric pressure, temperature, relative humidity.
You will be able to use these in your ballistic calculator later on for more precise long range shooting.
Follow the manufacturers instructions to zero your turrets, and set zero stop if your scope is equipped with one.
338 LM is rough on the wallet to feed if you aren't reloading but damn if it isn't a blast to shoot. Highly recommend picking one up if you can swing it.
My modest milsurp collection; only fairly recently been bitten by that bug so have a few more on the list I want to add in future.
1941 Ishevsk SVT-40
1942 Finnish VKT M39 Mosin
1942 Swiss K31
"No date" (1955+) Unissued/unrefurbed/(still)unfired? Tula SKS
1941 Ishevsk SVT-40
1942 Finnish VKT M39 Mosin
1942 Swiss K31
"No date" (1955+) Unissued/unrefurbed/(still)unfired? Tula SKS
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