GT-500 Bound but have ??'s

[98expo]

I am in the market for a GT-500. I originally was looking at the 07-09's mainly because of price. The first gens to me look good, but look better with a set of wheels and lowered. And I think the '10+ look better out of the box.

So right now I am torn between the '10 and the '11+ models. I know the newer ones have some differences (block, svtpp, etc). But I have some questions.

What year is better for mods? I plan on just the basic bolt-ons up front. What year did ford start monitoring the Flashes/Tunes?

This will be just a weekend toy for me. To be honest probally wont ever see the track. I have read that the 100+lbs difference can be felt when driving. What other benefits does the '11+ offer?

Of course I would like to have a cheaper payment if possible, but I do not want to kick my self in the butt for not getting the newer one if there are dramatic differences.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Jeremy

 

[03reptile]

I am in the market for a GT-500. I originally was looking at the 07-09's mainly because of price. The first gens to me look good, but look better with a set of wheels and lowered. And I think the '10+ look better out of the box.

So right now I am torn between the '10 and the '11+ models. I know the newer ones have some differences (block, svtpp, etc). But I have some questions.

What year is better for mods? I plan on just the basic bolt-ons up front. What year did ford start monitoring the Flashes/Tunes?

This will be just a weekend toy for me. To be honest probally wont ever see the track. I have read that the 100+lbs difference can be felt when driving. What other benefits does the '11+ offer?

Of course I would like to have a cheaper payment if possible, but I do not want to kick my self in the butt for not getting the newer one if there are dramatic differences.

Thanks for the help in advance.

Jeremy

Jeremy, I've had an 03, 07, and now a 11. The 11 is by far the best of the three. For being "bolt-ons" friendly, the 07 thru 09 would probably be your best bet. I think the computer systems in the 2010/2011 MY's are somewhat less amenable to tune changes. With that said, I'd still go with the 11 if your budget allows. The all aluminum engine transfomed the 11 into the best Mustang I've ever had (and I've had a lot of them!) I think you'll live to regret not getting an 11; its that much better then the 10; (I've driven the 10). I don't have the SVT performance package on mine and am glad I chose not to get it, as its a little too stiff for my driving needs. I drive mine as you indicate you will drive yours. I'd definitely get a 2011. Its a great all around car and the stock sounding exhaust note is to die for. I feel like Steve McQueen every time I turn the key! Good luck in your decision!

 

[98expo]

Thank you for the reply. I am just not sure which one to go with. Even though stock for stock I think the '10+ is better looking I still think the 07-09's which some small changes look just as good....and they would be cheaper..

Oh the decisions!!

 

[shelbyjeff]

I have the 2010 and love it it's everything I could ask for and much more.I know the 2011 has a aluminum block but the iron block is tried and true to me that is piece of mind.All I can tell you is too each there own.They are all great cars and not a chevy or dodge will do for me.

 

[oldlugs]

...I know the 2011 has a aluminum block but the iron block is tried and true to me that is piece of mind...

While I wouldn't mind switching to an aluminum block sometime in the distant future (but one with iron sleeves), the iron block also gives me peace of mind... Even though it is 100 pounds heavier.
As for looks of the '07-'09, compared to '10 and later; I'm still happy.

 

[BOD89LX]

I will say the 11+ as it has just about everything you need out of the box, less weight more HP, larger heat exchanger, better suspension(No wheel hop) rides like a dream, gets 22-23 mph when driven easy also with a pulley and a tune you have a mid to low 11 second car. If its in your budget its hard to beat all of that and still have a factory warranty.

 

[Synister500]

I'm a 2011 SVTPP owner and have to say it has a more quality feel and hands down the best mustang I have ever owned. The 120lbs off the nose made the car a 51/49 weight balance so yes it is very noticeable. My friend who has a 09 is jealous of how much better mine handles than his. Don't be weary of the aluminum block, it is a wet sump design of the Ford GT block. You want more piece of mind; the 2011+ now have knock sensors. If the slightest bit of pinging (due to bad fuel ect) is seen the computer is going to pull timing to keep it safe. I love the electric steering, and the suspension is phenomenal. It's a little stiffer but that supports my driving style better. It's not as "bolt on" friendly because Ford was able to get more aggressive with the tuning because of the knock sensors. I'd say buy a 2011 get a stock looking 2.59 pulley and tune from VMP and love the hell out of your car.

BJ

 

[98expo]

I have the 2010 and love it it's everything I could ask for and much more.I know the 2011 has a aluminum block but the iron block is tried and true to me that is piece of mind.All I can tell you is too each there own.They are all great cars and not a chevy or dodge will do for me.

Thanks everyone. Also the iron block is cheaper to replace vs the aluminum if I get crazy and put too much power to it...lol.

 

[whiplash920]

I have the 2010 and love it it's everything I could ask for and much more.I know the 2011 has a aluminum block but the iron block is tried and true to me that is piece of mind.All I can tell you is too each there own.They are all great cars and not a chevy or dodge will do for me.

i agree - have driven an 11 and i did feel a difference in handling, but not as much as some indicate. i was very happy buying my 10'. aluminum block is pretty safe - iron better. ill add power to make up for the 102 lb diff (not 120 lb like someone stated incorrectly).

Thanks everyone. Also the iron block is cheaper to replace vs the aluminum if I get crazy and put too much power to it...lol.

you can safely put over a 1000 hp to that motor without much worry - how much power are you planning that you are looking into replacing the motor already????

 

[Synister500]

ill add power to make up for the 102 lb diff (not 120 lb like someone stated incorrectly).

102 lbs is just the block. The total weight savings on the nose is a 120 lbs just as I stated.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/front-page-news-143/688244-2011-gt500-review.html

Also, your not going to push 1000 rwhp through the stock iron or aluminum block, at least not very long. The rods are the weakest link in this motor and will put a nice window in either one at that level.

 

[Black Sex]

I was in the same delima. After reading some threads I decided to find a '11 or newer. I still think it would be nice to save $10K and get an older one. But the look just aren't there for me.

 

[98expo]

Thanks Everyone!

I am not sure if there is any better deals out there but so far this is what I have found:

2011 Black SVTPP under 5k miles for $45K.
2010 Nav. under 5k miles for 40k.

Again I am looking for one with low miles 10k or under. I looked on cars.com, autotrader, ebay, and every where else...

 

[TaraFirma]

Whatever you decide. Don't settle get what you want. You wont be disappointed whichever you get.

 

[98expo]

you can safely put over a 1000 hp to that motor without much worry - how much power are you planning that you are looking into replacing the motor already????

Well not that much anytime soon, but if anything ever did happen the MMR shortblocks for $2,999 looks very appealing

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...rtblocks-mmr-aluminum-iron-block-options.html

 

[98expo]

Whatever you decide. Don't settle get what you want. You wont be disappointed whichever you get.

Very true. I am very happy to be in a position I can afford one. I think I would be happy with either at this point. The styling is what catches my eye and when I get chances to drive it the 500+ hp doesnt hurt either.

 

[Daffy]

My recommendation is if you're looking at a 10 vs 11, go with the '11, hands down. Better cooling (granted an aftermarket HE will make huge improvements, but the stock improvement in '11 is significant in my epxerience at the road course doing 25+ minute sessions, heat soak is reasonable versus crushing), lighter weight, extra yr of shake down from new model, etc. Your post says just bolt ons up front, if that's what you want, then you're set with either yr. Not sure what all the posts are about the alum block as a weakness .. like the on eposter above correctly notes, the rods are the weakness, but for bolt ons & a tune, no worries. If you were looking to go balls out on a budget I'd recommend an 07-09.

For prices, they seem OK to me, I paid $48K new for my '11, with NAV & glass roof. So if that $45 is asking & you can go more like $42-43K, that'd be good IMO, but I'm a cheap basterd. For SVTPP, if you're really not going to go crazy or track the car then I'd try to get one with SVTPP, it's an awesome factory setup. I didn't get it because I road race my car & knew I'd be changing the wheels, tires, suspension to my liing for track duty anyway - but I weren't I'd have gone SVTPP.

Good luck & enjoy the shopping, bottomline you can't go wrong. Like others posted just make sure you don't settle on color, year, options, whatever, get what you like, it's your hard earned $.

Dave.

 

[Imatk]

If you like the looks of the 10-11 better then IMO it's a complete no-brainer...get the 11.

The block alone is worth it.

I have the SVTPP suspension on my car '07 GT500 and it does NOT ride rough at all. It's very smooth compared to pretty much any other aftermarket spring and shock assembly.

It is stiffer than the regular suspension, but the regular suspension is way too soft if you ask me.

 

[BigDan]

Yes it's worth it. Ford gave 2011 owner's over $10k in upgrades over the 2010 model and that's even without the SVT PP. You can get brand new 2011's for $46k and used for $42k. A few dealers on Team Shelby are letting 2012's at X plan pricing in the classifieds.

Standard features new for 2011+

*Aluminum block
*Electric steering
*Silver finish on SC
*Blue power coat valve covers
*Improved exhaust manifolds
*Larger exhaust diameter
*H pipe vs 2010 X pipe
*Painted rear end
*Finned aluminum diff cover
*Improved brake cooling
*Auto start ignition
*40% larger inter cooler
*HID's standard
*No gas guzzler tax
*Flip up/ down rear headrests
* Improved under body aero dynamics
*Orange antifreeze
*Bigger faster more complex computer
*Wideband o2's?
*New colors
*Improved suspension, fixed the 2010's wheel hop.
*10 horsepower more but seems to make more like 20whp
*Factory "Boost a pump" for the fuel pump
*"My key" for limiting speed and TC for certain keys
*Different cam part numbers, some say its the Ford GT cams due to the 2011's making peak whp at redline
*Optional glass roof
*Blind spot side view mirrors.
*extra sound deadening material
* lighted vanity mirrors for 2012
* built in garage door opener for 2012

+ everything that's in the SVT PP like

19 and 20" light weight forged wheels
Goodyear G2 tires that pull 1.0g same tires as Z06
Lowered suspension
Larger sway bars
Improved shocks/ struts
3.73 rear end
White shift knob
Lemans stripes

I recommend you take a 2010 and a 2011(PP) out for a thorough test drive and maybe you wont need or miss all the 2011 upgrades.

 

[98expo]

Yes it's worth it. Ford gave 2011 owner's over $10k in upgrades over the 2010 model and that's even without the SVT PP. You can get brand new 2011's for $46k and used for $42k. I few dealers on Team Shelby are letting 2012's at X plan pricing in the classifieds.
.

Where do you guys find these deals? Do these cars have 10k+ miles on them?

 

[Synister500]

Where do you guys find these deals? Do these cars have 10k+ miles on them?

I drove from KY to TX to get mine. Found it on AutoTrader. 2011 GT500 SVTPP with 8600 miles. I was out the door for 38k. But I did have to pay my taxes back home in KY.