Grimlin Issues - P1114

[tuscani66]

Hi,

I've read countless threads, threads pointing to other threads, PU information finally decided to ask. I've been browsing this forum for almost 4 months because of my codes and finally decided to join - sorry, big fan just not much of a talker and definitely no mechanic so I know I couldn't offer much advice.

Now, again, not much of a mechanic but I do damn near all of my work, and I am savy around cars.

Here is my issues:

about 5 months ago I kept getting a P1114 code, reset, it'll come back on spirited drives (only drove the car a couple times a month). Finally it over heat on me. Burped the system, reset the code, burped again - never had it over heat and no codes for a while but didn't really spirit drive.

3 months ago I got P1114, P0171 and P0174 (lean bank 1 and 2), figured vaccuum leak somewhere. Replaced the IAT2, replaced spark plugs with NGK 6 and gapped to .035 (I think, running 15# boost so I'm pretty sure that is what I read to gap at) and found this:

From here:

Replaced with this hose found at O'Reilly for a Toyota Mini Van:

Was hoping that fixed my issues, definitely starts better but today the P1114 came back and so did the P0171 (Lean bank1).

Letting the car cool off now and then will pull out spark plugs to see how they look. I did replace the FRPS 3 months ago as I read that sometimes can cause neighboring codes.

I appreciate the help in advance guys! Thanks.

BTW, I do not have a datalogger and I wanted to iron out the issues before I get a retune - though sometimes I think my tune is giving me issues.

Any local guys I welcome to come to my house, give a new set of eyes & ears and brainstorm.

At least it looks good sitting...

Keoni.

 

[hotcobra03]

first...pull on harness easy..see if connector comes off..might just be





2003 PCED OBD SECTION 5: Pinpoint Tests
Procedure revision date: 08/19/2002

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DU: Intake Air Temperature 2 (IAT2) DU: Introduction

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DU10 DTC P1115: SIMULATE OPPOSITE SIGNAL TO PCM
With IAT2 temperature sensor disconnected, connect a jumper wire between the sensor signal and SIG RTN circuits at the temperature sensor harness connector.
Key on.
Note: If a scan tool communication concern exists, remove jumper wire immediately and GO to DU12 .

Access IAT2 temperature sensor voltage PID.
Is the IAT2 temperature sensor voltage PID less than 0.2 volts?
Yes No
REPLACE suspect sensor. KEY OFF. REMOVE jumper wire. GO to DU11 .

DU11 CHECK TEMPERATURE SENSOR SIGNAL AND SIG RTN CIRCUITS FOR OPEN IN HARNESS
Note: Refer to the PCM connector pin numbers on this pinpoint test cover page.

Disconnect PCM.
Measure resistance of sensor signal circuit between PCM harness connector pin and IAT2 sensor harness connector.
Measure resistance of SIG RTN circuit between PCM harness connector pin and IAT2 temperature sensor harness connector.
Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE PCM (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) ). REPAIR open circuits.

DU12 CHECK TEMPERATURE SIGNAL FOR SHORT TO VREF IN HARNESS
Key off.
Disconnect PCM.
Measure resistance between IAT2 temperature signal circuit at the sensor harness connector and VREF circuits at the PCM harness connector.
Is the resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE PCM (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) ). REPAIR short to VREF.

DU20 P1114: SIMULATE OPPOSITE SIGNAL TO PCM
Disconnect harness from IAT2 temperature sensor.
Connect scan tool.
Key on.
Access IAT2 temperature sensor voltage PID.
Key off.
Is the IAT2 temperature sensor voltage PID greater than 4.2 volts?
Yes No
REPLACE sensor. GO to DU21 .

DU21 CHECK VREF VOLTAGE TO TP SENSOR
Refer to schematic at the beginning of the pinpoint test.
Disconnect TP sensor.
Key on, engine off.
Measure the voltage between VREF and SIG RTN circuits at the TP sensor harness connector.
Is voltage between 4.0 and 6.0 volts?
Yes No
There is sufficient VREF voltage. RECONNECT TP sensor. GO to DU22 . KEY OFF. GO to C1 .

DU22 CHECK TEMPERATURE SIGNAL CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND IN HARNESS
Note: Refer to the PCM connector pin numbers on this pinpoint test cover page.

Disconnect PCM.
Measure resistance between sensor signal and SIG RTN circuits and then between sensor signal and PWR GND circuits at the PCM harness connector.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes No
REPLACE PCM (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) ). REPAIR short circuit.

DU30 P0127 IAT2 TOO HIGH. CHECK SUPERCHARGER INTERCOOLER PUMP OPERATION
Connect scan tool.
Access Output Test Mode.
Select Mode: ALL ON.
Command pump to run.
Does supercharger intercooler pump run?
Yes No
GO to DU31 . KEY OFF. GO to KP8 (Charge Air Cooler Pump).

DU31 CHECK INTERCOOLER SYSTEM
Check intercooler system for:
low fluid level.
cracked coolant lines.
blocked heat exchanger or coolant lines.
crossed coolant lines.
Is intercooler system OK?
Yes No
KEY OFF. GO to DU32 . REPAIR as necessary.

DU32 SIMULATE HIGH IAT2 VOLTAGE SIGNAL
Connect scan tool.
Key on.
Access IAT2 VPID.
Observe PID while disconnecting IAT2 sensor.
Is PID greater than 4.0V?
Yes No
GO to DU33 . REPLACE PCM (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) ).

DU33 SIMULATE LOW IAT2 VOLTAGE SIGNAL
Access IAT2 VPID.
Observe PID while connecting a jumper wire between the sensor signal and SIG RTN circuit at the temperature sensor harness connector.
Is PID less than 1.0V?
Yes No
RECONNECT sensor and GO to Section 6 , Reference Values. COMPARE IAT2 PID to reference values under the given road test conditions. If sensor is not in range, REPLACE IAT2 sensor. REPLACE PCM (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) ).




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[tuscani66]

Hot Cobra,

Thanks for the response! I remember another thread talking about how it is a pain and sometimes it looks connected but isn't. A few months ago when I replaced the IAT2 I actually terminated the connection prior to bolting it in place to make sure the harness is 'clipped' on as we know it is a tight fit low slack connection.

I saw you post this on a couple other threads however I don't have a scan tool, just a generic reader with DashCommand app on my iPhone. I appreciate the troubleshooting steps just I don't have a way to do what its asking me. I will do what I can with a multi-meter.

Will do a search to see what scan tool is recommended unless you're biased on a certain one.

Thanks again,
Keoni.

 

[tuscani66]

Did some more searching and found that if it gets too hot it can trip the IAT2 (again I didn't datalog, will play with my dashcommand app to start datalogging tomorrow).

So I opened up my intercooler resevoir cap and it was empty! I have the Moroso Intercoolor Box, so its alum and didn't know it was low/empty. So I added coolant about 3/4 up and did the hot wire to turn on IC Pump and sure enough it was flowing well, added a bit more and some wet wetter than noticed the pump was making a weird noise, like the battery was draining. So I took off the hot wire jump, got the multi-meter and checked battery and it was still at 12.5v; reconnected the hot wire to turn on IC Pump and NOTHING.

Checked the fuse incase I tripped it, spot 1.19, and I don't even have a fuse in it - tells me the previous owner must have hot wired the relay.

Thoughts on what I should do, can't really burp/purge (if there's air) if the pump isn't even running. Course it is possible that I just happen to burn the pump right infront of me.

 

[tuscani66]

Let the car sit for about 20 minutes; when back and connected the hot wire to activate the IC Pump and it turned on. Did not have a good connection which I realized right away, so the pump was only on for a second. Took the wire and put spade connectors on the ends, went back and connected, nothing - guess I'll be ordering a new IC Pump.

Hopefully this will fix my IAT2 P1114 for periodically coming up on hard pulls otherwise its back to the drawing board.

 

[hotcobra03]

I will post pintest kp for pump

 

[hotcobra03]

https://workspaces.acrobat.com/?d=e5beMWsdMU-j9ydk1UGz-w

see if this opens for you..im trying on cell..i like to find a way to post in thread full pages

 

[tuscani66]

Got it earlier, thanks!

Tried a few of the steps from above; noticed that when I take the relay out and if I connect the loop (far left is return and far right is power) the pump turns on, if I removed the hard connections for only a second and return, nothing. If I wait a couple minutes, nothing but left it for 30 minutes and returned and pump turned on and stayed on for a solid minute (didn't try for longer). Leaning towards bad pump. Even with air in system, we should still hear pump click/activate/work but doesn't have to move liquid to know pump works (air gap is preventing it from circulating) but in my case nothing happens, no noise/hum/etc.

Relay is good, connection is good. Tonight will ohm test a couple, I think the relay is fine because even hot wiring the pump nothing happens unless you left it alone for a while. I'm going to also try tapping it with a hammer (like a starter) but even if that works I'm replacing it.

Thanks for all your help and the very useful information.

 

[tuscani66]

Also, took the car out today, P0171 and P1114 codes went to Pending Status again.

IC needs to be working again irregardless but I do hope this is what clears the codes. Do you have an idea why the Lean Bank1 keeps returning. I had both banks come on a bit till I found the bad tube shown above (which leads to Bank2). No idea what else to check on Bank1. I'm thinking maybe O2 sensor.

 

[hotcobra03]

BBB Industries - TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

Wiring diagrams..engine controls



Du20..

Pintest should be done by step and not to skip..steps..

You need wiring diagram to follow..tests can be done with multi meter..

Your code is for voltage at iat2 sensor to low..

 

[hotcobra03]

As to 171/174..that elbow you did..was there a t in line with hose going under to lower intake or has that been plugged?

 

[hotcobra03]

http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=38716


Cobra engine..see last page

 

[hotcobra03]

Step du21 is same test but at tps..same circuits for vref 5v

 

[tuscani66]

As to 171/174..that elbow you did..was there a t in line with hose going under to lower intake or has that been plugged?

Will do the steps in order.

Yes, redid the elbow to the T, line still connected.

 

[hotcobra03]

Hose under blower was issue for mine with 171/174

Hose was hardened..it wouldnt pull off nipple but it would spin on nipple..I used a hose clamp..

Lower has to come off to do this..

 

[tuscani66]

Hose under blower was issue for mine with 171/174

Hose was hardened..it wouldnt pull off nipple but it would spin on nipple..I used a hose clamp..

Lower has to come off to do this..

Thanks for the tip, looks like a fun weekend ahead;

Read your notes on how to remove lower:
http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...2-03-cobra-lower-intake-manifold-removal.html

Seems easier to remove as a whole or remove blower first?
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/how-230/266805-how-blower-removal-installation.html

 

[hotcobra03]

Pull as 1 unit..

It has to come up in front first ..so with junk out of back its more open to tilt without damage to hoses and harness..and if done carefull no damage to intake gasket which is a reuse if not distorted..

This is on a eaton..seen some others that are different which pulling blower from lower is needed....

Alot of guys just plug that hole and do without line..

 

[tuscani66]

I'll try to pull it as one unit though I can definitely see the difficulty with the odd weight, 50lb isn't much but leaning over the car and a lot of its weight will lean to the passenger side, might have to have a buddy come over to assist.

Looked at it briefly today, found another hose loose, was able to twist and pull off with little to no effort; not sure where it goes to or its purpose as I followed it to the passenger side firewall/fender then lost it.

 

[hotcobra03]

Thats evap vacuum line..

 

[hotcobra03]

I'll try to pull it as one unit though I can definitely see the difficulty with the odd weight, 50lb isn't much but leaning over the car and a lot of its weight will lean to the passenger side, might have to have a buddy come over to assist.

Looked at it briefly today, found another hose loose, was able to twist and pull off with little to no effort; not sure where it goes to or its purpose as I followed it to the passenger side firewall/fender then lost it.

In pic top left..is that old fuel line? Has 2 o rings