Grade my suspension idea

lanco123

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Don't forget the alignment;)
BTW the NVH will also increase with your mods, just something to take in consideration.

Chris

Oh yeah, definitely will get an alignment after all is installed. And thanks, I have heard that these mods will increase road noise coming into the cabin. I'm ok with that, as long as it's not ridiculous, which I don't expect.
 

hand-filer

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So let me get this straight. I won't need CC plates for a 1" drop? But obviously I will need the GT500 strut mounts then for almost any aftermarket strut. I guess I'll save some money and get the GT500 strut mounts instead of the CC plates and hope my camber is still good :)

It will depend on what Strut you ordered. 2011 - 2014 GT's are a different length compared to 2005 - 2010 GT's and all GT500's.

If you ordered struts specifically for a GT500 you will require the GT500 style mount. Or cc plates with integral mounts for a GT500. I know it gets confusing.

In my case I ordered struts and mounts to fit the 2011 - 2014 GT.
 

lanco123

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It will depend on what Strut you ordered. 2011 - 2014 GT's are a different length compared to 2005 - 2010 GT's and all GT500's.

If you ordered struts specifically for a GT500 you will require the GT500 style mount. Or cc plates with integral mounts for a GT500. I know it gets confusing.

In my case I ordered struts and mounts to fit the 2011 - 2014 GT.

At this point, I was planning on going with koni srt t's (11-14 models) and gt 500 strut mounts. NO CC plates. I called AM and they said this combo would work. ??
 

Way2QWK

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You may want to double check that....cause as far as I remember the gt500 mounts can not be used with 11-14 specific struts only 05-10 years.
 

lanco123

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hand-filer

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nate714

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GT500 strut mounts require use of 05-10 struts. With 1 inch drop you will gain negative camber, but it's minor enough to correct with camber bolts instead of the more expensive plates. GT500 strut mounts are better than stock mounts but not needed.
 

lanco123

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I've heard bad things about the camber bolts, though. Can't the negative camber on such a small drop be relieved with factory components/alignment? Otherwise I'm back to square one. 11-14 koni oranges and CC plates. Like I said, I want this car to be constructed correctly. I don't really want to cut corners. Thanks for your help guys.
 

BMR Tech 2

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Negative camber is fine. I have tons and tons of customers dropped on BMR springs (1.5") with GT500 mounts and no camber plates or bolts. Toe is what kills tires, camber is pretty harmless as long as it's not excessive. I run my own car around -1.5* of camber on the street. With those Hurst 1" springs, I'd expect to see in the neighbor hood of -.75 to -1*.
 

lanco123

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Negative camber is fine. I have tons and tons of customers dropped on BMR springs (1.5") with GT500 mounts and no camber plates or bolts. Toe is what kills tires, camber is pretty harmless as long as it's not excessive. I run my own car around -1.5* of camber on the street. With those Hurst 1" springs, I'd expect to see in the neighbor hood of -.75 to -1*.

This information is extremely helpful. And I really appreciate it. Ok. So I'll go with the 05-10 koni oranges and the gt 500 mounts. It'll save me $150-200 overall. And if I ever end up going lower with another spring setup, I can always get CC plates then. Thanks a ton everyone!
 

imeyers302

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Just throwing this out there. I know it's expensive, and most people (those that don't have one) say it's not worth it, but the single best suspension mod I did (and I did them all) was a Steeda Watts link. You can add all the best suspension stuff including panhard bar and brace and the rear of the car will still have that disconnected feeling (been there done that). The watts link makes the rear end feel like it's connected to the rest of the car. Best way I can describe it. Even on the street it makes a huge difference. A good panhard bar and brace and you are already a 1/3 of the way to paying for a watts.
 

TSHOES

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Just throwing this out there. I know it's expensive, and most people (those that don't have one) say it's not worth it, but the single best suspension mod I did (and I did them all) was a Steeda Watts link. You can add all the best suspension stuff including panhard bar and brace and the rear of the car will still have that disconnected feeling (been there done that). The watts link makes the rear end feel like it's connected to the rest of the car. Best way I can describe it. Even on the street it makes a huge difference. A good panhard bar and brace and you are already a 1/3 of the way to paying for a watts.

I agree that the Watts link is the best suspension mod for a solid axle mustang but i think its a bit overkill for OP's application especially if he isn't going to track the car. I would have to disagree about the disconnected feeling. Compared to stock, it feels like a different car.. planted and ready to go around a corner.
 

imeyers302

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I agree with you that it is more planted after upgrading, but after doing lca's and relos, uca and mount, Panhard bar and brace, springs and koni yellows, and a steeda x brace, the rear still felt loosey goosey over imperfections in the road. The watts link all but eliminated that feeling.
 

nate714

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I'd love a watts link if I had the budget for it, but there are several intersection near me with uneven pavement and kicking the rear out with just a hair of throttle input puts a grin on my face every time. I feel like the panhard setup adds a goofy quirk to the way it drives compared to other cars.
 

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