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The Terminator
Turbo Cobras
Got the turbo bug, Need advice coming from TVS 2.3
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<blockquote data-quote="tt335ci03cobra" data-source="post: 15511663" data-attributes="member: 68944"><p>A nice option to look at if you like these cars in general but aren't sentimentally attached to your particular cobra is to sell it and buy a well sorted turbo car.</p><p></p><p>You can possibly sell your car for $17-23k depending on variables, and buy a clean well sorted turbo cobra for $20~25k. I have t checked the market in years so don't quote me, but that's a rough guess where they might still be, if not cheaper. </p><p></p><p>It will cost far more than $5-7k to properly setup a turbo car. You can sell blower parts easily enough to offset that but the smart money is in buying a finished turbo car. </p><p></p><p>That all said, hellion kits (just turbo, not compound) are very straightforward and have good designs to them for street and track applications. They aren't going to be as optimized as a one off custom or as interesting but they work great and have very few issues worthy of correction. A hellion kit for $8k new or about $5k used is very complete.</p><p></p><p>•you have fuel mods now so you can sell the or delete what is extra (the kit comes with some fuel pieces depending how it's specced)</p><p>•you'll need (want*, much easier) a tubular K to fit quickly. I like maximum Motorsports but it's the pricier one of the lot. Rides great/handles excellent though. </p><p>•tuning is something you'll want to know you can competently have handled, it's not as easy as bolt on tuning or SC tuning. Make sure you have good local talent to tune it. </p><p>•sound will change dramatically. And possibly for the worse if you run a halfway quiet exhaust now. You'll probably want to shell for an e-cutout system if you find it too quiet... I literally just run resonators. No mufflers, or cats. I have 3" plumbing and it's still eerily quiet, I'll link some vids.</p><p>•time. Plan on needing a solid amount of quality time to install the setup or have it done. An experienced mechanic needs a good 3-5 days committed to the install, and a traditional shop could need a month or two. It's boarders on lathargic... If you have good hands, read up and get versed, no part of the install is decidedly complicated, but it requires common sense like lining up positions for easy removal/maintenance regarding bolts and clamp head locations, plumbing and ducting flow/efficiency, overall airflow and cooling properties, etc. A single is far easier to plumb. Less headaches, easier to maintain. Less heat typically.</p><p>•you'll want an electronic boost controller, nice set of gauges, n-gauges, sct xcal4, or so on to monitor:</p><p>-digital coolant temp measured in line</p><p>-oil pressure</p><p>-oil temp</p><p>-IAT's</p><p>-fuel pressure</p><p>-boost</p><p>-etc.</p><p>It can easily reach $1500-2k in gauges, sct xcal, boost controller, etc.</p><p>•spring for the cooling and maintenance options. Err on the side of caution. Better to run a slightly bigger exducer and 3" full exhaust (dual) 4"+ (single until it meets the X) so as to reduce pressure and requisite heat. Exhaust/hotside sizing alone can drop exhaust gas temps by 3-500*. Wrapping or coating the exhaust and hotside is a great option. If you have a return fuel system, coat or wrap the exhaust. It will keep underbody temps far cooler, especially important near the gas tank and return lines. Hot fuel vapor locks. That doesn't help to to be able to ignite, which is a scenario that detonates engines easily enough. Ask how I know...</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tt335ci03cobra, post: 15511663, member: 68944"] A nice option to look at if you like these cars in general but aren't sentimentally attached to your particular cobra is to sell it and buy a well sorted turbo car. You can possibly sell your car for $17-23k depending on variables, and buy a clean well sorted turbo cobra for $20~25k. I have t checked the market in years so don't quote me, but that's a rough guess where they might still be, if not cheaper. It will cost far more than $5-7k to properly setup a turbo car. You can sell blower parts easily enough to offset that but the smart money is in buying a finished turbo car. That all said, hellion kits (just turbo, not compound) are very straightforward and have good designs to them for street and track applications. They aren't going to be as optimized as a one off custom or as interesting but they work great and have very few issues worthy of correction. A hellion kit for $8k new or about $5k used is very complete. •you have fuel mods now so you can sell the or delete what is extra (the kit comes with some fuel pieces depending how it's specced) •you'll need (want*, much easier) a tubular K to fit quickly. I like maximum Motorsports but it's the pricier one of the lot. Rides great/handles excellent though. •tuning is something you'll want to know you can competently have handled, it's not as easy as bolt on tuning or SC tuning. Make sure you have good local talent to tune it. •sound will change dramatically. And possibly for the worse if you run a halfway quiet exhaust now. You'll probably want to shell for an e-cutout system if you find it too quiet... I literally just run resonators. No mufflers, or cats. I have 3" plumbing and it's still eerily quiet, I'll link some vids. •time. Plan on needing a solid amount of quality time to install the setup or have it done. An experienced mechanic needs a good 3-5 days committed to the install, and a traditional shop could need a month or two. It's boarders on lathargic... If you have good hands, read up and get versed, no part of the install is decidedly complicated, but it requires common sense like lining up positions for easy removal/maintenance regarding bolts and clamp head locations, plumbing and ducting flow/efficiency, overall airflow and cooling properties, etc. A single is far easier to plumb. Less headaches, easier to maintain. Less heat typically. •you'll want an electronic boost controller, nice set of gauges, n-gauges, sct xcal4, or so on to monitor: -digital coolant temp measured in line -oil pressure -oil temp -IAT's -fuel pressure -boost -etc. It can easily reach $1500-2k in gauges, sct xcal, boost controller, etc. •spring for the cooling and maintenance options. Err on the side of caution. Better to run a slightly bigger exducer and 3" full exhaust (dual) 4"+ (single until it meets the X) so as to reduce pressure and requisite heat. Exhaust/hotside sizing alone can drop exhaust gas temps by 3-500*. Wrapping or coating the exhaust and hotside is a great option. If you have a return fuel system, coat or wrap the exhaust. It will keep underbody temps far cooler, especially important near the gas tank and return lines. Hot fuel vapor locks. That doesn't help to to be able to ignite, which is a scenario that detonates engines easily enough. Ask how I know... [/QUOTE]
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Got the turbo bug, Need advice coming from TVS 2.3
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