Going to change my head gaskets.. advice, tips or cautions would be appreciated!

[99FiveOh]

So I have a blown head gasket due to my tuner turning off my IAT retard function resulting in lots of detonation. I've decided I'm going to pull the motor and replace the head gaskets myself. I've ordered the Felpro top end gasket kit from summit as well as new head bolts. Yes I know, now is a good time to do this and that etc etc... but I really just want to fix the issue and get my motor back in.

Having said all that, I'm not new to working on cars and putting motors together but my expertise is almost exclusively small block Fords. So I'd like to hear from you guys some tips or things to watch out for while I'm doing this. I have an aluminum block I plan to use as a basis for a new build so I don't really want to dump a lot of cash into my stock motor. I just need it to last me another year or two.

I appreciate the help!

 

[Nightmare302]

It is incredibly rare for these motors to blow head gaskets with detonation. I would honestly make sure to inspect the engine thoroughly. Make sure to check for cracks in the cylinder as it is common for the iron blocks to crack in a cylinder under detonation and seep gases into the cooling system.

My tips? Drop the engine to do them. Don't cut corners and try to slap it back together spend some time looking it over make sure it didn't damage anything else. May have valve cover/intake/timing cover gaskets ready to go just in case.

Good luck!

 

[99FiveOh]

The plan is to put it on an engine stand and take my time pulling it apart and learning the layout of the motor as I go. I'm a little intimidated by all the timing chains and related pieces.

 

[99FiveOh]

Also from the countless threads I've read about related symptoms, cracked cylinder walls usually resulted in coolant getting into the cylinder and smoking out the back since a crack in the iron would stay open all the time, though at varying degrees of separation. I've also read that these gaskets can seep a little under boost but not allow coolant in the other direction. That's what mine is doing. After countless attempts to burp the system, trying a new coolant tank and cap. I even installed an aluminum tank that has the old school style radiator cap and I still get coolant spewing under boost. New thermostat, no change.

I'd do a leakdown test but getting to that crank bolt looks to be a pita and even then there's not much room to turn the motor by hand. I did a block test and it didn't show any exhaust in the coolant. But I think it really needs to be used in the crossover but there was no way to get a good seal. Aggravating for sure!

 

[hotcobra03]

As a 1st timer I did this..felt the same way on timing..

after doing it I felt it was super easy to do..

I did mine old school in drive way..

pulled just engine..left trans in car..never took hood off..

straight lift engine enough to roll car back..lowered engine and bolted on stand..

some notes

loosen lower caged pulley bolt before any thing..yet can be done on stand.

buy extra large stand..engine complete is 750ish

stand might need modification to fit wide bolt patten.

if reading manual..drivers side is left and passenger right

timing marks are set looking at face on pic, so it is backwards

if you were to set marks and turn crank to check that marks line up you would need to turn crank maybe 64 times to get all marks to align again with brass marks on chain

 

[jrgoffin]

Here's a complete build thread you'll find useful:

http://www.modularfords.com/threads/236857-Aluminator-Gibtec-build

I also degree the cams in there, so there is a lot of info on the gears and such. Otherwise, a service manual will spell it out plainly. You can get the PDF or Ford version here:

http://www.terminator-cobra.com/svt_documents.htm