Coming from a stock 12 Shelby I'm looking at what it would take to walk a 13/14 500. I've been looking at the gen 2R vmp tvs but I wasn't sure if I could get where I'd like to be with the stock blower possibly ported with other bolt ons.
Getting a 12 PP GT500 to walk a 13/14 500?
- Thread starter trc46
- Start date
Depends on where you want to be with regards to using the stock blower, but probably not much over 650 crank HP with it. With an aftermarket blower, just pick your poison. Pretty much any aftermarket blower will have you walking all over a stock '13/'14. Now, once you both start modding, ALL bets are off! Both engines respond basically the same to mods, and both engines can make the same HP. At that point, it just depends on who has the better mods.
If you are trying to do it on the cheap, then I have seen take off 13/14 TVS blowers fairly cheap in the past, like around 1500 bucks. I personally wouldn't waste the time/money on the M122.
TVS, supporting mods, tune
yep, done it twice. Both cars ran in the 10's at over 130 and drove like stock.
Which gen tvs was it? What fuel/intake/tire setup?
2009 GT500 13/14 TVS, 72lb, 2.5 upper, C&L CAI, Lethal orx, magna flow cat back, 3.73's, LFP HE, Race stars 17x4.5 15x10 MT 295/50/15, VMP tune 10.71 @ 131
2012 GT500 PP(3.73) 13/14 TVS, 13/14 injectors, 13/14 HE, 2.5 upper, JLT CAI, Cobra jet twin 65, Lethal ORH, stock catback, stock wheels with 305/35/20 MT SS, VMP tune, 10.96 @ 130
I could drive the 09 better, had nothing but shifting issues with the 12.
What tire on the 12?
Stock 20's with mt 305/35/20 et street ss
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In before the move!
@OP: Clearly, a pullied TVS swap with KB boost-a-pump, 56# Ford Injectors (minimum), plugs, TB and intake is the easiest way to get there. The 13-14s have a little more cam and a little more compression than we do so the tune is critical.
There have been some guys using the stock M122 that have gotten into the 10's. Fast enough to walk a lot of cars. Not easy and you are talking about full bolt ons: 2.5" Pulley, heat range 7 plugs, intake, big TB, OR-X or H at a minimum, long tube headers prefered, dual fan heat exchanger etc, at least 93 octane, and a SOLID tune just to entertain the idea.
A port of the M122 is mandatory to even think it as well. Ive purchased a grinder with 3" extension and a Tungsten carbide grinding bit to do just that. Will be tearing down stock m122 for a home port in a few weeks. Im poor and cant go TVS just yet.
I needed to replace my worn rear gears so I upgraded from the factory SVT PP 3.73s to Ford Racing 4.10s. That will definitely help acceleration and ET (ability to walk on a car). Down side is that on the big end Ill be very close to redline, so on my first test hits with the new set up Ill have to be cautious.
You'll need a WOT Box to keep shifting issues at a minimum. Redline D4 ATF, MGW Gen 2 or equivalent shifter, and upgraded clutch are a very good idea. Grinding/missing a gear is embarrassing and a guaranteed loss. 11-12 are notorious for 1-2 grind. Tremec offers an upgraded #2 blocker ring without the carbon fiber lining. The lining was supposed to help improve blocker ring life in the #2 syncro but caused the grind issue. Shifter and fluid can greatly improve the condition, adding the WOT Box makes it essentially a non issue.
Ability to plant the power down efficiently will be required with either TVS or ported M122 and full bolts ons. Fastest way to lose is blowing the tires off. Ive got a full BMR rear drag setup under my car with LCA relo backets, rod end upper and lower control arms, upper mount, Viking Performance DA Warrior shocks and Viking 150# springs on BPS adjustable perches. Need to get your instant center under the car and keep the rear planted during the run.
Consider M/T ET Street Rs or S/S radials necessary.
@OP: Clearly, a pullied TVS swap with KB boost-a-pump, 56# Ford Injectors (minimum), plugs, TB and intake is the easiest way to get there. The 13-14s have a little more cam and a little more compression than we do so the tune is critical.
There have been some guys using the stock M122 that have gotten into the 10's. Fast enough to walk a lot of cars. Not easy and you are talking about full bolt ons: 2.5" Pulley, heat range 7 plugs, intake, big TB, OR-X or H at a minimum, long tube headers prefered, dual fan heat exchanger etc, at least 93 octane, and a SOLID tune just to entertain the idea.
A port of the M122 is mandatory to even think it as well. Ive purchased a grinder with 3" extension and a Tungsten carbide grinding bit to do just that. Will be tearing down stock m122 for a home port in a few weeks. Im poor and cant go TVS just yet.
I needed to replace my worn rear gears so I upgraded from the factory SVT PP 3.73s to Ford Racing 4.10s. That will definitely help acceleration and ET (ability to walk on a car). Down side is that on the big end Ill be very close to redline, so on my first test hits with the new set up Ill have to be cautious.
You'll need a WOT Box to keep shifting issues at a minimum. Redline D4 ATF, MGW Gen 2 or equivalent shifter, and upgraded clutch are a very good idea. Grinding/missing a gear is embarrassing and a guaranteed loss. 11-12 are notorious for 1-2 grind. Tremec offers an upgraded #2 blocker ring without the carbon fiber lining. The lining was supposed to help improve blocker ring life in the #2 syncro but caused the grind issue. Shifter and fluid can greatly improve the condition, adding the WOT Box makes it essentially a non issue.
Ability to plant the power down efficiently will be required with either TVS or ported M122 and full bolts ons. Fastest way to lose is blowing the tires off. Ive got a full BMR rear drag setup under my car with LCA relo backets, rod end upper and lower control arms, upper mount, Viking Performance DA Warrior shocks and Viking 150# springs on BPS adjustable perches. Need to get your instant center under the car and keep the rear planted during the run.
Consider M/T ET Street Rs or S/S radials necessary.
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Just go straight to TVS IMO.
The potential/price of them are worth it instead of spending money on the stock blower
The potential/price of them are worth it instead of spending money on the stock blower
Not to mention 24 more cubic inches. It can be done, but if the 13-14 is pullied and tuned, it might be game over.
Getting a 13/14 tvs take off will get you door to door, with you having a slight advantage of gearing if you can put the power down. I paid $1k for a 13/14 take off, $1k for installation and dyno tune. Made 606whp/611tq. Best mod ever.
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