So I'm looking at forged internal short-blocks to handle some excessive boost for my Turbo kit that hopefully is coming soon, and I stumble upon this gen 2 Ford Aluminator, but says piston to head clearance issues when used with gen 1 heads. This is the first I've heard of this, as many gen 1 owners find factory wrecked 15-17 engines for their bottom ends to use with their existing heads to handle more boost / power because of the connecting rod upgrade this offers. I fully understand A Ford Aluminator has different pistons and rods compared to a factory gen 2 Coyote, but both are advertised as 11:1 compression. Here's where I'm getting my pth interference info. Ford Performance M6009A50NAA - 5.0L COYOTE ALUMINUM BLOCK. Please tell me this isn't right as I'd feel better spending money on this part from Ford, rather than hoping all the 3 letter coyote capable motor shops do good work that offer a forged Coyote bottom end.
Gen 2 NA Ford Aluminator with gen 1 (11-14) heads, no go??
- Thread starter jeffs
- Start date
First I've heard of it as well. I have the M50A1 long block which is basically a gen 2 motor with gen 1 timing components.
Not sure, but noticed latemodel restoration has the same warning on this very short-block?
Could it be because of the camshafts? Isn’t that why the Gen 1 intake cam needs to be swapped over?
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
It's saying piston-to-head, and not the more common piston-to-valve interference issue.
Hmmm. Could always spring for the 15+ heads. Makes that aluminator kinda over priced then though.
These are the sort of reason why I didn’t go with a 15+ short block in my car and just built the one I had. Too many variables.
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
Yeah, I'm considering just buying a balanced rotating assembly if my bores look good, filing the rings to size, and rolling out with it. Should be under 4K if this plan works out in my favor. A friend of mine is running a cheap Ebay rotating assembly I think it consists of boss crank / pistons, S550 rods, and is over 900 wheel in his turbo Coyote Fox, has lotsa passes, and over 1500 miles
Or buy the parts of the rotating assembly you really want and get it all balanced. Boss crank is forged and good for tons of power. It’s like $200 from Ford. Then add the pistons and rods you want, get it all balanced, throw ARP2000 rod bolts in and some decent wrist pins, rings, etc.
Sent from my iPhone using the svtperformance.com mobile app
5.0L Coyote Wiseco Pistons / K1 H-Beam Connecting Rod Combo, this plus my existing crank, is my plan as of now. I'll send off my crank to the vendor in the link as soon as the engine is apart to see if the bores are still clean enough to just go std. size, and get it all back, balanced and ready to rock! Looking forward
From what I understand to get a gen 2 block to work in a gen 1 you need to swap the cams and timing components over in the gen 2 heads. Cams are bigger in the gen 2 13mm if i'm correct. Been looking into this swap when ever mine decides to go.
If you dont swap cams/timing componets you will get interference.
The heads themselves are the same. you can buy a bare set of 11-14 GT/ 12-13 boss/15-18 GT/15-18 gt350 heads and bolt them to any 11-18 block (including the voodoo 5.2) The 5.2 voodoo heads will work, but need some grinding on the rocker arms as seen HERE in addition to your timing components for your year.
The heads themselves are the same. you can buy a bare set of 11-14 GT/ 12-13 boss/15-18 GT/15-18 gt350 heads and bolt them to any 11-18 block (including the voodoo 5.2) The 5.2 voodoo heads will work, but need some grinding on the rocker arms as seen HERE in addition to your timing components for your year.
Users who are viewing this thread
