gauge cluster issue, possibly PATS??

[walked_u_hard]

Has anyone had an issue with their instrument cluster or PATS? im having an issue ive never seen before in this car, 2011 mustang.


The cluster itself has power, and displays mileage when the info button is pushed. When the key is turned forward 2 clicks to turn the ignition on, the cluster does not illuminate (or do a needle sweep) and will not engage the starter/fuel system/or injectors, but my 12v switched gauges power up, so i dont think its the lock cylinder. I am not able to read DTC's either (wont communicate) assuming its related.


If it were the PATS system i assume the anti theft light by the tach would be flashing rapidly, but it is not.

Ideas?

 

[nother5oh]

Just throwing this out there, but possible ignition switch? Its possible the switch is working accessory mode, and possibly not engaging when switched to the run position. Its rare but ive seen it. The ford escapes have a problem in the ignition between the key cylinder itself and the ignition switch. They will light up the whole dash as normal but not engage the starter when turning to start. In your case it is possible the switch just isnt working past accessory. Now obviously there are other possibilities, but this was off the top of my head. Hope you figure it out op.

 

[basspro302]

History of the car? Has the engine been out? Or was the car working then stopped? Sounds like a bad ground possibly an engine or chassis ground. Take a test light hook it to negative on the battery and touch it to the engine on the block or head or something on it that should be grounded turn the key on if it lights up you have a bad ground also turn it to the crank position and also do the same test but touch it to the body and repeat. Make sure you make a good connection.

 

[jn2]

I just ran into PATS last night after writing a tune. I have a 13 premium so my symptoms were different

- gauge face was RED with no Halo
- Every warning message came up, all of them
- Turning the key did not turn engine over
- little padlock was illuminated

I simply refreshed the car and I was good to go.

 

[TrickLittlePony]

I will admit, I had to look it up... PATS
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/SecuriLock

 

[walked_u_hard]

Just throwing this out there, but possible ignition switch? Its possible the switch is working accessory mode, and possibly not engaging when switched to the run position. Its rare but ive seen it. The ford escapes have a problem in the ignition between the key cylinder itself and the ignition switch. They will light up the whole dash as normal but not engage the starter when turning to start. In your case it is possible the switch just isnt working past accessory. Now obviously there are other possibilities, but this was off the top of my head. Hope you figure it out op.

12v switched power works in accessory, and run position, and when i go to crank it, it cuts off 12v switched power as it normally would. It seems to work just fine, i dont think its the ignition switch, but im going to test it today anyway.

History of the car? Has the engine been out? Or was the car working then stopped? Sounds like a bad ground possibly an engine or chassis ground. Take a test light hook it to negative on the battery and touch it to the engine on the block or head or something on it that should be grounded turn the key on if it lights up you have a bad ground also turn it to the crank position and also do the same test but touch it to the body and repeat. Make sure you make a good connection.

new sleeved motor, new glide, new cage. only thing i have to do yet is run C02 lines for the wastegates. Anyway, the symptoms started out of no where while installing my AMS2000. the only thing in my mind that makes sense is when i tapped into the CAN+ and CAN- for MPH signal that it screwed something up, and is now not allowing the CANbus to communicate with the instrument cluster.

I talked to sebastian from NLR and he assured me that it is a blind unit and couldnt be causing the issue. i unsoldered the leads from the converter box, and the issue is still there, so i believe him.

i wish i owned a ford IDS. whatever it is, it seems ignition related. since i have no fuel or injector. i have to do some more digging around :-(



on a brighter note, a pic of my dirty ass car.

 

[walked_u_hard]

I've tested a lot of things with the car to no avail. Just figured id update the thread encase anyone needs it in the future. ill update more later.

-Battery = 11.8 volts (just put back on the charger)
-PCM relay is functional and has the correct resistance.
-PCM relay *harness side* sees correct voltage on pins 87 and 86. grounds are good on 85 and 30.
-Ignition switch is functional in all positions.
-Ignition switch pins *harness side* has proper resistance to corresponding pins in SJB
-Battery Junction Box has power/ground.
-Smart Junction Box has power/ground.
-BJB all fuses are good.
-SJB all fuses are good.

 

[walked_u_hard]

my god... its always the dumbest things i swear. i saw the connector was connected and skipped past it before, a day ago.

i went back today and check connectors again. Behind the steering column to the left there is a grey/tan connector... that WAS connected. apparently it somehow became slightly loose and caused this entire issue. face palm. oh well, at least i can move on to getting this motor broken in!!