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Driveline
Funny story and clutch cable question
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<blockquote data-quote="Avispa" data-source="post: 14049408" data-attributes="member: 78552"><p>We need to clear up a few things about pedal free play, pedal travel and clutch engagement point here.</p><p></p><p>First, the free play depends on the cable length, how the cable jacket is positioned relative to the firewall and bellhousing, the pivot ball length and the cable hookup point on the quadrant. The factory self-adjusting quadrant is designed to keep the free play close to zero and the TOB in constant light contact with the pressure plate fingers.</p><p></p><p>If you can't get all the free play out of your pedal, it's because the overall geometry of the pressure plate fingers, the length of the pivot ball and the cable jacket position need to be fixed. I agree the stock cables are the best overall. You'll have to fix excessive free play with a firewall adjuster and if that's not enough, put in a longer pivot ball. I just put a few washers under mine to do the same thing, effectively.</p><p></p><p>Now about pedal travel and engagement point, pretty much every quadrant and fork have the same connection points to the cable and the same radius from the pivot hole to the cable channel, and so in combination they have the same pedal travel geometry. If all the free play is out of the cable, no matter what you do, starting from the pedal all the way up and moving it to the floor will move the TOB the same amount.</p><p></p><p>A new factory clutch with properly set free play (TOB just slightly preloaded against the pressure plate fingers) will engage close to the top of the pedal travel. As the clutch disk wears out, it takes more and more movement of the pressure plate fingers to release the clutch. Gradually the engagement point will move closer to the floor. Once you run out of cable adjustment and the clutch engages at the floor, it's time for a new clutch. There is no other fix.</p><p></p><p>Aftermarket clutches have different contact points between the fingers and the TOB, which will change the pedal movement to pressure plate movement (not TOB movement) relationship. They also have different heights, depending on the diaphragm or finger design. The height problem can be fixed like any free play problem with a combination of quadrant, cable and pivot ball adjustments.</p><p></p><p>Aftermarket clutches also have different pressure plate movement with respect to finger (and TOB) movement, depending on the fulcrum point in the pressure plate. The low effort Spec pressure plates have a longer finger travel for the same movement of the pressure plate, which is how they get the low pedal effort. They are going to run out of adjustment quicker than stock clutches because they need more TOB movement to get the same amount of pressure plate lift as with a high effort pressure plate.</p><p></p><p>So a properly adjusted cable and quadrant, with a good clutch should engage close to the top of pedal travel. You can always add in freeplay with your firewall adjuster (or adjustable cable) if you don't like the feel. Just remember there will come a time when all the free play is gone and the clutch starts engaging close to the floor. Then you know it's new clutch time.</p><p></p><p>Hope this helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Avispa, post: 14049408, member: 78552"] We need to clear up a few things about pedal free play, pedal travel and clutch engagement point here. First, the free play depends on the cable length, how the cable jacket is positioned relative to the firewall and bellhousing, the pivot ball length and the cable hookup point on the quadrant. The factory self-adjusting quadrant is designed to keep the free play close to zero and the TOB in constant light contact with the pressure plate fingers. If you can't get all the free play out of your pedal, it's because the overall geometry of the pressure plate fingers, the length of the pivot ball and the cable jacket position need to be fixed. I agree the stock cables are the best overall. You'll have to fix excessive free play with a firewall adjuster and if that's not enough, put in a longer pivot ball. I just put a few washers under mine to do the same thing, effectively. Now about pedal travel and engagement point, pretty much every quadrant and fork have the same connection points to the cable and the same radius from the pivot hole to the cable channel, and so in combination they have the same pedal travel geometry. If all the free play is out of the cable, no matter what you do, starting from the pedal all the way up and moving it to the floor will move the TOB the same amount. A new factory clutch with properly set free play (TOB just slightly preloaded against the pressure plate fingers) will engage close to the top of the pedal travel. As the clutch disk wears out, it takes more and more movement of the pressure plate fingers to release the clutch. Gradually the engagement point will move closer to the floor. Once you run out of cable adjustment and the clutch engages at the floor, it's time for a new clutch. There is no other fix. Aftermarket clutches have different contact points between the fingers and the TOB, which will change the pedal movement to pressure plate movement (not TOB movement) relationship. They also have different heights, depending on the diaphragm or finger design. The height problem can be fixed like any free play problem with a combination of quadrant, cable and pivot ball adjustments. Aftermarket clutches also have different pressure plate movement with respect to finger (and TOB) movement, depending on the fulcrum point in the pressure plate. The low effort Spec pressure plates have a longer finger travel for the same movement of the pressure plate, which is how they get the low pedal effort. They are going to run out of adjustment quicker than stock clutches because they need more TOB movement to get the same amount of pressure plate lift as with a high effort pressure plate. So a properly adjusted cable and quadrant, with a good clutch should engage close to the top of pedal travel. You can always add in freeplay with your firewall adjuster (or adjustable cable) if you don't like the feel. Just remember there will come a time when all the free play is gone and the clutch starts engaging close to the floor. Then you know it's new clutch time. Hope this helps. [/QUOTE]
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