Fuel pump or CCRM?

[no cigar]

Hey guys, have some issues with my car and thought I'd see if anyone had these issues.

Lately I've had an intermittent problem with my AC and the compressor not coming on. Initially I figured it was a compressor/coolant problem and had it looked at. The shop noted that it had plenty of charge but replaced it with new refrigerant and just unplugged/replugged the compressor pigtail in -- and got it working again. After about 2 weeks it was working off/on and the best thing I was able to find was the CCRM.

Now, yesterday, the car completely died and it was very apparent that the car was getting no fuel. When I started it up, there was a noticeable bog and it almost died but came up to power and didn't die completely for about 10-15 minutes of driving. There was a CEL thrown but I won't be able to read it until I get my SCT2 back.

Am I right to assume that the CCRM could be the culprit since these two instances both deal with relays that are in that module?

 

[fangs99]

I would say the CCRM too..... Now if the CCRM is buzzing it's a ground issue.

 

[no cigar]

Cool. Yeah, the fuel pump isn't coming on at all so it's pretty obvious that the module is dead or the pump is.

 

[fangs99]

Good thing you can find a ford oem one on eBay for $ 40-50.

 

[RX1Cobra]

Cool. Yeah, the fuel pump isn't coming on at all so it's pretty obvious that the module is dead or the pump is.

Try hitting the tank with a rubber mallet. That's what I did when my 01 wouldn't start after winter storage. It started after that telling me it was the pump.

 

[IUP99snake]

Do you regain fuel pressure if you cycle the ignition? Are there any other funny things happening like any lights on that shouldn't be? Such as the passenger side turn signal indicator on without flashing?

I've been having similar issues. I'll lose fuel pressure and the engine will stall out, but it'll immediately start back up again. I could even be driving down the road when it starts to bog, leave it in gear to keep the engine spinning, cycle the ignition off and on quickly, and it'll come back to life. It'll have episodes where it'll stall and restart for 10-15 minutes and it'll go away like it was never there.

I removed my ccrm and cleaned it out with MAF cleaner 2 months ago. Thought I fixed the problem but it happened again this morning.

Last time the codes went away on their own. This time I'm gonna get the codes read before they go away.

Good luck! Keep us posted.

 

[no cigar]

Hey guys, just an update. It was indeed the fuel pump. Spent all yesterday fixing it and tore the grommet for the filler neck so it'll have to wait until Monday to get it all the way together because that means a trip to the dealer.

 

[IUP99snake]

Hey guys, just an update. It was indeed the fuel pump. Spent all yesterday fixing it and tore the grommet for the filler neck so it'll have to wait until Monday to get it all the way together because that means a trip to the dealer.

Thanks for the update. From your initial post, you said the car died, but you were able to start it back up, but it bogged out? Was that the last time you tried to drive it before you replaced the pump? I'm just wondering if there are any other symptoms that pointed towards a bad pump instead of the CCRM.

When you pulled the pump out, would you have been able to tell from the outside that it had failed? For example, was the sock filter dirty or collapsed or anything? Or were any of those clear plastic fuel hoses becoming brown or brittle?

I'm glad to hear it was only a fuel pump. You might as well replace your filler neck gasket anyway, it would have gone bad eventually and you would have found out the hard way by spilling a few gallons of gas on the ground after filling it up.

Here's something you might get a kick out of:
When I first installed my procharger, I had a Walbro 255 lph pump seize up after only 10 minutes of idling while I was double checking things before I ran it on the dyno.

If that Walbro pump had lasted 20 minutes longer, I would have popped my motor on the dyno.

I was able to diagnose it easily, but I only had my stock pump to replace it with for the meantime. I decided to run it with the stock pump on the dyno anyway, just to see how it would run. We could always abort the run if it started to lean out or lose fuel pressure. But we were curious to see if stock pump would be able to supply enough fuel to feed 42LB injectors. With luck on our side, the first pull made 461 rwhp, with a good A/F ratio and never went under 40 psi under boost with the stock fuel pump. When I got my replacement walbro from the factory, I reinstalled it and we didn't notice any changes on the dyno over the stock pump.

Anyway, my point is: My original Walbro 255 only lasted for 10 minutes, and I'm now going on 10 years with the one I replaced it with. So, anything could happen.

Just out of curiosity, has anyone else experienced CCRM related issues? If so, what were the symptoms? What did you do to fix it?

Like I mentioned in my earlier post, my car has little "fits" here and there. When it decides to have a fit, it'll lose fuel pressure, the engine will bog, and the passenger turn signal indicator on the dash will illuminate (Weird right?). But as soon as I cycle the ignition off and back on again, the fuel pressure will come back. But it always starts back up. The only question is "How many times will lose fuel pressure after starting until it will run normally?"

It never happens when the car is cold. It happens more often when it's been raining, but it doesn't correspond directly with being driven in the rain. It is also more likely to happen after I just put gas in it. It happened much more often a few months ago when the A/C was low on coolant. I've since filled the A/C and cleaned the CCRM using MAF cleaner. Back then if it was having a fit, I was able to exacerbate the problem if I turned on the A/C or the parking lights/headlights. While in a fit, it would still die out even if I didn't turn on the lights or A/C, but it would die out quicker if I turned on either of those. But when the fit was over, everything would work fine. And after a few days, the code would disappear. I've never been able to get a code reader on it before the code goes away.

There's also a parasitic drain on the battery that I haven't been able to trace, and I'm starting to think these issues are related. It'll be completely dead if it sits for more than 2 days. I know the GEM isn't draining the battery because it'll still drain with the GEM fuse pulled out.

Sorry for the long post. This isn't even my thread. The reason why I discussed my issue in such great detail was not to get anyone to help me, but keep each other aware of what could possibly happen as our cars "age gracefully" and start to experience stupid problems like this. :beer:

Homer

 

[no cigar]

The day it died, I drove it in the AM and noticed it immediately bog after startup but RPMs kicked back up and it drove fine but was throwing a CEL. About 6-7 hours after that I left the house and about 5 minutes after I left, it flat out died. I was able to restart with it bogging out, but not even idling until it would only crank. My guess it was using what little fuel it had in the lines. My own optimistic thinking and having the AC problem led me to believe it was the ccrm.

 

[IUP99snake]

I checked the codes and I got a FRPS Circuit Malfunction. I don't think it's the fuel rail pressure sensor though. I think it's throwing that code as a result of there being a condition of low fuel pressure. especially since that code goes away a few days after the problem goes away. But Im gonna replace it anyway and see what happens.