EDIT: 5/16/07- The blown banana is sold and I watched it peel out of here. The car has a gone to another good home where it will continue to be well cared for- Enjoy the car, Travis!
As the title states it's chrome yellow with black leather interior, and has a black top. Body has 48,500+ (this is my daily driver so the miles will increase) miles. Motor and rear have 37,000 miles, trans only has 5,000 miles.
Clean Carfax- anyone interested will receive the vin number.
Negotiable asking price is $17,500.
Just participated in an all day gtg where we went from Baltimore, Maryland over to Frederick, MD, up to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, where we joined 80 other Cobras for a spirited cruise, and then headed back home to Baltimore- awesome long distance all day cruising. This car is pretty badazz while being reliable at the same time. This car is my everyday driver.
ENGINE:
4V DOHC Teksid block
Vortech V-1 S/C at 10 psi (3.33 pulley) with after cooler and power pipe
Forged bottom end using stock crank, Manley pistons and rods at 9:1 compression
ARP bolts and studs used throughout the engine
Pro-M 77 mm MAF
BBK Long tubes
BBK catted H (gutted cats...)
Mac catback
Aluminum radiator (it is big)
SUSPENSION/BRAKES:
Eibach sport springs
* Maximum Motorsport rear lower control arms w/ adjustable spring perches
* CHE double adjustable rear upper control arms
* Spring isolators
* Bilstien struts and shocks from 03-04 Cobra
Global West welded subframe connectors
Caster/camber plates
Cross drilled rotors at all 4 corners
* EBC Greenstuff pads at all corners
* Stainless braided lines on the front with speedbleeders at every corner
FUEL SYSTEM:
Sumped stock tank with removed baffles
Stock lines/fittings have been replaced with A/N lines and fittings
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
Vortech inline filter
Vortech fuel rails
*42 lb. greentop FMS injectors
DRIVETRAIN:
TKO500 Trans
I believe it has a Pro 5.0 shifter (the shifter tower is red)
* Energy Suspension tranny mount
SPEC Stage 3 clutch
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Aluminum driveshaft w/ safety loop
FRPP 31 spline carrier
Moser 31 spline axles
FRPP 3.73's
Adjustable clutch quadrant
WHEELS AND TIRES:
Chrome OEM 17x9 03-04 rims (5k miles)
* Nitto 555r 315x35 drag radials (200 miles- no burnouts) on the rear
Goodyear F1 GS 275x40 (5k miles) on the front
ELECTRICAL:
MSD wires
MSD shift light
SCT XCal2 Tune by Jon Lund at Evolution Performance on their dyno
KB Boost a Spark
MISCELLANEOUS:
* Innovate lc1/xd16 a/f gauge
Autometer Phantom fuel pressure gauge
Autometer Phantom vacuum/Boost gauge
* Optima Red Top battery is boxed and relocated to the trunk
Battery cutoff
6 point roll bar (has been nerfed) with door swing outs
RCI 5 point race harnesses for driver and passenger front seats
Canton aluminum aftercooler tank (2k miles)
*Canton aluminum radiator expansion tank
*Fresh tune (plugs, O2's, Mobil syn oil, coolant flush, etc...) prior to the dyno tune
All parts above with a * beside them have been installed within the last month and most were brand new when installed.
** Car has been fanatically maintained- all fluid changes, tunes, and scheduled maintenance have all been done when they should be, and have been extremely well documented.
PARTS IN HAND NOT YET INSTALLED:
Canton catch can
DYNO TUNED:
* Just tuned early April '07 at Evolution Performance by Jon Lund on their Mustang Dyno. Without an extended cool down following the 2 hour trip up there, the car was strapped in. Jon Lund pulled the car to 6,000 rpm and stated the car was losing (275x40x17 radials on the rear at that time...) traction. With timing set to a conservative 17 degrees timing and with air/fuel set safely (a little fat at wot) as well- the car made 446hp and 404 ft/lbs torque. These numbers are with only 10lbs boost. Jon said the Mustang Dyno has a correction factor of 6% versus a Dynojet's numbers, so the corrected number should be 473 rwhp. With more timing, less fuel, more traction, and taking the car up to 7k I believe it would have cracked 500hp with just 10lbs of boost. The dyno graph in the pic below shows the hp was still climbing.
AREAS NEEDING IMPROVEMENT:
1) If you look at the photo below of the car on the dyno, you will see that the passenger side molding below the door has a very small gap. I haven't gotten around to replacing the the plastic trim pins that would hold it in place tightly. This is a 20 minute job and will need maybe $10 in the plastic molding pins from a resto shop.
2) There are 2 very small (3/16") side by side stars in the windshield at the very bottom on the passenger side and are way out of the driver's line of sight. These won't affect any state inspection to get the car tagged. These stars again are small, and would be an easy fix for a windshield repair guy. These stars are out of the way enough that they aren't noticeable to the driver when driving.
I am genuinely in no rush to sell the car. The only reason for considering selling this car is that prior to buying the car I had my sights set on starting a build from step one- something I have never done- and after thinking about it more I really would like to have a chance to begin a project from scratch. If our car sells for about what I am asking, great. If not, I guess I will have to keep on enjoying this car.
This car is built for spirited driving without fear of parts breaking- corners weren't cut in investing money for parts or for time in installing them.
All receipts (tons of them) will come with the car. I have the original window sticker, and certificate of authenticity from SVT.
Thanks for looking-
As the title states it's chrome yellow with black leather interior, and has a black top. Body has 48,500+ (this is my daily driver so the miles will increase) miles. Motor and rear have 37,000 miles, trans only has 5,000 miles.
Clean Carfax- anyone interested will receive the vin number.
Negotiable asking price is $17,500.
Just participated in an all day gtg where we went from Baltimore, Maryland over to Frederick, MD, up to Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, where we joined 80 other Cobras for a spirited cruise, and then headed back home to Baltimore- awesome long distance all day cruising. This car is pretty badazz while being reliable at the same time. This car is my everyday driver.
ENGINE:
4V DOHC Teksid block
Vortech V-1 S/C at 10 psi (3.33 pulley) with after cooler and power pipe
Forged bottom end using stock crank, Manley pistons and rods at 9:1 compression
ARP bolts and studs used throughout the engine
Pro-M 77 mm MAF
BBK Long tubes
BBK catted H (gutted cats...)
Mac catback
Aluminum radiator (it is big)
SUSPENSION/BRAKES:
Eibach sport springs
* Maximum Motorsport rear lower control arms w/ adjustable spring perches
* CHE double adjustable rear upper control arms
* Spring isolators
* Bilstien struts and shocks from 03-04 Cobra
Global West welded subframe connectors
Caster/camber plates
Cross drilled rotors at all 4 corners
* EBC Greenstuff pads at all corners
* Stainless braided lines on the front with speedbleeders at every corner
FUEL SYSTEM:
Sumped stock tank with removed baffles
Stock lines/fittings have been replaced with A/N lines and fittings
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump
Vortech inline filter
Vortech fuel rails
*42 lb. greentop FMS injectors
DRIVETRAIN:
TKO500 Trans
I believe it has a Pro 5.0 shifter (the shifter tower is red)
* Energy Suspension tranny mount
SPEC Stage 3 clutch
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Aluminum driveshaft w/ safety loop
FRPP 31 spline carrier
Moser 31 spline axles
FRPP 3.73's
Adjustable clutch quadrant
WHEELS AND TIRES:
Chrome OEM 17x9 03-04 rims (5k miles)
* Nitto 555r 315x35 drag radials (200 miles- no burnouts) on the rear
Goodyear F1 GS 275x40 (5k miles) on the front
ELECTRICAL:
MSD wires
MSD shift light
SCT XCal2 Tune by Jon Lund at Evolution Performance on their dyno
KB Boost a Spark
MISCELLANEOUS:
* Innovate lc1/xd16 a/f gauge
Autometer Phantom fuel pressure gauge
Autometer Phantom vacuum/Boost gauge
* Optima Red Top battery is boxed and relocated to the trunk
Battery cutoff
6 point roll bar (has been nerfed) with door swing outs
RCI 5 point race harnesses for driver and passenger front seats
Canton aluminum aftercooler tank (2k miles)
*Canton aluminum radiator expansion tank
*Fresh tune (plugs, O2's, Mobil syn oil, coolant flush, etc...) prior to the dyno tune
All parts above with a * beside them have been installed within the last month and most were brand new when installed.
** Car has been fanatically maintained- all fluid changes, tunes, and scheduled maintenance have all been done when they should be, and have been extremely well documented.
PARTS IN HAND NOT YET INSTALLED:
Canton catch can
DYNO TUNED:
* Just tuned early April '07 at Evolution Performance by Jon Lund on their Mustang Dyno. Without an extended cool down following the 2 hour trip up there, the car was strapped in. Jon Lund pulled the car to 6,000 rpm and stated the car was losing (275x40x17 radials on the rear at that time...) traction. With timing set to a conservative 17 degrees timing and with air/fuel set safely (a little fat at wot) as well- the car made 446hp and 404 ft/lbs torque. These numbers are with only 10lbs boost. Jon said the Mustang Dyno has a correction factor of 6% versus a Dynojet's numbers, so the corrected number should be 473 rwhp. With more timing, less fuel, more traction, and taking the car up to 7k I believe it would have cracked 500hp with just 10lbs of boost. The dyno graph in the pic below shows the hp was still climbing.
AREAS NEEDING IMPROVEMENT:
1) If you look at the photo below of the car on the dyno, you will see that the passenger side molding below the door has a very small gap. I haven't gotten around to replacing the the plastic trim pins that would hold it in place tightly. This is a 20 minute job and will need maybe $10 in the plastic molding pins from a resto shop.
2) There are 2 very small (3/16") side by side stars in the windshield at the very bottom on the passenger side and are way out of the driver's line of sight. These won't affect any state inspection to get the car tagged. These stars again are small, and would be an easy fix for a windshield repair guy. These stars are out of the way enough that they aren't noticeable to the driver when driving.
I am genuinely in no rush to sell the car. The only reason for considering selling this car is that prior to buying the car I had my sights set on starting a build from step one- something I have never done- and after thinking about it more I really would like to have a chance to begin a project from scratch. If our car sells for about what I am asking, great. If not, I guess I will have to keep on enjoying this car.
This car is built for spirited driving without fear of parts breaking- corners weren't cut in investing money for parts or for time in installing them.
All receipts (tons of them) will come with the car. I have the original window sticker, and certificate of authenticity from SVT.
Thanks for looking-
Last edited:
epper: :rockon:
