Front wheel bearing problems

MouTine

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Yesterday I was long trip away from home and started to hear bearing noise. Sound got worse all the time. Luckily I managed to get back home. Those are only few years old, only 25000mls old. Are they realy so crap desingn like everybody told me? How much you guys normaly drive with yours?
 

MouTine

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Problem was in passinger side. There was half inch loose play in outer edge of wheel. I replaced both sides with OEM Motorcraft / Toyo ones when I bought car almost 3 years ago. Now I'm going to go with Timken or what ever I found ASAP.

Well... I have to say I had driven flat out at fifth several times at this summer and 90-100 mph is normal highway speed for me. Plus those bearing had seen many many open track laps.
 
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SNAKEYE

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Premature failure is probably most likely due to improper lubricating and seating of the bearing, and incorrect torque on the nut, at installation.
 

MouTine

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Should I fill up that dust cap with greese when I install new ones? Shop that did work last time didn't.
 

SNAKEYE

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Should I fill up that dust cap with greese when I install new ones? Shop that did work last time didn't.

No.

Any grease in the dust cap is excess squeezed out of the bearing, which should have been wiped clean just before the dust cap was re-installed.

Wheel bearing retainer nut torque is 221-295 lb - ft!!!!! That's your entire body weight (and then some maybe) on the end on a 1-foot long wrench handle. So lean on it.
 

MouTine

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Interesting... I had been told that type of bearings and hub isn't long lasting. And when these cars was new there was many cases that Ford had to replace new assys under waranty.

Just thinking... Should I replace both sides now or only broken one?
 

amorrow

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FWIW, my passenger-side bearing failed after 6K miles. It wasn't covered under warranty, as my car was eight years old at the time. I've never really read much on the design or whether it is prone to failure, but while you're doing one side, you may as well do the other, and closely follow all instructions and torque specs. And as mentioned, make sure the bearings and grease are free of contaminents, and use high-quality components to reduce the risk of another failure. Considering the failure rate seems to be fairly low, I wouldn't consider the design too failure prone.
 

SNAKEYE

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Interesting... I had been told that type of bearings and hub isn't long lasting. And when these cars was new there was many cases that Ford had to replace new assys under waranty.

Just thinking... Should I replace both sides now or only broken one?

Unless you want to experience the whole thing all over again when you a far, far from home, don't think, do both. Make sure that they are properly greased (glob of grease in palm of hand and repeatedly "roll" the bearing through the glob), seated, and torqued.
 

Toasty

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Unless you want to experience the whole thing all over again when you a far, far from home, don't think, do both. Make sure that they are properly greased (glob of grease in palm of hand and repeatedly "roll" the bearing through the glob), seated, and torqued.

Thats wrong information.

The wheel bearing hubs on our cars are SEALED bearings which are part of a intergral wheel hub. They arent the old two piece bearing+race style. I believe the sealed one piece hub/bearings were introduced in 1994 but not exactly sure on the intro date.


To the OP: I too had a brand new set of wheel hubs last about 6k miles. When I installed the set that failed I didnt have a torque wrench that would go to 220-295 ft-lbs, so I used the 'calibrated arm' approach. After the first set went bad and started to howl I installed another set, only this time found someone that had a torque wrench that would go to 250 ft-lbs, and torqued them to that spec. I also rechecked the torque on them after a weeks worth of driving to ensure that heat cycles hadnt messed with the torque reading. Everything is perfect now after 3 seasons of summer driving.
 
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98 svt

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Thats wrong information.

The wheel bearing hubs on our cars are SEALED bearings which are part of a intergral wheel hub. They arent the old two piece bearing+race style. I believe the sealed one piece hub/bearings were introduced in 1994 but not exactly sure on the intro date.





+1

There is no such thing as replacing just the bearings. it's an entire sealed hub that needs to be replaced.. VERY EASY to do. literally takes 10-15 minutes per side.
 

MouTine

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Problem solved. Just installed brand new Timken ones (witch infact are Koyo, absolutly same than originals) into both sides.
 

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