Front Suspension. . .

srt10ram

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Long story, short, over the course of 16 hrs., I installed the POS QA1 K-member (Had to be modified to fit correctly), UPR a-arms, UPR Coil-overs, Strange struts, 4-bolt cc plates, and mac h-pipe on my 01 Bullitt. Lets just say I'll never be associated with a QA1 product again... I won't even waste my time informing them of the garbage the produce.:xpl::fm:


Now that I put this ****in puzzle together, I need an alignment badly. My driver side camber is really bad.
Should I be able to trust a normal alignment shop with the adjustments? Anything else I should do or may have forgot?

The only reason I did this whole front suspension is that I'm planning on turboing it next summer.
Will I have to undo the K again when I do turbo it? If so, I'll most likely get a kit that uses the factory headers, don't want to deal with this shit again. Or I may just get a Procharger and never **** with that POS QA1 again.I won't be anything major to the Bullitt until next summer, maybe some black Weld RTS's this winter, haven't decided if I want to sacrifice braking and turning with skinnies up front.
 
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Blkkbgt

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You are not the first person I have heard of complaining about QA-1.

Your drivers side camber is most likely bad because the position of the spindle where it attaches to the strut. The upper bolt hole is elongated to allow for additional camber adjustment. There is around 1.25 degrees of adjustment at the spindle so it can make your alignment look bad. I would set your CC plates so they are more towards positive camber but egual on each side and even out your spindle adjustment side to side. I would do it before taking it to a shop.

A good alignment shop should have no problem doing your alignment. However don't be surprised if a shop or two sends you away scared to touch your car. After installing my MM CC plates I had a shop turn me away because they weren't O.E.
 

srt10ram

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Got an alignment today, and it couldn't be set to specifications. Is there anything I can do to get it within specs?
 

LilRoush

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Which specs are still off?

Personally I'd call them and tell them the product you got sucked. See what they'll do for you. If nobody reports back to them, they might not improve the design.
 

srt10ram

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Which specs are still off?

Personally I'd call them and tell them the product you got sucked. See what they'll do for you. If nobody reports back to them, they might not improve the design.

Camber is pretty bad on driver side and the toe's a little off. Think I'm gonna add some camber bolts, since most people say the CC plates aren't even enough to adjust it.

A search of qa1 k member on google and there is nothing but complaints, so I'm guessing this joke of a company doesn't care.
 

Blkkbgt

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Your drivers side camber is most likely bad because the position of the spindle where it attaches to the strut. The upper bolt hole is elongated to allow for additional camber adjustment. There is around 1.25 degrees of adjustment at the spindle so it can make your alignment look bad. I would set your CC plates so they are more towards positive camber but egual on each side and even out your spindle adjustment side to side. I would do it before taking it to a shop.QUOTE]

Did you not read this? Did you even bother to try it? Did the shop try it?
 

srt10ram

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Your drivers side camber is most likely bad because the position of the spindle where it attaches to the strut. The upper bolt hole is elongated to allow for additional camber adjustment. There is around 1.25 degrees of adjustment at the spindle so it can make your alignment look bad. I would set your CC plates so they are more towards positive camber but egual on each side and even out your spindle adjustment side to side. I would do it before taking it to a shop.QUOTE]

Did you not read this? Did you even bother to try it? Did the shop try it?

I'll try it once I get off work. Jack the car up to where springs fully uncompressed, then loosen the bolts?

Other people with the qa1 kmember always claim you have to get fox body a arms or adj. a arms to cope with the wider front track caused by the Qa1 k. I want to keep the sway bar on, so I'll try what you said and then install the camber bolts if I cant get it lined up.

I driven the car 20-25 miles, and it doesn't pull very hard to either side, despite the negative camber.
 

franks98_coBra

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super glad i read this i was actually looking into getting this k member on american muscle. not no more..
 

srt10ram

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super glad i read this i was actually looking into getting this k member on american muscle. not no more..
This is the main reason I posted it on here, so other people won't make the same mistake. What joke of a company wouldn't state that it moves the a-arms out 1 inch on sn-95 & new edge mustangs?:fm::mj:
 

00WHTSC281

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Maximum Motor Sports! Best that is out there. Pricy but worth it. Full front kit runs around $1800.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2
 

srt10ram

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Maximum Motor Sports! Best that is out there. Pricy but worth it. Full front kit runs around $1800.

Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2

lol, no thanks, but if I was going with a hardcore road-coarse setup I might do it. The only reason I did this shitty swap is for the on3 turbo kit im doing in the spring. My car is going to see maybe 2500-3500 miles a year mostly high-way with maybe 2 or 3 trips to the drag-strip.

On another note, I installed some camber bolts (in addition to the previous installed C/C plates), and the cambers almost perfect. Going to get an alignment sometime this week.
 

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