Front cross brace bolt broken- tips to remove?

[mikes35]

I've got some jacking rails to install. When I got under the car I see where someone has broken off one of the front cross brace bolts. Any suggestions as to the best way fix? Thanks

 

[barspen]

A screw extractors kit from your HW store should do the trick. Might need to spay some penetrating oil up there if it's rusted.

You should be able to go to your local ACE\Home Depot\Lowes or the dealership to get a replacement bolt. Just bring in the 'good' bolt to match it up.

 

[avgt500]

When you drill it try to get dead center, very important.

 

[RedVenom48]

You honestly might want to give it a few days, soaking it heavily 2-3 times a day. If it was cross threaded tight to break off the bolt head, it might be impossible to remove with an extractor.

Drilling the remains of bolt out and installing a Time-Cert would be the best repair should an extractor fail to remove it.

 

[blowbye]

Screw extractor, left handed drill bits, try to weld a nut to it... But first soak in penetrating oil for at least 24 hours.

Sent from my LGLS775 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[derklug]

Honestly, it is going to be a bitch. Chances are that the reason it broke is because it is corroded in place. Penetrating oil, GOOD drill bits, patience, good easy-out set, heat if you can get a torch on it. I have a 1/8 inch pencil die grinder at work that I use after initial hole has been drilled to center the hole, and to grind out material all the way out to the threads if the bolt didn't come out with the easy-out.

 

[mikes35]

I've never had good luck removing broken bolts, usually the extractor breaks. I have been periodically spraying PB Blaster on this bolt for a while so hopefully it will help. Anyone know the best set of extractors to get? I have the straight and spiral fluted extractors. I thought I had some left handled drill bits but cannot find them. What extractors / drill bits should I be looking for? Thanks

 

[Catmonkey]

I believe it's a 12 mm bolt. You'd probably want to use a 9/32" drill and exctractor.

 

[mikes35]

After a lot of work and buying left hand drill bits and a new spiral bolt extractor set I thought I had it until half the bolt snapped off. I had to re drill and try it again but my new extractors are not long enough to get to the broken part so I had to try the old spiral and straight fluted easy outs which did not work. I got most of the bolt drilled through so I am going to tap it and move on. Question is where do I get the bolt and what size it it. I removed one from the other side and measured it with a thread pitch tool and caliper and it looks like a 12mm x 1.75 bolt. I think this is actually the rear arms of the engine cradle so it should be an engine cradle bolt but I am struggling finding the correct part. Below are a few pics.

 

[RedVenom48]

Glad you got it out! Yeah, that ****er was in there huh.

Heres a link to the replacement bolts. Enjoy!

http://parts.autonationfordwhitebea.../?part_name=engine-cradle-bolt&position=right

same p/n left or right

 

[mikes35]

Thanks..I called my local Ford parts house. They can order and have by tomorrow. Cheaper than Autonation or Tasca after you add in shipping from those folks. Their online prices are good but their shipping charges seem to make it a wash on total cost. Just an FYI, this is the best set of screw/bolt extractors I've ever used. $48 on Amazon. Irwin Hanson hex head multi spline extractors. Well worth the money! And... surprisingly the only left hand drill bits I could find locally were Harbor Freight and they were great, they cut better than some right hand cobalt bits I had.

 

[Catmonkey]

If I had a situation like yours, I'd replace all four bolts. If they overtightened one, the rest may have been stretched to their limits too.

 

[mikes35]

I actually did order 4, the reason I found this problem in the first place is because I am installing Steeda jacking rails. The one I took out on the other side of the car was so tight I thought it was going to break- probably torqued to some unreal ft lbs. I ordered a factory service manual, won't be here for a week. Maybe someone can fill me in on the torque specs? To install the jacking rails you need to remove all 4. In my research the bolts say they are one time use. From the pictures they appear to have some sort of thread locker on them.

 

[Catmonkey]

I'll look it up this evening. Does Steeda's instructions have a spec stated?

 

[mikes35]

No spec in their instructions. They say to use the factory hardware removed. Thanks

 

[Catmonkey]

Torque to 85 lb. ft.

 

[mikes35]

Thanks, I bet mine have been torqued to twice that!

 

[Catmonkey]

I'm guessing your clutch was changed at some point. These bolts are backed off to remove the transmission.

 

[RedVenom48]

They are? Hmmm thats interesting....

*puts big ass hammer away....*

 

[mikes35]

I finally got this fixed. The new bolts have a thread locking compound on them, that's why they say to use them once and if you have to remove them you need to replace them. What a nightmare to fix but now it's done! Here's a picture of the new bolt with the threadlock on it. Thanks for all the help!