Front Brakes

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[Jomo1994z71]

I will be doing this very soon. I'll have to look at the E-clip closely. I just don't understand how it holds to the caliper bolt in. I guess I will find out...

 

[Back-N-Black]

do the bolts need loctite? i just did mine this weekend, i torqued them to 55ft/lbs and i didnt use loctite

what torque should the bolts be at for the caliper mount? and should I go back and put loctite on them?

The torque on the fronts, per the manual, is 85 ft lbs for the front.

 

[SnakeBit]

If just doing a simple brake job such as this one, no need to change the brake fluid.

However, I do recommend changing/flushing it once every 2 years if you can. (I do not have a write up for it right now, perhaps when I do my flush in a few weeks I'll make some instructions as well)

Here is my take on flushing fluid. However, now I use a Motive Power Bleeder. These instructions were first written when I had Speedbleeders on my 98 Cobra.

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I took an old jar, large enough to hold at least one can of brake fluid. It's best to start with an empty can of fluid (or one which has been previously opened and sat on the shelf with old fluid). Fill the can with water and dump it into the jar (or you can use a measuring cup to start with the same ounces of water as the brake fluid can contains). Now mark the fluid level. Throw out the water and connect your bleeder hose to bleeder screw (I used to use speedbleeders, but now I use a MityVac. Both work well. Some prefer the 2-man system, so use whatever is best for you).

Take a full can of brake fluid, wipe off the top good so there is no dirt that can get into the system and clean your thumb as well, then carefully invert it onto your master cylinder (be careful you don't spill it on the paint! I use my thumb over the opening until the bottle is inverted). Now duct tape it in place so it doesn't tip over. At this point, it looks like an inverted water bottle sitting on top of the water cooler.

Now go bleed your brakes. Watch the fluid level in the jar, cause when it's close to the line you marked, then the brake fluid can on the Master Cylinder is nearly empty. If you're still bleeding, then empty the jar and put another can on the M/C and hold it in place with duct tape.

I keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean, then move on to the next wheel.

Another tip. Brake fluid WILL absorb water, so don't bother storing an open can. If you need to add just a little bit of fluid, might as well do a little flushing and use up the entire can. It's cheaper than replacing calipers because of internal corrosion. Pull your stock bleeder valve all the way out and you'll see what I mean.

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Here are some good instructions.
To season the rotors.
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=4
To Bed the Pads
http://www.baer.com/Support/TechTips.aspx?TechTipID=5

 

[stangant]

Great stuff!!

 

[408bluedog]

I seriously wonder how many freakin places know that the caliper itself is removable from the bracket. Everytime I watch my brakes get done they take the damn bracket off as well - more than one place has done this on my 03 and 04 . . . YOU ROCK!!! Im doing it myself next time

I think they have to because at shops its pretty much mandatory to turn the rotors.

 

[pkarol1]

nice write up, im gonna be using it tomorrow. changing the pads by myself for the first time, just to double check im doing everything right haha

 

[Canuck03SVT]

Thanks again for the detailed write up. It made the job infinitely easier.

 

[d-nice]

If I could add just one thing, I would apply some Anti-Squeal compound to the pads where the pad rests/buts up to the caliper. This will also aid against brake noise. Great write up though.

 

[1Kona_Venom]

If I could add just one thing, I would apply some Anti-Squeal compound to the pads where the pad rests/buts up to the caliper. This will also aid against brake noise. Great write up though.

Used this how to in conjunction with another one to do my brakes.....yes anti squeal is good (my hawk ceramics came with a packet) in addition, use Silicone Caliper Grease (Motorcraft) on the sliding pin.

No noises 1500 miles later.

TY OP for a great write up

 

[Silver TT]

This is an amazing write-up. Thank you very much for taking the time and all the detailed pictures.

Question on tools needed to perform the entire job and/or a rotor/caliper/brake line swap like I will be doing when I order the Vintage Venom F14 / R14 kit in a few weeks.

Seems like I need the following (please post specific names of tools or links of add'l tools needed if possible):

1. Motive Products - Power Bleeder:
Motive Products #1 Selling DIY Brake Bleeder

2. Loctite

3. Caliper Service Tool:
18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit

4. Brake Fluid (best recommendation for 90% aggressive street / 10% track driving?):
Motul Racing Brake Fluid [MOT77] : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!

5. Anti Squeal - for back of pads

6. High Temp Grease - for sliders


Any other major job specific tools I am missing?

 

[Anabolic]

also add clean lube sliders/ and the clean surfaces, and lube the back of each pads where caliper contacts...

 

[fordmanforever]

Does the pin that goes through (the one with the washer & c clip) go through the holes that are in the one end of each brake pad? Sorry working on a car that I think the brakes were done incorrectly and now I have a rattle from the caliper on the drivers side.

 

[DuffManRHA]

Does the pin that goes through (the one with the washer & c clip) go through the holes that are in the one end of each brake pad? Sorry working on a car that I think the brakes were done incorrectly and now I have a rattle from the caliper on the drivers side.

I know what part you are talking about and no, there is no pin that attaches there at all, just that one pin on the bottom of the caliper itself.

I posted this more on my thread in the 99/01 Cobra section, but if you are changing pads and your rotors aren't warped or gouged from letting the pads go to metal, don't get them turned just for that reason. Instead, use some 80 grit sandpaper or scotchbrite pad/wheel and hit the rotors in order to do things : the first is more important if you are changing pad brands/compounds, and that is to get the old material out, and the second is to "roughen up" the rotors to get them to bed in better and prevent glazing upon break-in of the pads. I did this with some 80 grit on my disc palm sander (not DA) and it worked great - just be sure to get garnet sandpaper or ceramic oxide and not aluminum oxide, in order to prevent taking off metal. I got all this info from various forums, as well as from Hawk Performance themselves; I didn't trust a guy making minimum wage to turn my rotors properly, and this was cheaper to boot. LMK if you'd like some pics

 

[nextime]

Thank you.

 

[Justin929]

I am having a hell of a time with the `push down the rear of the caliper`part. I am using Hawk HP pads, and i double checked part numbers. It just doesn`t seem to clear the bracket, not even close. Is it possibly just my alignment with everything? Any one with thoughts?

 

[DuffManRHA]

I am having a hell of a time with the `push down the rear of the caliper`part. I am using Hawk HP pads, and i double checked part numbers. It just doesn`t seem to clear the bracket, not even close. Is it possibly just my alignment with everything? Any one with thoughts?

Are the pads already installed in the caliper but the caliper won't go back on? I found it easier to just remove the E-brake cable from the caliper, as well as removing the bolt(s) that hold the cable along with subframe, so there is more slack and I can get the spindle bolts started before reconnecting it.

 

[Justin929]

I am talking about the front brakes. I did super zoom on the pictures and think i may have the pads on the wrong side... kind of embarrassing. I super zoomed the pictures and I think that might be the case so i'm gonna flip them and see if that seems to make more sense.

 

[spaniard]

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