One question i always had was when you first start the car after an oil change it takes several seconds for the oil pressure to read. What's actually happening and does it cause any wear?
Ford oil to Mobil 1 change - how?
- Thread starter hmwave
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Doesn't matter. Had to drive the car so just started her up and drove off. Oil pressure past the half mark on the gauge. Checked the oil two miles later and it was near min on the stick so I topped it up with a half quart of Mobil1. The level is now half way up the stick so I think I'm good to go.
Fill the filter, and let it sit for like 1/2 hour so that it gets fully saturated. Less of a mess this way too.
I switched to the Mobil 1 oil filter (M1-210). I noticed that there is a big differance between the Motorcraft 820 from the factory and the one you buy in the stores. The factory one seemed better made with twice the threads. I have noticed my filter getting loose and leaking a bit. Not the only one to have this problem. I just switched to the Mobil 1 so im not sure if it will hold better.
You can go threw this site about filters. You will find the stock filter is made by Puralator. And is of very good quality. Fram how should I say SUCKS. With that said I did have a engine failure on anther car due to the filter comming apart internally.
As far as the factory filter vs the ones sold on the shelf I called about them they are suppose to be of same construction but differant color (Silver) to show if they are factory or not. When I checked mine against the threads it didnt show more threads. I even pulled mine apart to check interior construction when I doubted the claim they were the same.
If your filter is comming loose you need to make sure that you oil your gasket and due a full 3/4 turn after gasket contact. Mobil make a excellent filter along with a few others. I use the factory Ford filter because of availibility with the 5w20 oil at wall mart and also I change my oil & filter every 500 miles. With time Im sure I will change the weight. But considering im very easy on the car and its only used to drive to and from the shows it works fine for now.
after doing some research from phone calls to online research, I found that most of the name brand Synthetic motor oils use a Base III oil, that isn't a PAO based oil, but a severly Hydrocracked petroleum oil..
Mobil 1, Amsoil and a few other small brands are still PAO (group IV) based and are true synthetics..
as far as filters go, the new Fram X2 is as good as any other filter out there, and better than most.. (costs quite abit too)...
Mobil 1, Amsoil and a few other small brands are still PAO (group IV) based and are true synthetics..
as far as filters go, the new Fram X2 is as good as any other filter out there, and better than most.. (costs quite abit too)...
Thats why filling the filter is important because of no oil pressure. fill that filter and refill till it doesnt take anymore then note if it takes a few sec of a no oil pressure. You wont see that anymore.
As far as not being important I would argue that fact. It would hard to back up data of saying no oil pressure for a few sec doesnt hurt. Even ford prefills the filters on the assembly line. I have rebuilt enough motors and seen enough bearing halfs that have a wiped bearing surface. Im not trying to flame anyone at all please dont think so. But those of you out there have purchase a 35,000 dollar car, why wouldnt somone want to do a simple best practice items that cost nothing and help ensure or possibly reduce wear from dry start up.
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