First post, have some results to share.

13BremboGT

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I'd like to start off by thanking svtperformance.com and all of the forum members, there is truly a wealth of knowledge here about these cars. :bowdown:

Picked up a '13 GT about a month ago. Exact options:
  • GT Premium, Sterling Gray, Black Leather, MT82
  • 400A
  • Reverse Sensing/Secuirty Package
  • 3.73 Axle
  • Comfort Package (Heated Seats and Holographic Pony)
  • Brembo Package
  • Rear Camera
Bought it through USAA, which knocked about $4,600 off the sticker. :rockon:

My last Mustang was a '97 Cobra with some bolt-ons. I loved that car, but I gotta say, this one blows it away in every category. My only gripes are the soft throttle response/low-end, it's TOO quiet, and the shifter. The shifter is actually very nice for just driving around town, but it let me down at the track a few times. On to the good stuff...

I ordered the FRPP GT Power Upgrade Package (M-FR1-MGTB, found it for $499 online), Amsoil SS 5W-30, EAO17-EA filter, Amsoil MTG for the trans, and their hand pump for the bottles. Signed up for their Preferred Customer deal, it's easy, knocks 25% off the cost. Yesterday morning the car was at 1,204 miles. I changed the oil and filter, swapped the trans fluid, and installed the GT500 axle backs. Then I spent the afternoon at the track.

Engine oil and filter change:
  • Checked the oil level before draining. It was at 2/3 between the MIN and MAX marks. So, no noticeable oil consumption in the first 1,200 miles.
  • 15mm drain plug, oil still looked pretty clean, nothing exciting there.
  • 3 8mm bolts to drop down the plastic cover to get to the oil filter.
  • The Amsoil EAO17-EA filter is the exact same size and shape as the factory filter. Business end looks slightly different.
  • Put 8 quarts (2 gallons) of Amsoil SS 5W-30 back in it. Oil level was at 3/4 between MIN and MAX after the change.
  • Yes, this oil quieted down all of the ticking/tapping engine noise.
Trans fluid change:
  • Drain and Fill plugs are removed with a hex wrench, you can't miss them.
  • Factory fluid came out looking pretty clean, still transparent. I've read about others saying this was not the case. No idea what the difference would be.
  • A pump of some sort is a MUST to put fluid back in this trans. The Amsoil hand pump worked great, super easy.
  • Put approximately 2.8 quarts of MTG back in the trans.
  • The trans is now a little quieter and shifts a little easier than before.....still gonna need a shifter. MGW it is...
GT500 axle-backs:
  • Loosen the clamps that connect the mufflers to the rest of the exhaust (13mm) on each side.
  • BTW, nice work on the exhaust, Ford! Those factory clamps are pretty nice.
  • Pop the rearmost (exhaust tip side) rubber hanger off the muffler, let it drop down some.
  • I unbolted the front hangers from the car and left them attached to the old mufflers, swapped them over onto the new ones on the bench.
  • Drivers side has 3 13mm bolts, passenger side has 2 13mm bolts. Had to slide the mufflers further to the rear in the forward hangers to get to one of the bolts on each side.
  • Reverse steps to put the new ones on. Easy, did it by myself in about 30 minutes.
  • MUCH better sound. Still sounds stock from inside the car on the highway, perfect. I also like the tips way better, looks good.
I have NOT gotten the Procal in the mail yet, I just submitted the voucher online Friday night. FYI, the registration requires the voucher #, your VIN, your PCM part #, and the FRPP Power Pack part #.

Here are my results from the track yesterday, all stock except the GT500 axle-backs.
  • Temp around 50 degrees all day, warmed up slightly late in the day.
  • Same story off the line every run....little traction and TONS of wheel hop (that will need to be addressed for sure, it's bad.)
  • Hit the engine cutoff in 4th right before the finish line every run.
  • Run after run.....13.2@110 w/ 2.2 60' time. EXTREMELY consistent.
  • Best run came in the afternoon when it warmed up a little....high 50's temp.
  • 12.944 sec. @ 110.46MPH w/ 2.1654 sec. 60'
  • DA calculator says it was 57 degrees and DA was -324
So.....what's the fix for the wheel hop? It's BAD! There were a couple of other '13 Brembo cars at the track with the same issue. UCA? I'm open to doing that, but I'm not willing to sacrifice the overall ride quality.....much. If it needs springs, I'd do the FRPP P springs at most. I've been down the heavily modded road before, it ain't happening with this car. I'm determined to keep the OEM driveability and comfort, it's my DD, and I have a 2 year old daughter now that has to be able to nap in it if she wants to. My ultimate goal is to get the FRPP 624hp Whipple kit for this thing....gotta save some cheddar for that, though.

More to follow after the Procal shows up...thanks again, everyone. :beer:

Update! I installed the ProCal tune on my car tonight. It delivered exactly what I wanted, MUCH better throttle response and a LOT more torque down low. Top-end feels pretty much the same, maybe slightly better. I am extremely pleased with how the car runs now, so much easier to rev match/shift and it pulls a LOT harder down low. Install was simple, as everyone knows. Did it myself and made sure to double-check that the VIN matched before loading it up. Stayed with the N octane setting and I am running 93. I have ZERO ping of any kind, I even did a WOT uphill run in 5th starting off around 2000rpm. Nothing, it just pulled. Now, the one thing that I did notice, that I have not seen mentioned anywhere yet. My cylinder head temp runs about 10 degrees hotter now than it did before. Previously, it would stay right around 194, few degrees up or down. Now it is reading 205, few degrees up or down, and the cooling fans kick on from time to time, which I had not heard before. I do not think this indicates any sort of problem, just a side-effect of a little more timing and slightly higher allowable tolerances in the tune.

I also dropped in the K&N that came with the kit. I was up in the air about it, but decided to do it since Ford deems it "part of the kit". Does it do anything? Little, if any, who knows. Why not run it the way they designed the kit. I looked up the filter on the fordracingparts website and Ford claims that it flows 22% better than stock at a certain vacuum measurement. Again, I don't personally think it does much of anything, but why not.

Now, I would love to take it right back to the track and run it some more for comparison, but I am not willing to do that again until I get the wheel hop sorted out. I have pretty much decided on swapping out the UCA and UCA mount first and see how that goes. If it's still doing it I will do the LCAs and brackets, too. After that, I will be more than happy to take it to the track again. So, other than that and an MGW at some point, the car will remain as-is until I can swing that FRPP 624 kit (assuming I can cure the hop!)
 
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SirJAG

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welcome, and nice first post.

dont keep tracking it hard till you get the hop addressed, that hopping can break shit. rear LCA (bmr) helped my buddies with his, but they still do it sometimes but only about 10% of the time so that helped a bunch. i think its the 3.73 guys that suffer the most out there, i have 3.55 and i never get hop at the track. i was running 12.9 @ 111 with 2.1 60' times stock. 2100 DA


my car still burns oil at 15K about 600-800mL per 1000miles. it was 1000-1500mL per 1000miles when it was new. mine also ticks, but as you said, the aimsoil 5-30 helped with that too.

i changed to that at 1500miles, and my engine ticked since 32miles and has not gotten worse. at this point my dealership is ready to start tring all the TSB (frond eng. cover, timeing chain, ac belt) but its not really worth it in my opinon. the ticking is not that bad. and of the 5 2011+ mustangs on my street only one of them doesnt tick!
 

old_goat

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Great detailed write up.

This should fix at least 90% of your wheel hop issues. I had LCA's on my 2013 manual GT and putting them on helped greatly.

Steeda Billet Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms - Polyurethane Bushings (05-13 All) 555-4405 - Free Shipping!

LCA34.jpg
 

13BremboGT

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Great detailed write up.

This should fix at least 90% of your wheel hop issues. I had LCA's on my 2013 manual GT and putting them on helped greatly.

Steeda Billet Mustang Rear Lower Control Arms - Polyurethane Bushings (05-13 All) 555-4405 - Free Shipping!

LCA34.jpg

Was yours a Brembo car? I'm wondering how much LCA's would really help since the Brembo cars already have the GT500 LCA's. Not saying you are wrong, I just haven't seen any definitive answers on this yet. The other piece of that question is, if the GT500 LCA's don't hook up and allow wheel hop just like the standard GT LCA's, then why'd they even bother putting them on? I'm looking for the root cause......I know LCAs would probably help, I've heard that UCAs do as well. I'd really like to keep the mods to a minimum and get rid of this wheel hop issue.
 

Kyle55R

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J&M LCAs helped a bit but I still had wheel hop. From what I have seen an upper control arm is what helps the most.
 

VETTEHUNTER

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Welcome..
My Wheelhop Remedy:

BMR LCA's
BMR Adjustable UCA...(a must if you ever plan on lowering)
BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar.

Also, I don't want to put a damper on your ProCal, but it seems the results are all over the place with those and most don't report good gains. Personally, if I were you, I would cancel your order and go with an SCT and custom tune by one of the reputable tuners in here...AED, Lund, Bama, etc.

:beer:
 
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kona12

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I have a brembo package (GT500 LCA)Ive tracked and with Slicks and so far lucky no wheel hop, I Guess it happens to some of us but I have been thinkin off gettin upper CA
 

old_goat

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Was yours a Brembo car? I'm wondering how much LCA's would really help since the Brembo cars already have the GT500 LCA's. Not saying you are wrong, I just haven't seen any definitive answers on this yet. The other piece of that question is, if the GT500 LCA's don't hook up and allow wheel hop just like the standard GT LCA's, then why'd they even bother putting them on? I'm looking for the root cause......I know LCAs would probably help, I've heard that UCAs do as well. I'd really like to keep the mods to a minimum and get rid of this wheel hop issue.

No, my car wasn't a brembo. Sorry, but I didn't think about brembo cars coming with another LCA.

I do know that aftermarket LCA helped greatly in a non brembo car.
 

13BremboGT

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Welcome..
My Wheelhop Remedy:

BMR LCA's
BMR Adjustable UCA...(a must if you ever plan on lowering)
BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar.

Also, I don't want to put a damper on your ProCal, but it seems the results are all over the place with those and most don't report good gains. Personally, if I were you, I would cancel your order and go with an SCT and custom tune by one of the reputable tuners in here...AED, Lund, Bama, etc.

:beer:
Yep, I've heard all kinds of different stuff about the ProCal as well, but those that have had good results reported exactly what I am looking for, better throttle response and low-end. It also seems like they work a lot better on the manual cars. I'm not looking for max power, just a better driving experience. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...will know in a couple of days.

I have a brembo package (GT500 LCA)Ive tracked and with Slicks and so far lucky no wheel hop, I Guess it happens to some of us but I have been thinkin off gettin upper CA
What gears? I know slicks would help, but I am only really interested in running this car the same way I run it on the street.
 

13BremboGT

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No, my car wasn't a brembo. Sorry, but I didn't think about brembo cars coming with another LCA.

I do know that aftermarket LCA helped greatly in a non brembo car.

No worries, I'm not sure that the different control arms on the Brembo cars really do much anyway....would be nice to know.
 

VETTEHUNTER

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Yep, I've heard all kinds of different stuff about the ProCal as well, but those that have had good results reported exactly what I am looking for, better throttle response and low-end. It also seems like they work a lot better on the manual cars. I'm not looking for max power, just a better driving experience. I'm keeping my fingers crossed...will know in a couple of days.

Sounds good. Good luck. I hope you are one of the lucky ones. Keep us posted.
 

old_goat

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No worries, I'm not sure that the different control arms on the Brembo cars really do much anyway....would be nice to know.

Again, I didn't think about the brembo package, I just read where you had some wheel hop issues. I think you stated you had 'tons' of wheel hop issues.

Please read these two threads. One is about my first ever trip to the track bone stock, while the other is my final trip to the track before trading the car for an auto. This second thread has some minor mods........FRPP tune, lower control arms, line lock, and MGW shifter. Car was non premium 2013 manual with 3.73 gears, stock 235/18 Pirelli tires. It also had a newbie to racing a manual car.

Hopefully this will help you out.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...irst-trip-track-baytown-texas-manual-car.html Results are in post # 12.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...pbs-today-i-think-im-getting-know-my-car.html Results are in post #1.
 
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kingnut

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90% of guys have fixed wheel hop by just lowering the car. OP where the pics at mang?
 

5.0jake

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Welcome..
My Wheelhop Remedy:

BMR LCA's
BMR Adjustable UCA...(a must if you ever plan on lowering)
BMR Adjustable Panhard Bar.

Also, I don't want to put a damper on your ProCal, but it seems the results are all over the place with those and most don't report good gains. Personally, if I were you, I would cancel your order and go with an SCT and custom tune by one of the reputable tuners in here...AED, Lund, Bama, etc.

:beer:
OP may care about warranty and the procal does make a nice difference in the low to mid area but may actually make your wheel/traction worse.
If warranty isn't an issue I'd go AED all the way along with fixing the wheel hop issue.
I will also say my brembo car has much worse wheel hop than my plain base 5.0 did.
 

Red Turtle

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Welcome and nice first post.

What was the pressure in your tires? With the cold track and 32+ psi, that could also be a big factor in the hop.

BTW, I love my Procal. :)
 

13BremboGT

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Sounds good. Good luck. I hope you are one of the lucky ones. Keep us posted.
I hope so too! Will definitely keep everyone posted on the ProCal
Again, I didn't think about the brembo package, I just read where you had some wheel hop issues. I think you stated you had 'tons' of wheel hop issues.

Please read these two threads. One is about my first ever trip to the track bone stock, while the other is my final trip to the track before trading the car for an auto. This second thread has some minor mods........FRPP tune, lower control arms, line lock, and MGW shifter. Car was non premium 2013 manual with 3.73 gears, stock 235/18 Pirelli tires. It also had a newbie to racing a manual car.

Hopefully this will help you out.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...irst-trip-track-baytown-texas-manual-car.html Results are in post # 12.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forum...pbs-today-i-think-im-getting-know-my-car.html Results are in post #1.
Good information, thank you, sir.
90% of guys have fixed wheel hop by just lowering the car. OP where the pics at mang?
Interesting, wonder if I could get away with stock shocks and P springs???
OP may care about warranty and the procal does make a nice difference in the low to mid area but may actually make your wheel/traction worse.
If warranty isn't an issue I'd go AED all the way along with fixing the wheel hop issue.
I will also say my brembo car has much worse wheel hop than my plain base 5.0 did.
:??:
Welcome and nice first post.

What was the pressure in your tires? With the cold track and 32+ psi, that could also be a big factor in the hop.

BTW, I love my Procal. :)
Factory tire pressure, haven't touched it since I picked up the car.
 

9cobra4

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Best first post of the year! Sounds like you have a good plan for mods.


Serious question, though. Why are these cars burning oil? Is it just the 13's? Or the 11-12 cars doing it as well?
 

13BremboGT

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Best first post of the year! Sounds like you have a good plan for mods.


Serious question, though. Why are these cars burning oil? Is it just the 13's? Or the 11-12 cars doing it as well?

I'm not experiencing any oil consumption issues as far as I can tell.....
 

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