gears 150.00, diff lube 30-40, frict mod est. 7, 200-400 install
irs brace 150
shifter 150-200
full length CAI 160-300
mid pipe x or h catted or offroad 120-600 (if off road MILS 30 -60)
IRS bushings 40
springs 200-250
longtubes 500-1000 install 500?? this will effect the mid pipe choice as well.
UD pulleys 150
Chip 300-500
DRs 250 install 50?
Gears are cheap -usually from 140-200 the probo is the install usually is another 250+. My opinion would be to go with gears, 4.10's, a catted x-pipe, quality catback, and a nice 100 shot. somethin like nx,nitrous works, maybe compucar. and if ya can afford it a chip.
gears +install=~$500
catted x=$500
catback=~$500
chip= ~$200-250
N20=~$800
alternatively- instead of the spray, ya could do springs,shock,struts,ccplates and a rear pinion brace with bushings for near the same price. Oh and deffinely do a shifter-$200- its worth every penny-especially if ya spray it. maybe some u/d pulleys too
I'd prolly also spend money on springs/shocks, and some good tires.
What's a good spring kit to get rid of the wheel gap? I used eibach prokit on my eclipse. But I don't want to slam it b/c that screws it up too much. I dropped my eclipse 1.3" and didn't have to get shocks, etc.
Offroad X pipe-125
BBK long tube headers-500
cat back exhaust-500
4.10 gears-140 + 260 for install-400
dual 65mm TB-325
87mm MAF-320
CAI-180
A good dyno tuned chip-500-800
Now that would be great and creating some power. Dont worry about nos yet.
H-hipe=350 with cats plus MIL eliminators=50
Flowmaster cat back=350
Mass Air Flow=250 average
cold air induction=150, or full length cold air=260(summit racing)
4.10 gears=200+install=$600
pulleys=140 average
Springs=200
Caster/camber plates=175
Shifter=180
Struts and shocks=300 on average, depending on brand
Misc parts for suspension=100
I have the flowmaster and h-pipe on and parts+install cost me $850. For the gears, springs, caster/camber plates, shocks and struts, misc parts installation from my guy is $700.
My suggestion is do the gears and all the suspension work at the same time. Since the IRS will be on the ground, you mind as well do it all, or else it will cost you double if you plan doing the gears and suspension work seperately.
In my opinion, I would not waste my time with long tubes, especially if you are having them installed. Total money for the long tubes+install is close to a grand, for what 6-8 extra horses. I have read that the stock cobra headers flow suffiently enough, except maybe when you bolt on a blower. Throttle body if you plan on supercharging it down the road, but even wait til that time comes. Have not heard to many good results from throttle body, maybe 3-4 hp gain. If you are looking to squeeze out every possible HP from the car, you can go with the throttle body and long tubes, but for half that price of long tubes and throttle body and installation, you can buy nitrous and gain 100hp(10 times the gains). Of course, this is all just my opinion.
I think for all the parts and install listed I got a total of $3,300 approximately. Someone correct me if my math sucks.
There are lots of good ideas listed in all the posts, now it is just reading up on them and finding what works best for you. LOTS of knowledge here, so READ, READ, READ.
And by the way, welcome to the world of SVT:beer:
Peace...B_S
PS. I know my profile below says 62mm throttle body, but I changed my mind after reading thought the board. Just can't seem to get my cedits to save. OH well, I will figure it out some time.
Well my goal would be to be able to hit really low 12's or high 11's w/o slicks or a supercharger. I would use nitrous prolly a 75 on the street, 100 at the track.
Now one more question before I got out and by this car. Is this car with basic mods and maybe some juice gonna own most DSM's?
b/c that's what im giving up to join you guys and I know that my engine is good, but I know almost nothing about Cobra's. I just want to make sure it's a good choice before I spend all that money.
Yes, you will own MOST DSMs and a whole crapload of others as well. Just make sure you put that power to the ground right. The rest will take care of itself.
I would stay with the DSM if you dont know anything about Cobras. There are some really fast DSM's out there and they have AWD. Just go get a big single turbo setup and run with it. Thats my advice instead of learning everything new. A turbo DSM would be able to take a n/a 01 Cobra. And you said that you wanted n/a. Im not sure if you will get High 11's n/a. BUT, if you dont want a turbo in your DSM, then get the Cobra bc it will be much faster.
How much can the stock pistons handle? If I went nitrous for this year and then bought a supercharger next winter?
Well my DSM is FWD.....so i'd have to get an AWD and start all over, and then you have crankwalk, it's still a 4cyl, and after about 400hp you need to upgrade internals....it just seems that a v8 would be able to handle just about ne thing