finished my UPR k, pacesetter headers, coilovers, cc plates.

[JAYSVT06]

Continuation thread of this
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums/terminator-talk-229/909177-thought-id-share-pics-my-k-member-upr.html

I just finished this setup, with the following

96-04 upr k member
12-250lb coil over springs, amp performance 03 04 cobra coilovers
energy suspension motor mounts
I used factory bilstein struts bc they have internal bumpstops this way you will have no noise on a coil over setup.
4 bolt ebay cc plates, 115.00 these are awesome with great bearings, no noise at all driving it.
new bushings for stabilizers
stage 8 locking header bolts
pacesetter longtube headers with matching x pipe
upr bumpsteer kit

First thing you need to do, is take an allen wrench and put it into the strut ontop of the strut tower, then take a wrench while holding the allen wrench in the strut and brake that nut loose,
then take quite a few measurements. I took measurements from inside of the tire to other side on inside
also strut tower to fender, and center of hubcap to fender.
I wanted to get it as close as possible as the way it was for when i go to get an alignment done.

now you want to get the car as far up in the air as you can, i placed wooden blocks under the rear tires and jack stands on the frame rails and removed the front tires,

now its time to remove the rotors, brake calipers struts and cc plates, and the spindles
note : the abs sensor takes a special socket, its called an E BIT, e8 torx bit socket female end to remove, i had to go purchase this.
I took a jack and placed it under the control arm and jacked it a few times to compress the spring to loosen everything and slowly let the jack down, as the spring is under pressure, this was very easy to do. also remove the stabilizer bars on swaybar.

now i purchased the harbor frieght engine support bar, and put the chains on the timing cover bolts, as u see below, this was safe as i held the engine up for several days with no problems as i tackled this install.
Also to be safe i placed a jack under the transmission for backup.
This engine bar is a must, because when you goto to put the longtubes on u can raise and lower the engine per side your working on.

 

[JAYSVT06]

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y264/jbrownwhitetiger/IMG_8892_zps0bedabdc.jpg[/IMG

next i removed the steering rack bolts and tied it to the swaybar.
[ATTACH=full]448421[/ATTACH]

now its time to remove the stock k member, first unloosen the motor mount nuts, then there is 8 bolts holding the k member in place. Also remove the steering shaft bolt and slie it out of the way. and mark it so u lign it back up right.
:lol:
I gradually loosened each bolt and with a jack and piece of wood i placed it under the k member and gradually let it down watching to make sure it didnt hit anything, its good to have a buddy at this point to help with dropping it.

Next i sprayed all the manifold bolts with penetrating oil and let them soak really good. All of the studs came out when i removed them. be very careful as the heads are aluminum and very easy to strip
[ATTACH=full]448422[/ATTACH]

at this time i went in and cleaned up the block and painted it with high temp flat black
[ATTACH=full]448423[/ATTACH]

next its time to remove the oil dipstick tube.

now its time to put the longtube headers on.
I had absolutely no problem with the driver side at all, i could reach all the bolts and get them started with sockets, wrenches etc.

[ATTACH=full]448424[/ATTACH]

now passenger side is another story, i had to cut on the frame sum to make room to keep header from being scratched, also found it easier to remove the starter as well. I had to leave 1 stud on the top left hole, very first. there is no way to get a bolt started in there and have room.
So i left stud in there, then used locking bolts on all the rest. I barely had room get my wrench in there, this is with the engine lowered as far as i could get it on that side without hitting anything up top
[ATTACH=full]448425[/ATTACH] this was b4 i cut on the frame a lil bit, u dont have to do much just enough, 1/4 inch or so.

[ATTACH=full]448426[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]448427[/ATTACH] i used this tool, i call it a "crows foot" to tighten the ones on top as they are very hard to reach on passenger side.

[ATTACH=full]448428[/ATTACH]

now your ready for the x pipe.
I bought a high temp silver paint and coated my xpipe first b4 i put it on.
[ATTACH=full]448429[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=full]448430[/ATTACH]

now i was ready to put in the new tubular k member, u have to bend the brake lines just a bit on the passenger side to let em slide around the k member. The bolt holes are slotted on the passenger side as well, this is because on the early model mustangs there a little wider in different, the driver side holes you cant screw up they fit snug and tight and will line up ur passenger side holes perfect, so there is no way to get the k member not straight imo...
[ATTACH=full]448431[/ATTACH]

 

[JAYSVT06]

was ready for the coilovers, i sanded my struts down and repainted them.
U have to drill a 4th hole for the cc plates, you just take the passenger side bottom plate for driver side for passenger side and place it on top and mark your hole, and repeat for other side. then drill your holes

now your ready for the coil overs, after you put the spindles on, i cleaned my spindes up and repainted them. i wanted everything new and perfect

also the spacer setup i chose on the cc plates was as follows

also i would like to note taht i had to purchase the 3/8th spacer kit bc my blower hit the strut tower on top. so this is the blower after the spacer kit installed

i hope this helps, here is the finished result

car was sittin a lil low, gonna raise it up sum.

all the old stuff removed

 

[10sec89]

Nice write up!

 

[kevin01cobra]

If only I would have seen this earlier. Put Pacesetters on last month, gasket went out, purchased a k member(no A arms) since I'm not lifting that heavy ass stock one again. I definitely would have thrown the tubular K on the first time! Would have made this gasket repair much easier.
Hell of a write up!

 

[JAYSVT06]

Thanks guys and im just a 24 yr old nursing graduate not a master mechanic so it can be done! Lol i had my dad help drill holes for cc plates and i had drill my spindles for new tie rod bolts

 

[sean r]

Nice work. How many hours did all that take.

 

[gabe1530]

nice work! go drive it and report back please i really want to know how that UPR k feels on the street since its the newer version.

 

[SVTRAT]

How are the stock bushing on the front arms?

 

[Vicious805cobra]

Nice rite up :beer:

 

[JAYSVT06]

How are the stock bushing on the front arms?

The bushings come with it are fine,
N quiet. No noise, i did use o ring grease on all bushings inside and out though, also i did not have to grind tabs off motor mounts this k member has proper line up holes for them,
I let everyone know how it goes after the alignment,

 

[JAYSVT06]

Nice work. How many hours did all that take.

I didnt keep track, i just hit it a lick or two on my off days, and i sanded alot of things down and repainted them n did alot of cleaning, repainted the struts, spindles, stabilizer bars n replace with poly bushings, aslo did poly bushings on the steering column as well. I had to take header back off on passenger side after i seen i couldnt reach that one hole, soi had sum time in it. I never seized all the bolts, and greased all the bushings, and just took my time, the weather has been bad here last couple months so i was in no hurry. Just now warming up here and gettin salt cleaned off the roads.

 

[96juicedGT]

Lookin good buddy. Hope to see it sometime this year at the track.

 

[Blackedout]

Nice rite up :beer:

Agreed... :beer:

 

[soccerman002]

Question - can't you use an allen head on those Stage 8 bolts? If so (correct me if I'm wrong), would the use of an allen head socket given you more clearance to tighten the bolts versus using a crows foot?

 

[JAYSVT06]

Lookin good buddy. Hope to see it sometime this year at the track.

ahh rear end is stock until next winter, im gonna drive it n enjoy it all summer n show it, maybe few roll races on street:coolman:
then in winter ill take rear end out n do a full tilt boogie kit

Agreed... :beer:

:rockon:

Question - can't you use an allen head on those Stage 8 bolts? If so (correct me if I'm wrong), would the use of an allen head socket given you more clearance to tighten the bolts versus using a crows foot?

yes u can, but that top left bolt there is absolutely like zero room to do anything, plus a wrench instead of a allen head is much better for torquing the bolt and less likely to strip it for the hard to reach ones, and first top left stud i gladly left in there, and barely with 2 fingers could get the nut started on the stud, as u can see i barely got the wrench in there and its a ratchet wrench! or it woulda been insane... this was with the engine lowered and turned to the side on the passenger side... i found it easier for me to do it this way.. im content with all stage 8 locking header bolts and new oem metal gaskets in all the holes and leaving 1 stud, which prob wouldnt back out anyways, but it started up with zero leaks! and the car sounds great! much deeper exhaust tone, i love it

alot of people use the factory studs, if this is the case then it prob wouldnt be to bad of a job, but i like all new when i do something lol

 

[sn94cobra]

Where did you get the x pipe from?

 

[JAYSVT06]

Where did you get the x pipe from?

Pacesetter on amazon

 

[MTBSully]

Nice man! I finished mine a month or so ago with MM a arms and coilovers. Still need to cut my steering rack bolts and install the bumpsteer kit

 

[cbr repsol]

Looks good ,glad it worked out for u.