First, a list of my current mods:
2.93" Pulley
Diablo Chip by Rick
Gatorback Serpentine Belt
12" K&N Filter in engine bay
Stock exhaust, minus mufflers
Tri-Ax Shifter
MM Subframe Connectors
Battery Relocation Kit
Pyrometer from AutoMeter (Currently being fixed...)
Digital Fuel Gauge from Dynotune
Bottle Heater off E-bay, NOS part
Autometer Dual Pillar Gauge Pod
MM IRS Subframe Bushings
Nitto 315-35-17s on back
Nitrous system and dyno tuning performed by Brian and Phil at Shelley's Performance and Dyno Center here in Spokane. (509)891-0177
I pieced together this nitrous system, using e-bay to my greatest advantage. Basically, two nitrous solenoids, one for nitrous and one for purge, plus a fuel solenoid. I used Terry's (from SFPHQ) boost activated nitrous controller, no RPM limiter etc since the ECU drops boost first at redline. For the actual delivery, I used a basic fogger NOSzle tapped directly into the intake plenium. All the solenoids are mounted below the K&N filter, and covered with conduit so they look totally stock, unless you know what you are looking for. The purge system is totally original and very trick, done by Brian at Shelley's performance. He used a stainless steel brake line, painted black to make it look stock, and ran it up in front of the radiator. He made a Y using a brake fitting right under the mustang mounted on the front of the car, with about 1/4 inch of brake line exposed through the plastic. The purge is really quite impressive, a "V" of nitrous shoots up about 5 feet!
The arming switch is mounted in the change holder where you would have a toggle switch for a convertable, right behind the shifter. Next to it you have your purge button, and on the other side he mounted the tiny red light that comes with Terry's boost activated nitrous controller. This light lights up when you are at your set boost level, where the nitrous would hit if you have the bottle on. The bottle heater switch is mounted next to the shifter.
Two guys from the local speed forum were on scene to get a video of the dyno runs. They drive 350Zs, so they are not biased lol. I don't want to use up all their bandwidth, so PM me if you want to see all of the runs.
Final numbers 531 RWHP and 595 RWTQ. Total parts cost for EVERYTHING, not just nitrous: $1340. Hearing someone on our local board who has been making fun of me for driving a "rustang" eat his words, PRICELESS! See below
As soon as I get the final video loaded on my personal web space, I will include a link. Damn military computers won't let me access my account... grrr....
2.93" Pulley
Diablo Chip by Rick
Gatorback Serpentine Belt
12" K&N Filter in engine bay
Stock exhaust, minus mufflers
Tri-Ax Shifter
MM Subframe Connectors
Battery Relocation Kit
Pyrometer from AutoMeter (Currently being fixed...)
Digital Fuel Gauge from Dynotune
Bottle Heater off E-bay, NOS part
Autometer Dual Pillar Gauge Pod
MM IRS Subframe Bushings
Nitto 315-35-17s on back
Nitrous system and dyno tuning performed by Brian and Phil at Shelley's Performance and Dyno Center here in Spokane. (509)891-0177
I pieced together this nitrous system, using e-bay to my greatest advantage. Basically, two nitrous solenoids, one for nitrous and one for purge, plus a fuel solenoid. I used Terry's (from SFPHQ) boost activated nitrous controller, no RPM limiter etc since the ECU drops boost first at redline. For the actual delivery, I used a basic fogger NOSzle tapped directly into the intake plenium. All the solenoids are mounted below the K&N filter, and covered with conduit so they look totally stock, unless you know what you are looking for. The purge system is totally original and very trick, done by Brian at Shelley's performance. He used a stainless steel brake line, painted black to make it look stock, and ran it up in front of the radiator. He made a Y using a brake fitting right under the mustang mounted on the front of the car, with about 1/4 inch of brake line exposed through the plastic. The purge is really quite impressive, a "V" of nitrous shoots up about 5 feet!
The arming switch is mounted in the change holder where you would have a toggle switch for a convertable, right behind the shifter. Next to it you have your purge button, and on the other side he mounted the tiny red light that comes with Terry's boost activated nitrous controller. This light lights up when you are at your set boost level, where the nitrous would hit if you have the bottle on. The bottle heater switch is mounted next to the shifter.
Two guys from the local speed forum were on scene to get a video of the dyno runs. They drive 350Zs, so they are not biased lol. I don't want to use up all their bandwidth, so PM me if you want to see all of the runs.
Final numbers 531 RWHP and 595 RWTQ. Total parts cost for EVERYTHING, not just nitrous: $1340. Hearing someone on our local board who has been making fun of me for driving a "rustang" eat his words, PRICELESS! See below
As soon as I get the final video loaded on my personal web space, I will include a link. Damn military computers won't let me access my account... grrr....
