Sounds like you know what you are doing. Good luck with it.
Finally finished the brakes...almost
- Thread starter Bingo13
- Start date
there is also a process called Cryo dipping. they claim that dipping the crossdrilled rotors in liquid nitrogen makes them less suseptable to cracking. I can't remember the name of the website. I will post it if I can remember.
Hey bingo they do look sweet.
Did you follow all of the procedures for proper "Bedding" If you didn't and cheated cause you got in a hurry you might somewhere down the road wished you had. Bedding your pads and rotors is a very important step to performance rotors and pads. Also please post pics when you get the Alcons on
Hey bingo they do look sweet.
Did you follow all of the procedures for proper "Bedding" If you didn't and cheated cause you got in a hurry you might somewhere down the road wished you had. Bedding your pads and rotors is a very important step to performance rotors and pads. Also please post pics when you get the Alcons on Hey bingo ya mean those extra holes in the front fascia arent for more lights
what's this svt upgrade? is it for routing ducts from the air intakes near the fog lights to the front brakes?
where can i get this? any info on it?
thanks
marwane.
where can i get this? any info on it?
thanks
marwane.
Bingo13,
First off, the set up looks impressive. VERY IMPRESSIVE!.
My only comment, and the FLAMES WILL START, is you gain more in appearance with drilled and slotted rotors than in performance enhancements. I'm not going to go into the engineering aspects of my comments because it will only add to the flames, but it is a fact. If I had some extra money to toss around I would consider changing out the rotors to add to the look of the car. I will state again, a drilled and slotted rotor OF THE SAME SIZE will not perform are well as a solid rotor in most conditions. You might have some gains in very wet conditions.
Now changing the pads will MAKE A BIG difference. I changed all my pads after 1 week of getting the car. The stock brakes on the 03 are pretty damn good. The pads are subject, but the rest is more than adequate for most driving condition.
And yes, I have worked in this part of the industry for many years.
Again, GREAT LOOK and ENJOY!
Mac03Cobra
First off, the set up looks impressive. VERY IMPRESSIVE!.
My only comment, and the FLAMES WILL START, is you gain more in appearance with drilled and slotted rotors than in performance enhancements. I'm not going to go into the engineering aspects of my comments because it will only add to the flames, but it is a fact. If I had some extra money to toss around I would consider changing out the rotors to add to the look of the car. I will state again, a drilled and slotted rotor OF THE SAME SIZE will not perform are well as a solid rotor in most conditions. You might have some gains in very wet conditions.
Now changing the pads will MAKE A BIG difference. I changed all my pads after 1 week of getting the car. The stock brakes on the 03 are pretty damn good. The pads are subject, but the rest is more than adequate for most driving condition.
And yes, I have worked in this part of the industry for many years.
Again, GREAT LOOK and ENJOY!
Mac03Cobra
Looks Nice
Originally posted by jumpincactus
there is also a process called Cryo dipping. they claim that dipping the crossdrilled rotors in liquid nitrogen makes them less suseptable to cracking. I can't remember the name of the website. I will post it if I can remember.
Hey bingo they do look sweet.
http://www.cryocore.com/
Originally posted by jumpincactus
there is also a process called Cryo dipping. they claim that dipping the crossdrilled rotors in liquid nitrogen makes them less suseptable to cracking. I can't remember the name of the website. I will post it if I can remember.
Hey bingo they do look sweet.
http://www.frozenrotors.com/
The SVT upgrade is nothing more than 4 pads frt.&rr.The stopping distance is at least 6-8 mph quicker from 70-0.If you really want to stop get the 18" wheels and the brembo GT 70-0 in 96 ft.I t blows Baer away.Dave S. and use the SVT pads and Brembo enhanced RR. all for about 3-3300,installed.Dave S.
Since you signed up... ;-)
In your opinion, is there an advantage to cross drilled, or slotted rotors (individually, not cross drilled and slotted)?
If so or if not, which do you think is better and why?
Thanks,
Well, let me tell you what I've heard from a few sources. Iv'e gotten conflicting information, but by and large the following statements are the majority of opinions...
1. Crossdrilling was started early on to allow hot escaping pad gases a place to go. With today's pad compounds, these gases are pretty much non-existant (along with the need for cross-drilling). They're just there for the pimp-daddy-factor.
2. Slotting rotors helps facilitate pad cleaning. The idea being that the slots scrape off pad glazing under heavy braking.
When I ordered my Wilwood 6-piston front kit, I got the rotors cross-drilled, slotted, & zinc plated. I only wanted the slots & plating, but couldn't get them plated without holes. After a year and a half of spirited (sometimes high-speed
) stops, I've noticed some hairline cracks forming radially around my cross-drilling. Hope my rotors don't detonate on me. :rollseyes So, if I had it to do all over again, I wouldn't get the holes & I would get them zinc washed someplace else.
Russ
Brake pads
Does anybody have a sit for the brake pads?
Thanks, POY ZIN
Does anybody have a sit for the brake pads?
Thanks, POY ZIN
I think there is an advantage to the slotted rotors for keeping the brake pads from glazing over along with some minor cooling advantages (depends on the swept area available and vane design). The cross-drilled/slotted rotors on the Porsche do offer some minor advantages in the wet since the holes are actually cast-in, directional with the vanes, and are about half the size of most drilled rotors. Of course with the Brembo "Big Red" calipers they stop very quickly time after time. ;-)
The following is from Baer regarding cross drilled rotors. I did not go with them because they are bling bling or expected noticable "improvements" because they are cross drilled/slotted rotors. I have always had very good experiences with the Baer/Alcon combination on the street and light track work. They work for me and stop the car better than the stock configuration. I think you can never go to far in the braking department.
From the Baer Racing Q & A section:
Q: I don’t want to spend the money for a complete brake upgrade. Do you offer cross drilled rotors to work with my factory brakes?
Yes. Although there are some companies which sell cross-drilled rotors as an actual performance upgrade, in our extensive testing we have seen no improvement to be had by simply crossdrilling stock rotors. This is why Baer has developed EradiSpeed™ rotor upgrades for a variety of applications. Although it is true the crossdrilling, the slotting, or for that matter the zinc surface washing, are cosmetic enhancements, EradiSpeed™ rotor packages also feature rotors with thicker cheeks to provide more heat sink capacity in the fire path of the rotor. Also, they all feature directional vanes for greater pumping efficiency, as well as a two-piece design where the hat, or hub/hat section of the rotor is CNC machined from a solid billet of aluminum and is then fixed to the rotor ring using National Aviation Standard (NAS) stainless hardware. In other words, the EradiSpeed™ is much more than just the most visually appealing direct replacement rotor, it is the only upgrade of its type which can actually deliver the benefits of greater heat absorption, increased durability and lighter total weight.
In racing, crossdrilling was designed to alleviate a problem known as out-gassing. In some of the older pad compounds, when the pads reached elevated temperatures consistent with performance or racing use, the binder (that’s the material that holds the friction material in place) boiled off, producing a gas. This gas would build up between the rotor and the brake pad, effectively keeping the pad from directly contacting the rotor. The holes provide a relief path for these gasses, as do slots, so the pad can once again contact the rotor. Crossdrilling was NOT designed to facilitate cooling.
Although Baer offers crossdrilling as an option on their systems, it is offered as a cosmetic option only. However, with an EradiSpeed™ rotor upgrade, unlike a cosmetically altered stock replacement rotor, you will benefit from improved durability, greater heat sink capacity, lighter total weight and the visual excitement of a 2-piece, aluminum centered, crossdrilled, slotted and zinc washed appearance.
I hope this helps.
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Re: Brake pads
You can go to LinkY for very good prices on the Hawk series of pads. The HPS pads are great for the street and will give you an easy 5% improvement in the braking on this car.
You can go to LinkY for very good prices on the Hawk series of pads. The HPS pads are great for the street and will give you an easy 5% improvement in the braking on this car.
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I agree completely. I have the 13.5" on the front now and 12" on the rear. A slight upgrade from the stock sizes that almost equate to the stock swept area. There are additonal benefits in the rotor design (not the bling bling items)and caliper choice that I feel will still offer better than stock performance for my applications. I also have the 14" rotors for the front that I will use with the Alcon calipers. I would rather have the 18" wheels back on the car but there is enough clearance to use the 14" up front.
Pad choices offer a significant improvement for both the stock system and my upgrade choice. The second modification I did to the car was changing the pads. The front Brembo setup along with the PBR calipers are an excellent street setup for the car along with some choice pads. I felt for light track work, autocross, and banzi runs that I needed more in this area.
I like the performance improvements I have experienced and the bling bling factor does not hurt when lining up against a ricer. ;-)
I finished the bedding of the pads yesterday and will report my conclusions later this evening. Yes, I was anal enough to do some 60-0 testing in stock, stock plus pads, and baer/stock calipers. I will do some 70-0 tesing with the stock calipers and Alcon calipers next week on these rotors.
Bingo13,
don't lie, you got it for the bling bling...at least that's what you told me and evilcarman at lunch. you said the next thing was carpet on the dashboard and dice in the mirror. just kidding. the brakes look great. sold me on them, but not quite yet. still trying to find a 2.80 pulley...know where i can get one?
don't lie, you got it for the bling bling...at least that's what you told me and evilcarman at lunch. you said the next thing was carpet on the dashboard and dice in the mirror. just kidding. the brakes look great. sold me on them, but not quite yet. still trying to find a 2.80 pulley...know where i can get one?
:lol:
If you are going to spill my secrets then you should at least mention the curb feelers, bobbing head doll, eight track, and three wing spoiler setup in the garage. Of course none of this matters unless I apply the 183 stickers gathered from various F&F conventions along with the 50lbs of vinyl graphics from J.C.Whitney. I was using that extra 2.80 pulley as a shift knob but I can probably let you have it now that the 2 Speed Powerglide automatic is on order. I also have a JLP 2.7 pulley I am using on my fake but chromed 20lb NOS bottle if that helps. ;-)
p.s. It was shag carpet on the dash and console areas to match the fake sheepskin car seat covers. I went with a nice clear vinyl rear seat cover in case the girls go wild over my bling bling. I still think your idea of carbon fiber sun visors will work. I still cannot decide on neon running lights for the sub-frame connectors or a three unit air horn with reflectors on the roof.
:beer:
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