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Finally back to the track after rebuild

Discussion in 'Time Slip Bar' started by Gruca, May 30, 2019.

  1. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    Peotone IL
    In May 2018, I went to the track and ran a [email protected] but then broke my OPGs. I rebuilt the motor with forged internals, put in a Mantic clutch, and an Eaton Truetrac. I also changed slicks to a stiffer tire.

    Last night I finally made it back to the track. I started with higher tire pressure and didn’t run too well. I ran a [email protected] with a 1.78 60’, only revving it to around 7,300. Was running Ignite Red E85.

    So I started lowering tire pressure and bringing the revs up to 7,800. I got out of the hole pretty well (1.5 60’ times) but after that the car was all over the track. I gave it about 4 tries before saying screw it.

    On that last attempt, I made it about 500 feet when the engine light started blinking. I shut it down and pulled the codes. P300, P301, and P306. So cylinder 1 and 6 were misfiring. The car drive completely normal when bringing it to a stop. I got back to my parking spot, nothing odd happening while getting there, minus the engine light blinking. I cleared the codes and did a crank relearn, and the codes haven’t been back since. Drove it 45 miles home going 60mph and then to work this morning in stop and go traffic at 45mph. No codes, nothing seemingly wrong happening while driving.

    So this makes me think it was spark blowout. I’m fairly certain I gapped the plugs last summer to 0.028. I’m going to pull them all tonight and check them. I’m hoping it’s just that and not a coil with low voltage or some other issue I haven’t thought of. I also need to figure out why the car is all over the track. A shop owner here in the Chicagoland area pointed toward the rear axle being out of center or not aligned with the front, so I’ll start there.

    Gotta love driving that far only to get 4-5 shit runs in that all but one requires shutting down due to either damn near crashing or misfires...I was wondering if the Ignite Red might’ve been the culprit for the misfiring, as I’ve never had the issue before and that was the only thing different. But that’s just a giant assumption as I have no idea or experience with it...
     
  2. IronTerp

    IronTerp Mid-Atlantic Cobra Assoc. Moderator

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    What’s your car/setup?
     
  3. GNBRETT

    GNBRETT Well-Known Member Established Member

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    It's either bad spark plug(s) which imo is what ur issue is or they are not gapped properly. I bet if u swap the plugs ur issue will be solved. Ur not likely gonna see any issues till ur WOT. Idle and normal driving may not set the code off.
     
  4. blownstang4.6

    blownstang4.6 Active Member Established Member

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    Change plugs and see how it does. Who tuned it after the motor build? Hoping you don't say Drew. Do you still have your old slicks? I'd try those again if they worked for you before and you didn't change anything with the suspension.
     
  5. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    I have a 14 GT with a Paxton on a 3.33 pulley and a return fuel system on E 85. It has lower control arms with relocation brackets in the middle hole and a upper control arm, both BMR. It has Koni oranges all around on Steeda sport springs. Adjustable panhard bar and Steeda tie rod ends. Kooks super street shorties, lethal catless x, and lethal OTAs. Tuned by AED.
     
  6. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    No, tuned by AED. I sold the old slicks, of course. Truetrac is the only other thing I changed.
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2019
  7. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    I pulled all of the plugs and they all look fine. I checked the gaps and a few were .028 and most of them were .030. I was hoping to find something worse...not sure 15psi of boost would caused these to blowout. I’m going to replace them all anyway (NGK 6510s in the car now getting replaced with the same kind).
     
    Last edited: Jun 30, 2019
  8. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    duplicate...
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
  9. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    Duplicate
     
  10. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    Pressure tested the radiator. Heard some gurgling at the thermostat, so I tightened that up...and then found all this pooled up between the heads and the intake manifold.
     

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  11. Riddick

    Riddick MERICA Established Member

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    I have been following your build since you were on your stock motor. Sorry to hear about your bad track outing. Thats an odd place for the coolant to be pooling up, any idea where its coming from?
     
    Gruca likes this.
  12. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    The thermostat housing bolts were really loose. The coolant hose going into the housing wasn’t clamped down tight enough either. I went ahead and tightened as many things coolant related as I could reach. I’ve been driving it around today and checking for coolant, nothing yet. Hoping I got it corrected.
     
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  13. Shadow Grey 03

    Shadow Grey 03 Well-Known Member Established Member

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    Glad it doesnt seem to be anything major. It always seems to be a bitch to get a new combo to do what it should at first. Keep at it. I'm hoping to see some new bests out of you here soon.
     
    tvspower and Gruca like this.
  14. 4VFTW

    4VFTW Well-Known Member Established Member

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    .030 is way too much gap and will definitely cause blowout. Put new plugs in it and gap them .026
     
  15. Nadirt 5.0

    Nadirt 5.0 New Member

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    I have the same issue, i just rebuilt my coyote engine 2011 with new internals, and the driving is pretty normal, but when i floor it, or it has a hard driving, the check engine blinks, i tried changing coils of position, inyector, and spark plugs, and it still throwing the same DTCs codes P0300, P0303 an P0305, i have readen about the crank sensor o ring, and a put a new one, because it didnt has when i checked, so, the problem stills, Does it need to be relearn?
     
  16. tvspower

    tvspower Active Member Established Member

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    Maybe recheck your coils.... friend had similar issues
    they found cracked coil with a magnifying glass
    Just saying......
     
  17. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    Mine was caused by two injector o-rings that were the wrong size. I did a boost leak test and sure enough, the same two cylinders I had misfires on were leaking air. Changed out the o-rings and the boost leaks are gone.
     
  18. Nadirt 5.0

    Nadirt 5.0 New Member

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    i already changed of place each injector, so , it still throwing the same dtc codes (missfire), even with different position
     
  19. TTUhouston

    TTUhouston Mechanical Engineer Established Member

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    Can't wait to see what it will do back at the track! Glad you found the issue. Where did you get the wrong size o-ring (meaning, did you buy new o-rings and get the wrong size or did it come with old kit, etc)?
     
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2019
  20. Gruca

    Gruca Active Member Established Member

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    I had a kit that had a bunch of different o-rings in it. I changed out two of them with ones that weren’t thick enough.

    Probably won’t be back to the track anytime soon. Every time I go, I break something. Tired of replacing axles lol. The stock ones and Strange ones both bent on slicks. Just going to enjoy the car for a while.
     

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