Fighting Rust on 96 Cobra

RickwithCobra

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BLUFF: Do I invest in a MIG Welder and attempt to fix rust myself on the frame below the strut tower and the frame connecting to the rear bumper reinforcement which is going to require purchasing a MIG Welder or Do I pay a shop to do it?
Also I zero experience welding


Current status of Rust on the Cobra: see pics


1. The Rust located on the frame rails below the Strut Towers is not horrible, its has not spread or eaten all the way through to the engine bay since I cannot poke a whole with a screw driver into the engine bay, however, I can poke a whole through What I belief is a thin piece of sheet metal inside the frame rail going towards the headlight. So if I do take this project on myself, is it recommended to cut into the frame by cutting the top of the rail off or the outside side of the frame rail where the brake lines are?


2. The Rust located on the Rear Frame Rails doesn’t look terrible I just want to stop it from spreading and getting worse so I am really look to see what you guys think the difficulty level of cleaning out the inside of the frame rails is? My thoughts are I would cut straight into the back end of the frame where it meets the bumper reinforcement which would give me easy access to the inside of the frame rails unless there is a better way to get in there?


My Background: I am by no means a mechanic but consider myself mechanically inclined. My limited experience is doing: Long Tube headers (dropping K member), H-Pipe, Catback, shocks/struts and springs all around, IMRC cleaning, CAI, brakes, dropping the k member, solid steering rack bushings, inner/outer tie rods, under drive pulleys, water pump, clutch, throw out bearing, plugs, wires, and oil cooler and adapter gaskets.


Obviously If I do this myself I plan on covering the areas in POR 15.



Or


Do I just pay a body shop to do all the above work? I am assuming it will be more expensive then buying a welder but would hopefully be higher quality work? Also I am new to the area I live in and have not spent the time looking into trustworthy shops yet.


Next project in the following six months: Griggs subframes and through the floor subframe connectors, new oil pan (pan is pretty rusted but still operates fine), and timing cover gasket (small coolant leak)


Lastly does anyone know where I can buy a 96 mustang cobra fuel pump assembly?? It seems like all the ones for sale online are for all the other mustang makes and models with a small disclaimer saying: will not fit 96-97 mustang cobras…..
 

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M91196

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Sandblasting looks to be in order first. These jobs are not for the feint of heart if they are to done right. Hard to do it well without the tools......
 

RickwithCobra

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Would I be able to accomplish the same results with an electric drill and some wire brush attachments as I would with a sand blast?
Also would I still need to cut into the frame rail below the strut tower or would I be able to get a sandblaster in there from the wholes in the top and sides?


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com
 

M91196

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If there is rust at a joint, like I am seeing, you can expect rust were you can’t see. If you don’t get 100% of it it will be back in no time. I don’t think a wire wheel does what’s needed to accomplish that. But I am not a professional.
Rust restoration is a huge money sucking pain in the a$$ to do right and done well you can’t tell you spent a nickel on it.
 

Tillerman77

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If you are considering a shop, you should check with Tyler at tko resto in Louisville, which looks to be roughly 4 hours away. His shop specializes in SN95 and New Edge body and mechanical work.
Contact information is listed in his YouTube channel.
https://www.youtube.com/user/tkoresto
 

Recon

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^ that’s who I’m considering doing the paint work on my Mach 1. He does good work shown on his YouTube channel.


Pick your poison.
 

98 Blue

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Basic rule - rust never sleeps. If you don't get 100% it will just keep eating your car away. If you haven't done it before I wouldn't trust your repairs in structural areas. Are the rusted parts even available new? You'll need a way to keep the car from moving around while panels are removed. Bottom line have a professional make the repairs if you are unsure or ill equipped. You'll need to balance cost of repair vs car value. I will wager that you will find it cheaper in the long run to sell this one and buy another with no rust.
 

Tillerman77

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Basic rule - rust never sleeps. If you don't get 100% it will just keep eating your car away. If you haven't done it before I wouldn't trust your repairs in structural areas. Are the rusted parts even available new? You'll need a way to keep the car from moving around while panels are removed. Bottom line have a professional make the repairs if you are unsure or ill equipped. You'll need to balance cost of repair vs car value. I will wager that you will find it cheaper in the long run to sell this one and buy another with no rust.
Good advice, particularly the need to balance cost of repair vs value.
 

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