What: Modify the factory gauge to read over 10 psi
Cost: $0
Time: 20-30 min
The factory gauge needle has stops preventing it from sweeping further than the marking. removing this stop, adding an additional hash mark and calibration will allow the instrument to read the boost capabilities of a modded car.
Disclaimer: Just go buy a quality boost gauge, or at least the Hilton overlay. Unless your cheap, broke or your wife will be pissed that you spent cash on your ride (and a gauge won't make it go any faster either)
How:
1) Remove gauge cluster, remove cover. There are threads with this already. Laziness prevents me from adding a link at this time.
2) Obtain air source. hand pump, air tank & pressure gauge, whatever. I used a air tank pressurized to 10 psi and verified the pressure with several tire pressure gauges.
3) Make a note where 0 and 10 psi really are on the factory gauge. for me 0 was 2 psi actual, and 10 was 8 psi actual.
4) pull the needle off (finger nails work fine)
5) cut off the limiting post. I used a triangle file.
6) stick the needle back on and and try the position at 0 and 10 psi. adjust as necessary. I set mine so 10 psi actual was at the upper end of 10 on the gauge. Being that you can only calibrate it at one point, 0 psi will be where ever.
7) my car make 12 psi so I set the tank to 12 and added a hash mark where the needed landed. I cut a piece of black vinyl (from a Jegs sticker) the same size as the factory marks and stuck it on. (the lens cover covers the outer edge so spacing is not critical)
8) reassemble, install, have a beer.
Cost: $0
Time: 20-30 min
The factory gauge needle has stops preventing it from sweeping further than the marking. removing this stop, adding an additional hash mark and calibration will allow the instrument to read the boost capabilities of a modded car.
Disclaimer: Just go buy a quality boost gauge, or at least the Hilton overlay. Unless your cheap, broke or your wife will be pissed that you spent cash on your ride (and a gauge won't make it go any faster either)
How:
1) Remove gauge cluster, remove cover. There are threads with this already. Laziness prevents me from adding a link at this time.
2) Obtain air source. hand pump, air tank & pressure gauge, whatever. I used a air tank pressurized to 10 psi and verified the pressure with several tire pressure gauges.
3) Make a note where 0 and 10 psi really are on the factory gauge. for me 0 was 2 psi actual, and 10 was 8 psi actual.
4) pull the needle off (finger nails work fine)
5) cut off the limiting post. I used a triangle file.
6) stick the needle back on and and try the position at 0 and 10 psi. adjust as necessary. I set mine so 10 psi actual was at the upper end of 10 on the gauge. Being that you can only calibrate it at one point, 0 psi will be where ever.
7) my car make 12 psi so I set the tank to 12 and added a hash mark where the needed landed. I cut a piece of black vinyl (from a Jegs sticker) the same size as the factory marks and stuck it on. (the lens cover covers the outer edge so spacing is not critical)
8) reassemble, install, have a beer.
