Experience with minor built motors?

[dirtychamba]

I was debating of maybe semi building the bottom end of my 3.6 KB 11' shelby on corn.

current numbers are 800/700 but i have a rev limiter at 6400 and I feel like i'm using a neutered version of the blower.

I am not in the tax bracket class to go all out and get a fully built l&m engine so just planning on doing a "minor" built with just forged pistons, rods, tss billet oil pump gears, and the machine work. NO cams, just that.

What power level would I be restricted too with that build safely, and any recommendations on if I am missing anything that I would NEED ?

It is a street driven car, doesn't see too much track time, but about 3-4 race events a year and the typical highway pulls with friends.

 

[FORDMAN GT500]

Stop paying for Puffys Yacht with all that Ciroc you drink on instagram .LOl
Dont forget all ARP Hardware and a Cloyes Timing chain and gear set .You would be good for 1100-1200 hp i would think all day

 

[dirtychamba]

Stop paying for Puffys Yacht with all that Ciroc you drink on instagram .LOl
Dont forget all ARP Hardware and a Cloyes Timing chain and gear set .You would be good for 1100-1200 hp i would think all day

lmao wow -_-
yea thats on the list...
hmmm decisions

 

[FORDMAN GT500]

Lmao!

 

[Catmonkey]

If you're going to take advantage of higher revs with rods, you need cams. Pushing the stock cams above 6,500 rpm is just stressing the valve train. Lots of used 13/14 cams around and they use stock valves. I'd do that at a minimum.

 

[Joewee500]

I am getting a "minor built" motor as I write this. Rods, pistons, and new valves. I'm not doing cams either. I don't expect to rev over 6500. Motor was ruined so it will be built for strength rather than more power if that makes sense. I hope for 750whp-ish and for it to hold up. Results in a couple weeks.

 

[2010 Red&white]

If you have the motor apart & out of the car...do the cams. You need new springs and retainers if you want more than 6800 rpm more than once.
Don't forget to pin or double key the crank.....there is a bunch of info available on this forum.
Have fun and make a run at 1000.

 

[2010 Red&white]

If you have the motor apart & out of the car...do the cams. You need new springs and retainers if you want more than 6800 rpm more than once.
Don't forget to pin or double key the crank.....there is a bunch of info available on this forum.
Have fun and make a run at 1000.

 

[1320 Junkie]

I am getting a "minor built" motor as I write this. Rods, pistons, and new valves. I'm not doing cams either. I don't expect to rev over 6500. Motor was ruined so it will be built for strength rather than more power if that makes sense. I hope for 750whp-ish and for it to hold up. Results in a couple weeks.

Sal...Joe is getting his motor built by the same guy Don Wood ( R.A.D. auto machine )that built my beast's motor...at a minimum do GT cams while its open...you dont need to change springs and retainers.

 

[dirtychamba]

I have a set of 13 cams that will go in unless I find some good cheap used aftermarket cams or get a good deal on them new....
Am i loosing anything by not going all out with comp/jdm/l&m cams or should the 13 shelby cams be fine... and up to what power?