Experience with Kenne Bell Gimme 5 intake

[blowbye]

There have been times through the years were i have looked for your opinion or information that you posted that was really good stuff. Ive searched for hours only to find out you deleted it.... Thats why im a little edgy twards you

Sent from my LGLS775 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

 

[Bad Company]

Cant figure out how to edit on this app.

Im not trying to be a dick or instigate in anyway, just answer your question. You come off as pompous.
I watched you knock a guy down on his porting work saying that the rough oem shot peened cast surface would flow better then his smooth ported surface. You made it seem that the oem cast surface would outflow the smooth ported one... Due to the rough surface. Many disagreed with you, you deleted your posts... By deleting your opinions you make it seem to me that your word is law and anyone that says otherwise is not worthy of your opinion. This is a place for discussions. If you delete your opinions for whatever reason, no longer does a discussion does it make. Making this a place were no one want to come... Your attributing to the down fall of this forum ass well. Does your cnc porting theory hold water, yes. But if the cast surface flowed better then a smooth one, no one would of been porting before cnc's were available....

Sent from my LGLS775 using the svtperformance.com mobile app

I do my research and post what I've learned in from this. It also comes from years of experience applying what I've learned by modifying heavy duty diesel engines. The knowledge passes through and applies to any engine.

Now as far as why I deleted a lot of information in my posts that has nothing to do with what I posted or how the other member interpreted it. It actual happened because of the action of heavy handed moderating. If you don't believe me ask the moderators, because I had numerous PMs about it with one of them. The deletes were done in retaliation to this and it has taken me a while to be willing to post again in anything that is technical in nature. It had nothing to do with what I posted or the OP asking me questions afterwards. Hopefully speaking this truth won't get me banned, but it really wouldn't be a loss in my life either LOL

I find it funny that you think my posts have sufficient knowledge that you'd want to go back and read it, but want to berate me on this topic. Now I don't recall me stating that the cast surface would outflow the highly polished surface. Maybe I didn't clarify that. My posts on that subject where that the CNC machined surface would outflow the polished surface. My other thought and one I didn't want to go into great depth about in that thread was that to spend money to do a modification like this........the cost difference and time spent between polishing versus CNC porting wasn't worth the gain once you looked at the gains of the CNC work. But I didn't want to totally deflate the posters bubble writing that. If you're going to spend money..........do the research and spend it wisely. When you start buying high dollar parts.........do the research to determine what is the best part for the dollars you're spending for the biggest gain for your dollars. Otherwise you're wasting money.

Now you state that I knocked him down, unfortunately I was trying to be as diplomatic about it as I possibly could be, while trying to inform him why his modification wasn't worth the time and effort when compared to CNC porting work.

Yet you believe I was being pompous. If every time you posted anything technical and it turned into more than a discussion as this evidently did with you attacking me..........would you be defensive with every post you make? Would you have to sitdown and think of every past post and how someone as yourself could possibly call me out? After a while would you have a jaded outlook on every counter post against you?

You took my posts about the poster's port work as me being aggressive...........when in reality I was trying to be informative without telling him his money and time spent wasn't worth the gains he had versus the CNC work available today. Are polished ports better than the original finish? That really depends on the work done, but to do something without a bench to flow test you can actually hurt performance versus leaving it alone. 35 years ago anybody that was big into porting heads will tell you the same thing. If you don't believe me call Tom Slawko or Tony Bischoff and ask them if they felt that a port and polish job without bench testing was as good as the ones they did 35 years ago with a bench to prove the mods they did worked. You can actually hurt flow by porting and polishing over the stock casting without a flow bench to guide you on the way to do it. Heck pick up a 35 year old Hot Rod magazine on the subject.........they wrote numerous articles on this very subject trying to inform us, the uninformed how to not destroy a set of cylinder heads. This was my point........maybe I'm too old and remember these things and the research behind them compared to a lot of the younger guys that never read it in the first place.

In my work I've watched hundreds of guys spend thousands of dollars to modify heavy duty truck engine. What I've watched, is them throw money away that can and does feed their families. Because they spent that money unwisely for modifications that have zero effects on Hp or fuel mileage. It is a pet peeve of mine, because for the same money if they had done the research or talked to someone that has the knowledge and bought the correct modifications the first time, the wife at home would have more money to buy the baby a new pair of shoes or a better meal to eat. Yet hubby thinks he needs to play mechanic and waste money on mods with zero gains. So wasting money on poor mods in my eyes...... is a sore subject.

 

[kwarnerjr]

What do you guys think about the Steeda Big Bore intake? I have it on my car and have no complaints but I only chose it because I got a great deal on it from Steeda.
https://www.steeda.com/steeda-2013-2014-shelby-gt500-cold-air-intake-555-3173.html


Sent from my iPhone using svtperformance.com

 

[1 Alibi 2]

This is 140mm intake JDM sells with a stock air box I modified to allow it to pass through. I didn't like the aftermarket air boxes available, & wanted the intake shielded from the engine compartment. ( feeds a SCJ mono-blade )

Whats everyone's opinion of the SCJ intake and MAF setup that JDM sells? 140mm

.

 

[Poisonous West]

What do you guys think about the Steeda Big Bore intake? I have it on my car and have no complaints but I only chose it because I got a great deal on it from Steeda.

I believe I am the ONLY person who (1st) used the JLT 123mm intake, then (2nd) switch to the Steeda 130mm intake, and finally (3rd) design my own 136mm intake and installed on my own GT500.

· The Steeda 130mm intake is better than the JLT but STILL has ONE Major Area that needs to improve. It has a CNC machined “Velocity stack” to smooth and speed up the intake air.

· The Steeda air filter has a 6” (152.4mm) opening WITHOUT metal mesh. As I pointed out in the previous post, the metal mesh efficiency range from 0.21 to 0.24. One of the main function of the metal mesh is to straighten / smoothen (reduce turbulence) of the inlet air before reaching the MAF sensor for better signal. But the downside is reduced opening and slows down inlet air speed. The Steeda total opening area is π*r2 = π*(76.2mm)2 = 18241.5mm2. The JLT 123mm intake has 5” opening with metal mesh (assume the mesh efficiency is 0.21) the total opening area is π*r2 *0.79 = π*(63.5mm)2 *0.79 = 10007.5mm2. The reason JLT intake filter has the metal mesh is to straighten / smoothen (reduce turbulence) of the inlet air. But how come the Steeda filter do NOT have the metal mesh but still has no problem? The answer is the UNIQUE Steeda air filter design. For those (most) that do not know, the Steeda filter incorporates a cone INSIDE the filter to straighten / smoothen (reduce turbulence) of the inlet air. Steeda really know what they are doing but most people don’t understand. That’s why I said JLT do NOT know what they are doing. And when JLT copy they do NOT even know which one is a GOOD design.

 

[Robert M]

What I don't care about the gimme 5 is the lack of shielding to keep hot under hood air out of the intake.

I have a heat shield with my GIMME 5?

It blocks the radiator/fan heat wash air flow and the heat at the header/manifold while allowing free unrestricted flow around the air filter element itself............

Before

After (test fitting)

Nice shield wall to block hot radiator fan air flow.............

2007-2009 KB GIMME 5 heat shield...........

If you have a 2010-2013 the shield is different for contour around the ABS module and the 2013/14 I/C pump and hose assy......

I agree that the KB GIMME 5 is a Great looking CAI, and as long as the header/manifold heat is shielded along with the radiator fan heat wash and some heat from the drivers cyl. head while allowing for free flow around the air filter, I'm good with that.




R

 

[paluka21]

I have a heat shield with my GIMME 5?

It blocks the radiator/fan heat wash air flow and the heat at the header/manifold while allowing free unrestricted flow around the air filter element itself............

Before

After (test fitting)

Nice shield wall to block hot radiator fan air flow.............

2007-2009 KB GIMME 5 heat shield...........

If you have a 2010-2013 the shield is different for contour around the ABS module and the 2013/14 I/C pump and hose assy......

I agree that the KB GIMME 5 is a Great looking CAI, and as long as the header/manifold heat is shielded along with the radiator fan heat wash and some heat from the drivers cyl. head while allowing for free flow around the air filter, I'm good with that.




R

It is a great looking intake for sure. How does the heat shield seal to the hood to prevent hot air from entering the filter? Also how is the filter constructed inside? It was mentioned that it uses a velocity stack style design.
From some of the other folks who have posted it seems the velocity stack style filter is the way to go.

 

[Robert M]

It is a great looking intake for sure. How does the heat shield seal to the hood to prevent hot air from entering the filter? Also how is the filter constructed inside? It was mentioned that it uses a velocity stack style design.
From some of the other folks who have posted it seems the velocity stack style filter is the way to go.

I will have to check the KB filter this evening.

As for sealing to the hood, unless a CAI hood is installed to get fresh air from outside the engine compartment, there is no CAI, right?

I have looked at the different fresh air hoods (SAI Super Snake, TruFiber, etc.) and none of them look standard in the front corner where the air filter intake is, so which hood is the seal made to fit to?


R

 

[Catmonkey]

Robert, that's more than I've seen any any photos before now, so I stand corrected. Not sure how effective it is but better than nothing for sure.

It was mentioned that it uses a velocity stack style design.

From some of the other folks who have posted it seems the velocity stack style filter is the way to go.

What others are mentioning isn't really a velocity stack filter design, they're talking about the bell mouth at the opening of the MAF. This shot of a PMAS MAF shows that rolled taper at the entrance of the MAF to smooth airflow. Yes, it is a benefit. FRPP's maf and Whipple's MAF all employ this feature. Of course, so does PMAS.

I believe JLT uses a taper but it's part of the filter design and not the tube.

 

[Robert M]

It is a great looking intake for sure. How does the heat shield seal to the hood to prevent hot air from entering the filter? Also how is the filter constructed inside? It was mentioned that it uses a velocity stack style design.
From some of the other folks who have posted it seems the velocity stack style filter is the way to go.

Nope, no cone, just an oval cone shaped filter that appears to have quite a bit of filter area/surface and it has KENNE BELL on the front. I would guess that if a person felt the need for a cone type filter, it would attach easily to the KB GIMME 5 tube?

R

 

[Robert M]

Robert, that's more than I've seen any any photos before now, so I stand corrected. Not sure how effective it is but better than nothing for sure.



What others are mentioning isn't really a velocity stack filter design, they're talking about the bell mouth at the opening of the MAF. This shot of a PMAS MAF shows that rolled taper at the entrance of the MAF to smooth airflow. Yes, it is a benefit. FRPP's maf and Whipple's MAF all employ this feature. Of course, so does PMAS.

I believe JLT uses a taper but it's part of the filter design and not the tube.

^^^^I am not familiar with that piece at all. So can that piece be added/incorperated into any tube that it properly fits or is it brand specific?

As for the heat shield, most of the time there is air flow through this area, and form fitting a shield around everything (for the most part) in that area and shielding heat from the hotter engine parts should work good, but there is no better air source than to get feed air from outside the engine compartment.



R

 

[Sonic 03 Cobra]

It is a great looking intake for sure. How does the heat shield seal to the hood to prevent hot air from entering the filter? Also how is the filter constructed inside? It was mentioned that it uses a velocity stack style design.
From some of the other folks who have posted it seems the velocity stack style filter is the way to go.

Here is the 10-14 version. The construction seems to be the same as the JLT and Airaid filters with no internal structure. What you see on the outside is what you get on the inside.