Exhaust Actuators

johnny2_3

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What are people doing to avoid overheating/cooking the exhaust actuators? I have less than 1000 miles on the car and have already had 1 fail.
 

Zemedici

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Haven't heard of that happening.....but get some heat resistant wrap. Hold up lemme find the link
 

johnny2_3

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It looks like it is melting the pivot region, based on images I can find online and its inability to rotate even by hand/force.
 

Tob

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What are people doing to avoid overheating/cooking the exhaust actuators? I have less than 1000 miles on the car and have already had 1 fail.

So you had one actuator fail. Who determined that the failure was due to "overheating/cooking the exhaust actuators?"

It looks like it is melting the pivot region, based on images I can find online and its inability to rotate even by hand/force.

At first it sounds as if you saw the failed actuator from your car but then it sounds as if you are talking about images you saw online. Regarding rotation, without power it won't want to turn.

GM has had issues with the design and manufacturer they went with on certain vehicles. Ford uses Kuster and they have had pretty good luck with them to date.

z0219171603_HDR.jpg



I have yet to see a single GT350 Kuster actuator fail in the "pivot region" due to melting. If you can point to anything that has been documented I'd love to see it. Kuster uses a spring on the GT350 units and the body is well insulated via the cradle.

z0219171610_HDR.jpg


z0219171604b_HDR.jpg
 

johnny2_3

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That is correct I haven't pulled mine yet. I did a quick Google search on the code and came across some gt350 posts showing a TSB and historically (other brands) these have been plaged by heat issues. Which led to my assumption. Based on the lack of pivoting, unless the unit is non-back driveable, it should move albiet with some resistance. Hoping it was just a bad actuator and the replacement will solve it. But I like having a contingency plan in place in the event the historic data was correct.
 

Tob

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These actuators are rather robust. Of importance is to make sure that the spring seats in both receiver grooves at the valve. When you lower the actuator into place you can see one side of the spring will seat but the other has to be maneuvered into position. Many overlook this, cinch them down without verifying engagement, and wonder why they get a code.
 

johnny2_3

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I just did it myself. I don't trust the local SVT dealers and my normal dealer won't touch the car as they don't have any SVT cert. techs.
 

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