Engine stalls when hot, won't start until cold.

[da2k17]

It's been a while since I've been active here, my cobra has been sitting for a while too, and that's probably why I'm having issues.

Anyway.... the car has been pretty stagnant for the last 4-5 years. At the beginning of summer I began to get it ready to be used again.

It ran like shit. Changed the fuel, fuel filter and plugs and it ran better. Then it overheated. I changed the thermostat and coolant and it ran better again.

It would run until it got fully heated up and it would start breaking up and shut down. It threw the same codes as listed below. Did some research and determined the crank shaft position sensor could be bad. Removed it and found it had a crack in it, put a new one in and boom, it ran perfect.

I started using the car here and there until I noticed the radiator leaking (probably what caused it to over heat the first time). Replaced that about 2 months ago and haven't really used the car since. I took it out yesterday, got gas and drove for about an hour and half cruising some country roads. I got about a minute out from my home and it starts breaking up again and it just shuts down. Tried starting and it would fire up then shut off after a few seconds. Towed it home and put it in the garage.

I have four codes:
P0193 Fuel rail pressure sensor circuit high

P1233 is defined as Fuel Pump Driver Module Disabled Or Off Line.

P00234 engine over boost condition

P0320 ignition /distributor speed input circuit

I'm not an expert in tuning, but i'm not sure why I have codes for FRPS and FPDM. I have a return system and those sensors shouldn't be doing anything with the tune.

The over boost thing.... yea... i have no idea. I'm not even sure how the PCM is monitoring that. My boost/vac lines aren't hooked to any vehicle sensors, never have been.

P0320 says its most likely a bad crank shaft position sensor again.

Does anyone have any idea why I would keep having issues with the crank sensor ? I figured the first one was from overheating and breaking but this one would have maybe 30 miles and an hour and half run time on it.

And yes, I reloaded my tune the first time it acted up and also again yesterday. It didn't change anything.

Sorry for the long read.

 

[SecondhandSnake]

I can't help too much, but I'll throw some ideas out there.

For the fuel system, you're running a true return system with no ECU control? Can you verify pressure is steady?

With the overboost code, it's getting that reading through the TBAP sensor. Are you getting on it or in boost when it happens? Might be worth looking at that sensor. You could try unplugging it, but keep in mind it will probably go to some sort of safe mode when it doesn't have MAP/IAT2.

The only thing you could do with the crank sensor if it's new is remove it, inspect it and the tone wheel, and then test the wiring to the ECU.

 

[hotcobra03]

Po234 leads to testing icp

Po320 asked if a radio has been added and maybe antennas added before going to crank position sensor testing

But also has intermittent listed as to do a wiggle test while monitoring pids

 

[da2k17]

Found a short in the wiring. looks like it bumped against the belt. Spliced in a new section and replaced the sensor, fired right up and ran good.

Hopefully that's the only issue....