Engine dies, code 1233

[rattle_snake]

Year later I get code 0193 again... Aghhhh

I had bought a OEM sensor from Ford, original lasted 17 years, and new only 1 year?

Cleared code and didn't set on drive cycle. Can't trust the car. Guess I buy a spare and carry tools.

 

[Roush6018]

you never fixed the issue in the first place, you just replaced a part you thought was at fault, the FRPS. There was a member trying to explain how to find the problem, then you find the problem and repair it for good. Putting the FPDM in the freezer was pretty funny to me, at least you were being honest. As a mechanic i have done some funny diagnostic stuff trying to find squeaks and rattles for customers driving around with my co-workers in the trunk was fun.

i sometimes wonder how my 20 year old terminator cobra is still running too.

also electrical issues are very common to change when temp is hot or cold. however when it is fixed the car should act normal in hot weather or even when it snows down in the desert.

i knew reading the thread the FRPS sensor was not going to fix your problem for ever, it simply senses the condition the car is suffering from (erratic fuel pressure) . The Good news i have for you is when you find that fault and repair it correctly, you can do burnouts and donuts again (day and night) without the worry your cobra will stall out!!!!!!!!! (but still keep a AAA membership for 'mergencys)

 

[hunglikeatunacan]

Keep us posted @rattle_snake you'll get this!

im having the same issue with mine replaced both fpdm rail pressure sensor , iac , tps, after 15 to 30 min mechanical fuel guage starts to go up and down to 60psi then pegs at 100psi floods engine shuts down is what i was thinking but mine melts the fuse i tried running 2 fuse 3 relay 1 relay to power up 2 relay for each fpdm and let a 10 guage power wire feed the fpdm. 4 guage to the trunk from battery to the fuse block from fuse block 60amp fuse to each 10 guage wire with 40 amp inline fuse going to each relay then to each fpdm.then 10 guage to each pump running 2 gt pumps . im also running 16lb pulley on the eaton stage 7 port and polish . when fuel presure shots up it will go down only if ur wot. as soon as you let off the gas pedal then fuel pressure shoots 0vet 100psi . it will shut down only when you blow or melt the fuse it will run till fuse goes. im still having the issue and about to fix it with a gas can and a match

 

[Roush6018]

i would recommend OP and the new member try to replace their CCRM and report back. remove the right front fender liner, disconnect the wiring connector and remove the module. find the part number on your (bad) module and try to find a similar one (known good working part) on ebay, replace the CCRM and report back. They are easy to replace and could be causing the issues you are having.

 

[hunglikeatunacan]

so i removed the ccrm from my 2004 gt and still same issue i replaced tps again installed at .96,.97,.98,.99,1.0,1.2v just to see what happens after 20 to 30 min same thing also ran 2 seperate relay to eliminate the power to eliminate the ccrm fuel pump relay and ran 2 seperate 10g power wire from battery to relay with 30amp fuse also try with 40 amp fuse same thing. when it idle u can feel a missfire and fuel guage starts to go up to 60psi bumps a few times going to 80psi drops bavck to 60psi then pegs at 100psi a few seconds after blows or melts the fuse powering up fpcm and u can see the relay wire housing starting to deform/melt from getting so hot. tryed the factory and dorman fpcm still the same frps ben replaced 3 times also with known good one from the 04 gt

 

[hunglikeatunacan]

also thank for helping with this issue and what determines fuel pressure of how much to supply when your at idle of on the throttle i have a mechanical boost guage and vac and boost is normal when this is all happening 21 psi at idle also when it starts to go up to or over 100psi if i give it full throttle it drops it back to 60 psi but as soon as you let off it goes right back up 100 or over. if you turn off the vehicle and restart samething but with a scantool if you rteset the memory for fuel, idle . also only way you can clear any of the check engine codes. it will set a code for fpdm circuit high or module disconected when fuel pump fuse blows i have gotten rich conditions if fuse dont blow sometimes. if you reset the memory. and restart it it will drop back to 40psi at idle and able to drive again but it may only last about 5 to 10min this time for it to peg the fuel pressure again, so definetly issue whit the car running longer period as when car is cold start it can last up to 3o to 40 min before starts to happen

 

[Roush6018]

this is good results. the ECM is controlling the fuel pressure. it sees the fuel rail pressure sensor and it adjusts the voltage to the fuel pumps using the fuel pump relay and fuel pump driver module.

i am going to hope the actual wiring is in good shape and not broken. i would recommend you replace the fuel pumps as a set and then recheck for the problem.

if you replace both pumps and same problem happens. you need to verify the FRPS sensor has power and gound at the connector. verify the sensor is giving off a output voltage. then verify the signal wire is good from the FRPS to the ECU connector. then verify the ecu is recieving the FRPS signal voltage. verify the ECU has good power and ground.

if all the above wires have checked out as Good. i recommend getting the ECU rebuilt/repaired at G7 Computers in new york, very quick turn around not waiting forever. if there is a problem with the actual wires then you need to fix the wires and recheck for the problem.

 

[rattle_snake]

you never fixed the issue in the first place, you just replaced a part you thought was at fault, the FRPS. There was a member trying to explain how to find the problem, then you find the problem and repair it for good. Putting the FPDM in the freezer was pretty funny to me, at least you were being honest. As a mechanic i have done some funny diagnostic stuff trying to find squeaks and rattles for customers driving around with my co-workers in the trunk was fun.

i sometimes wonder how my 20 year old terminator cobra is still running too.

also electrical issues are very common to change when temp is hot or cold. however when it is fixed the car should act normal in hot weather or even when it snows down in the desert.

i knew reading the thread the FRPS sensor was not going to fix your problem for ever, it simply senses the condition the car is suffering from (erratic fuel pressure) . The Good news i have for you is when you find that fault and repair it correctly, you can do burnouts and donuts again (day and night) without the worry your cobra will stall out!!!!!!!!! (but still keep a AAA membership for 'mergencys)

Go back and read post #18, synchronous voltage and pressure measurement failure. Seems you don't understand what your talking about....

Well, no problems since last post.

 

[rattle_snake]

i would recommend OP and the new member try to replace their CCRM and report back. remove the right front fender liner, disconnect the wiring connector and remove the module. find the part number on your (bad) module and try to find a similar one (known good working part) on ebay, replace the CCRM and report back. They are easy to replace and could be causing the issues you are having.

Why? I verified power at FPDM thur BAP. replacing CCRM at that point makes no sense. blindly throwing parts at it.