Engine cranks but won't start.

[Garlin]

Went out for a short ride in the cobra r. Stopped at a red light. Light turns green started to take off and the engine started to sputter. Made it about 100 ft and engine stalled. Now it cranks but won't start. Was running fine while I was driving and while stopped at the red light. Problem started when I started to accelerate. Any suggestions. I noticed when I turn the key on I don't hear the fuel pump energize. Can someone tell me where the fuel pump on the cobra r is located. First problem I've had with this car and I've had it for 15 years. Any other suggestions of what might be the problem would be a big help.

 

[JoeAsheville]

When I've had symptoms like that in the past, it's usually been the ignition control module. In this case, I'd suspect the crank angle sensor, perhaps a cam position sensor.

If the 00Rs have a returnless fuel system, it stands to reason that the fuel pump would stop once the system is up to pressure. I believe my 03 Cobra does that. I wouldn't drop the tank just yet.

Has any work been done to the car recently?

 

[97snakebite]

check to see if you have pressure at the rails. that will tell u if its the pump

 

[Garlin]

No work has been done on it. Just out for the first time this season. Washed it, took it around the block. Then decided to go for a short ride. Car was running fine. Stopped at a red light car was running fine until I started to take off. that's when the trouble started. Haven't had a chance to start checking things out. Thought I would check here first to get on the right track. Have had the car for 15 years and have never had a problem. That's why I'm not to familiar with it's components. It's always started and run great. It acted like it was running out of gas.

 

[Garlin]

Is there a place on the fuel rails to check for fuel?

 

[tomshep]

There is a shrader valve you can check pressure at. I believe it will be towards the front of the passenger fuel rail. Fuel, air, spark--it takes all 3.

Tom

 

[Garlin]

Checked the shrader valve no fuel there. Disconnected air intake at trottlebody and gave it a shot of starting fluid and it fired up then quit. So it is probably a fuel problem. Fuel pump still no energizing sound when key is turned on. Have to check fuel relay and fuel pump. I assume fuel pump is in the fuel cell. Anything else you can think of checking. Would an OBD II tester locate the problem or give me codes to possible problem?

 

[NastyNate420]

PATS possibly

 

[JoeAsheville]

OBD may have a pending code, if the SES is not lit...

 

[Garlin]

Check second key. Still no start. Theft light goes out when cranking. Has to be fuel because it starts when I give it a shot of starting fluid but then stalls.

 

[Garlin]

Is there an access to the fuel pump or does the tank have to be dropped?

 

[JoeAsheville]

I have seen on some cars (not ours) where people cut access holes to get to the pump without dropping the tank. I believe dropping the tank is the best option...unless:

-check the fp fuse first, if equipped
-check that the inertia switch has not tripped next
-check the fp relay next, if equipped

 

[JoeAsheville]

I would check that inertia switch real quick, actually...that might be the culprit. It will cut all power to the fp in the event of a hard hit. As stiffly sprung as these cars are, and as old as the components are getting...those switches may be getting flaky.

If the switch is ok and not popped, we might have to engage in some pinpoint tests prior to dropping the cell.

 

[Garlin]

I did check the inertia switch. The button is in. Unless the switch itself is bad. Check FP fuse. Not burned. Checked PCM fuse it seems good. Definitely fuel though. I can give it a shot thru the throttle body and it fires up. There was some talk about the crank sensor don't know if that would cause this problem. Will keep checking. Thanks for the help.

 

[JoeAsheville]

If no fuel, then I wouldn't suspect the crank angle sensor anymore. I would direct my attention to solving the fuel system problem.

Ok, pinpoint tests...what I personally would do next is find the splice (connector) for the fuel pump, disconnect that, and check for voltage. You'll need a multimeter for that, some people might suggest a noid light but that's much too simple.

Do you have access to a VOM, or could borrow one?

 

[NastyNate420]

not sure about your fuel set up but on the the mach you can jump the harness to the fuel pump and apply 12vdc directly to see if you get fuel pressure. that way you can avoid dropping the tank and rule out FPDM

 

[JoeAsheville]

This may be a little easier to check...but still requires a VOM: pull the trunk carpet enough to expose the inertia switch. Test there for voltage on KOEO. If you have 12v, the issue is downstream, i.e. either the FPDM or the pump itself. If no voltage on KOEO, then the issue potentially lies with the CCRM or the fuel pump fuse. I know that the fuse looked OK, but I would run a continuity test on that fuse to be sure.

If you get 12v at the switch, I would then ohm out the pump. A bad pump will show "OL", "OOR", or infinity on the meter (dead short) usually.

Briefly...If you have 12v at the inertia switch, and the pump shows out of range on a resistance test...plan on dropping the tank as the pump is tango uniform.

 

[93SVTCobra]

when is the last time you replaced the fuel filter? It's possible you got some water in your tank over winter and it's accumulated in your filter.

 

[ac427cobra]

First thing I would replace is the fuel rail pressure sensor/regulator. I carry not one, but two spares in my hauler.

Second item to check after that would be the crankshaft position sensor.

FWIW

 

[tomshep]

These cells have a shelf life. Do you know the age of the cell and more importantly the foam inside? If it is older my money is on the pump is dead or the sock is fully of cell foam and it killed the pump.

Tom