Home
What's new
Latest activity
Authors
Store
Latest reviews
Search products
Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New listings
New products
New profile posts
Latest activity
Members
Current visitors
New profile posts
Search profile posts
Log in
Register
Cart
Cart
Loading…
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Search titles only
By:
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More options
Change style
Contact us
Close Menu
Forums
Mustang Forums
2015+ S550 Mustangs
2.3L EcoBoost I-4 Engine Modification/Discussion
*** Ecoboost Mustang Project Forced4! ***
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Message
<blockquote data-quote="tt335ci03cobra" data-source="post: 14650702" data-attributes="member: 68944"><p>Very cool build!</p><p></p><p>Don't run drag radials on a factory comfort/cushy oriented irs to alleviate wheel hop. If you have wheel hop, this will lead to an axle failure very quickly. Drag radials will seem phenomenal but are best to be thought of as a a band aid for an inflammation, and the real infection beneath the skin will kill the patient very quickly as it still exists. </p><p></p><p>A slick has a wrinkle sidewall which absorbs the torque much better.</p><p></p><p>A drag radial will actually lead to sheared axles and broken hubs much faster than stock tires. </p><p></p><p>I've put 920wtq through my built irs on drag radials. I blew up a stock t56 at those power levels, and rebuilt it. The irs however is still going very strong. </p><p></p><p>Years back, when the car was a bolt on car making 450wtq, the irs had one axle failure and a hub failure before I built it, no issues sense. </p><p></p><p>The key is to build the subframe. Completely stiffen the subframes rigidity and bolster it's ability to handle/eliminate torque deflection to the tertiary components. If you stiffen the bushings, get a proper differential brace, and fundamentally strengthen the actual irs subframe, a much more manageable amount of torque will be mitigated to the axle teeth, hubs and other tertiary components. </p><p></p><p>At that point, you can run drag radials, hard street tires, etc much easier if you don't hoon it very very hard. I run nt05r's and toyo tq's, haven't had a failure yet but I'm also not super aggressive street launches because no matter what, an axle is prey to torque if the tires sidewall cannot wrinkle like a slick does. Drag radials are rigid wall, slicks wrinkle very nicely and absorb torque. </p><p></p><p>You're goal is to make the subframe and then tire sidewall absorb the torque. If it cannot do so, it will translate it to the hubs and axle teeth, differential case etc.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="tt335ci03cobra, post: 14650702, member: 68944"] Very cool build! Don't run drag radials on a factory comfort/cushy oriented irs to alleviate wheel hop. If you have wheel hop, this will lead to an axle failure very quickly. Drag radials will seem phenomenal but are best to be thought of as a a band aid for an inflammation, and the real infection beneath the skin will kill the patient very quickly as it still exists. A slick has a wrinkle sidewall which absorbs the torque much better. A drag radial will actually lead to sheared axles and broken hubs much faster than stock tires. I've put 920wtq through my built irs on drag radials. I blew up a stock t56 at those power levels, and rebuilt it. The irs however is still going very strong. Years back, when the car was a bolt on car making 450wtq, the irs had one axle failure and a hub failure before I built it, no issues sense. The key is to build the subframe. Completely stiffen the subframes rigidity and bolster it's ability to handle/eliminate torque deflection to the tertiary components. If you stiffen the bushings, get a proper differential brace, and fundamentally strengthen the actual irs subframe, a much more manageable amount of torque will be mitigated to the axle teeth, hubs and other tertiary components. At that point, you can run drag radials, hard street tires, etc much easier if you don't hoon it very very hard. I run nt05r's and toyo tq's, haven't had a failure yet but I'm also not super aggressive street launches because no matter what, an axle is prey to torque if the tires sidewall cannot wrinkle like a slick does. Drag radials are rigid wall, slicks wrinkle very nicely and absorb torque. You're goal is to make the subframe and then tire sidewall absorb the torque. If it cannot do so, it will translate it to the hubs and axle teeth, differential case etc. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forums
Mustang Forums
2015+ S550 Mustangs
2.3L EcoBoost I-4 Engine Modification/Discussion
*** Ecoboost Mustang Project Forced4! ***
Top