*** Ecoboost Mustang Project Forced4! ***

JustSpeed7

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I would like to introduce everybody to my Ecoboost Mustang Project I named Forced4. Its a manual 100A base car with only options being Recaro seats, performance package and enhanced security package which I ordered myself as I am a salesman at Mullinax Ford in Apopka,FL. My goal is to make a badass Ecoboost Mustang that will show people that these cars definitely have potential and will be working with CFM Performance to help get some more parts out for us Ecoboost owners. I want to start off with the basic bolt ons and go from there and see what happens would love to get the car into the low 11's and maybe way later down the road with a bigger turbo high 10's. I will also try to attend a couple local road course events as well so there will be some suspension mods later on. Right now the car is stock except for a 93 Octane Tune from Torrie as some of you might have already seen the car made an impressive 292rwhp and 417rwtq. Car is a blast to drive and absolutely love it so far! Cant wait to really get this thing moving and getting some feedback from everyone! Enough talking here's what everybody cares about the pictures haha!



Here is some pictures of when I picked the car up from the ramp.

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The day after I tinted it went with 5% all around.

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Also had the roof wrapped in a gloss black 3M vinyl two days after and this is how the car currently sits.

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And last but not least pictures of it on the dyno along with a picture of the pull.

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Let me know what you guys think! Will keep updating it as I go, if you have instagram follow me @justspeed7 or follow the build @cfmperf!
 

JustSpeed7

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Quick update I forgot to post went to the track for the stangs first outing ran a best of a 13.5 at 104.8 with a 2.0 60ft long story short I need tires bad. Its not like the automatics that can just mash the gas and go its really hard to launch the car at a decent RPM with the stock street tires I have to baby it out the hole even the shift to second it will spin and then I will get wheel hop unless I granny shift it. So first up is going to be a set of 295/45/17 Mickey Thompson ET Streets along with a set of 17x10 Weld RTS wheels which I will be ordering hopefully tomorrow.

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MikeLTDLX

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Quick update I forgot to post went to the track for the stangs first outing ran a best of a 13.5 at 104.8 with a 2.0 60ft long story short I need tires bad. Its not like the automatics that can just mash the gas and go its really hard to launch the car at a decent RPM with the stock street tires I have to baby it out the hole even the shift to second it will spin and then I will get wheel hop unless I granny shift it. So first up is going to be a set of 295/45/17 Mickey Thompson ET Streets along with a set of 17x10 Weld RTS wheels which I will be ordering hopefully tomorrow.

IMG_6472_zps33e2111d.jpg

This is why I bought an auto, and why I am cutting 1.70 60 foots. I am also tuned by Torrie. I learned my lesson with my 2012 GT. I will be interested in following your progress as I have been working very closely with Torrie on my car.

Mike
 

JustSpeed7

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This is why I bought an auto, and why I am cutting 1.70 60 foots. I am also tuned by Torrie. I learned my lesson with my 2012 GT. I will be interested in following your progress as I have been working very closely with Torrie on my car.

Mike

I hear you but this is my daily and love driving a manual to me an auto is boring and won't be only using it for the drag strip like mentioned earlier will be using it for road course stuff to hopefully but for sure can't wait to see your progres as well you'll be like my auto brother haha!
 

JustSpeed7

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Just another small update I will be testing a JLT intake here shortly waiting for it to arrive and just placed an order for a rear set of 17x10 Weld RT-S that will take 3-4 weeks to come in that along with a set of MT ET Streets should get me hopefully to break into the 12s.
 

TurboBird

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Nice! in for updates, i haven't found threads with more than basic bolt ons. Wanting to see what happens when someone dumps some serious money in them
 

MikeLTDLX

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Put slicks on it as it is a manual car. They will be much more forgiving to your driveline...especially the axles. Drag radials are for automatic cars. I would recommend a 28 inch stiff sidewall slick.

I spoke to Jay yesterday (from JLT), and he is going to send me an intake so I can do a track comparison between the JLT and the Airaid.

Mike
 

SID297

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This is why I bought an auto, and why I am cutting 1.70 60 foots. I am also tuned by Torrie. I learned my lesson with my 2012 GT. I will be interested in following your progress as I have been working very closely with Torrie on my car.

Mike

The 6R80 definitely changed the Mustang world.

Put slicks on it as it is a manual car. They will be much more forgiving to your driveline...especially the axles. Drag radials are for automatic cars. I would recommend a 28 inch stiff sidewall slick.

I spoke to Jay yesterday (from JLT), and he is going to send me an intake so I can do a track comparison between the JLT and the Airaid.

Mike

That will be really interesting. I look forward to seeing it.
 

JustSpeed7

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Thanks guys! Yeah I can't wait to get the intake in its a super nice piece they did there homework on it for sure. I'm going to put DRs for now then later on with upgraded half shafts I will prob try a set of slicks. Will be cool to see what your able to run as well compared to the airraid. I agree the 6R80 is a badass transmission but just not for me I love driving a manual especially in a Mustang.
 

JustSpeed7

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Little teaser picked up a set of wheels can't wait to put them on next week there nothing fancy but they will hold me over for now ; )

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tt335ci03cobra

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Very cool build!

Don't run drag radials on a factory comfort/cushy oriented irs to alleviate wheel hop. If you have wheel hop, this will lead to an axle failure very quickly. Drag radials will seem phenomenal but are best to be thought of as a a band aid for an inflammation, and the real infection beneath the skin will kill the patient very quickly as it still exists.

A slick has a wrinkle sidewall which absorbs the torque much better.

A drag radial will actually lead to sheared axles and broken hubs much faster than stock tires.

I've put 920wtq through my built irs on drag radials. I blew up a stock t56 at those power levels, and rebuilt it. The irs however is still going very strong.

Years back, when the car was a bolt on car making 450wtq, the irs had one axle failure and a hub failure before I built it, no issues sense.

The key is to build the subframe. Completely stiffen the subframes rigidity and bolster it's ability to handle/eliminate torque deflection to the tertiary components. If you stiffen the bushings, get a proper differential brace, and fundamentally strengthen the actual irs subframe, a much more manageable amount of torque will be mitigated to the axle teeth, hubs and other tertiary components.

At that point, you can run drag radials, hard street tires, etc much easier if you don't hoon it very very hard. I run nt05r's and toyo tq's, haven't had a failure yet but I'm also not super aggressive street launches because no matter what, an axle is prey to torque if the tires sidewall cannot wrinkle like a slick does. Drag radials are rigid wall, slicks wrinkle very nicely and absorb torque.

You're goal is to make the subframe and then tire sidewall absorb the torque. If it cannot do so, it will translate it to the hubs and axle teeth, differential case etc.
 
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JustSpeed7

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Thanks! And you make a valid point something I will have to consider for sure I planned on running slicks later when I got more serious with the power mods but we shall see.

Very cool build!

Don't run drag radials on a factory comfort/cushy oriented irs to alleviate wheel hop. If you have wheel hop, this will lead to an axle failure very quickly. Drag radials will seem phenomenal but are best to be thought of as a a band aid for an inflammation, and the real infection beneath the skin will kill the patient very quickly as it still exists.

A slick has a wrinkle sidewall which absorbs the torque much better.

A drag radial will actually lead to sheared axles and broken hubs much faster than stock tires.

I've put 920wtq through my built irs on drag radials. I blew up a stock t56 at those power levels, and rebuilt it. The irs however is still going very strong.

Years back, when the car was a bolt on car making 450wtq, the irs had one axle failure and a hub failure before I built it, no issues sense.

The key is to build the subframe. Completely stiffen the subframes rigidity and bolster it's ability to handle/eliminate torque deflection to the tertiary components. If you stiffen the bushings, get a proper differential brace, and fundamentally strengthen the actual irs subframe, a much more manageable amount of torque will be mitigated to the axle teeth, hubs and other tertiary components.

At that point, you can run drag radials, hard street tires, etc much easier if you don't hoon it very very hard. I run nt05r's and toyo tq's, haven't had a failure yet but I'm also not super aggressive street launches because no matter what, an axle is prey to torque if the tires sidewall cannot wrinkle like a slick does. Drag radials are rigid wall, slicks wrinkle very nicely and absorb torque.

You're goal is to make the subframe and then tire sidewall absorb the torque. If it cannot do so, it will translate it to the hubs and axle teeth, differential case etc.
 

JustSpeed7

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Finally I've had some time I was able to get the new wheels mounted yesterday mind you the car is dirty here is a before and after picture of the wheel swap let me know what you think? I love the multi-spoke look and I now have wider 275's out back these wheels will hold me over until later down the road when I get an aftermarket set of wheels that I really like.

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mustangmanjeff

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wow that torque is impressive not even 300rwhp 290rwhp and has over 400rwtq? dam thats more then a stock 5.0 for torque at the wheels. I understand its turbo but that seems isane for a little 4 cylinder motor, and them times deff are impressive sad for us older 5.0 v8 owners previous to the 2003 cobra. those times are same if not better then any other year gt or 4.6 cobra n/a :( lol not a fan of the sound of the 4 cylinder v6 cars thats for sure , but cant knock how they perform and look, the new cars are impressive, just a little to heavy .
 

JustSpeed7

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wow that torque is impressive not even 300rwhp 290rwhp and has over 400rwtq? dam thats more then a stock 5.0 for torque at the wheels. I understand its turbo but that seems isane for a little 4 cylinder motor, and them times deff are impressive sad for us older 5.0 v8 owners previous to the 2003 cobra. those times are same if not better then any other year gt or 4.6 cobra n/a :( lol not a fan of the sound of the 4 cylinder v6 cars thats for sure , but cant knock how they perform and look, the new cars are impressive, just a little to heavy .

Thanks! Yeah I agree it is a little to heavy but It also helps with the handling and overall ride quality, it a lot smoother and quieter than prior body styles really feels planted as well, love the IRS just want to get it track ready.
 

04svtsnke

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wow that torque is impressive not even 300rwhp 290rwhp and has over 400rwtq? dam thats more then a stock 5.0 for torque at the wheels. I understand its turbo but that seems isane for a little 4 cylinder motor, and them times deff are impressive sad for us older 5.0 v8 owners previous to the 2003 cobra. those times are same if not better then any other year gt or 4.6 cobra n/a :( lol not a fan of the sound of the 4 cylinder v6 cars thats for sure , but cant knock how they perform and look, the new cars are impressive, just a little to heavy .

This normally happens when the turbo is maxed out. The srt4's do the same thing. Put a more efficient turbo on there and watch the hp catch up with the tq. These motors intrigue me. I'm hoping a fbo+meth car can put out 350/430 to the tires before maxing out on the stock turbo. Either way you still have to find a way around the fuel problem.
 

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