Recently I wired up my car to be able to use Boost by Gear with the eboost2 using Switch Logic setting SSB. It was so easy, I thought I would share how I did it. I know many run this boost controller and you may not know how easy this is to set up. I have read others using micro-switches, and this was WAY easier. All you have to do is hook up two different wires and ground two other wires, configure the eboost and that's it. Hopefully this is helpful to someone.
DISCLAIMER: I have no idea how to duplicate this with other boost controllers.
WHY BOOST BY GEAR?
Why would you want to run boost by gear? Simple answer! It allows you to ramp boost in based on what gear you are in. If you have trouble running 20lbs in first gear and getting traction, now you can run less in 1st, a little more in 2nd, and hopefully all the boost in high gear.
THE RUNDOWN:
I run a th400 using a B&M Pro Ratchet shifter. I do not use a transbrake. Why does that matter? Because I bought the shift ball with a push-button switch in it that many use to activate a transbrake. If you were using this button to activate a transbrake, you would have to fashion up some other button that you can depress during gear shifts or use for the brake. If you have a manual trans, this same process would work just as well. You could buy a shiftball with a button and do the exact same thing.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
On the eboost2 wiring harness that is probably tucked under your carpet or dash, there are some wires that are not connected to anything. Specifically you are looking for the green wire and the orange wire. Hooking the green wire up to the shift knob switch allows you to move up set points with each press of this button. Each set point will need to be configured to have a different (higher) duty cycle and gate pressure. Prior to this, you will have to go into the nSP menu and configure the number of set points. Since I have 3 gears, I will have 3 different set points. Hooking the orange wire to another switch allows you to move down set points with each press of the button. All you are doing when pressing either button is grounding the wire. See diagram below.
WHAT TO DO
I ordered the B&M button shift ball from Summit and just ordered a standard 'normally open' push button switch from an online vendor for a couple bucks. I then stopped by home depot for a little roll of 16ga wire and some crimp connectors. First things first, I removed my center console as I had to drill a hole for the little switch on my shifter plate. I then measured how long of wire I would need from this switch to reach the orange wire and made it extra long. I stripped the wire on both ends and proceeded to solder a wire directly to both of the posts on the switch. Once completed with that, I finished installing the switch in the center console and then reinstalled it in the car. I strung that wire to where the eboost2 harness was (under passenger carpet on my car). Next I screwed the new shift ball in and ran that wire to the same spot.
Next, I stripped the green and orange wires on the eboost harness. I thought about soldering these connections also, but it seemed rather silly if I ever had to remove the center console again. I just used standard male/female crimp connectors with the female one being insulated so I didn't have to tape it all up. The wire from the shifter ball I hooked to the green wire. On the small push button, I hooked up one wire to the orange wire on the eboost harness. I then grounded the remaining wires from the shifter ball and other pushbutton switches. You must ground these two wires.
CONFIGURE EBOOST
In your eboost2, you will have to configure the number of set points and adjust the duty cycle and gate pressure in each set point. This will take some effort to get all dialed in. Might be best to jot down what set point makes what boost level. You will also have to turn on switch logic and set to setting SSB. Consult the manual, it's all in there.
Overall this is very easy to do. I wish I would have done it years ago. My total time on this project is maybe 1 to 1.5 hours and that was taking my sweet time.
This is what it looks like in the car, and a short video description. Nothing special!
[video=youtube;jAwjauXVR10]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAwjauXVR10[/video]
These two pics just explain how the wires are hooked up and shows a 'ramped' boost curve.
DISCLAIMER: I have no idea how to duplicate this with other boost controllers.
WHY BOOST BY GEAR?
Why would you want to run boost by gear? Simple answer! It allows you to ramp boost in based on what gear you are in. If you have trouble running 20lbs in first gear and getting traction, now you can run less in 1st, a little more in 2nd, and hopefully all the boost in high gear.
THE RUNDOWN:
I run a th400 using a B&M Pro Ratchet shifter. I do not use a transbrake. Why does that matter? Because I bought the shift ball with a push-button switch in it that many use to activate a transbrake. If you were using this button to activate a transbrake, you would have to fashion up some other button that you can depress during gear shifts or use for the brake. If you have a manual trans, this same process would work just as well. You could buy a shiftball with a button and do the exact same thing.
HOW DOES IT WORK?
On the eboost2 wiring harness that is probably tucked under your carpet or dash, there are some wires that are not connected to anything. Specifically you are looking for the green wire and the orange wire. Hooking the green wire up to the shift knob switch allows you to move up set points with each press of this button. Each set point will need to be configured to have a different (higher) duty cycle and gate pressure. Prior to this, you will have to go into the nSP menu and configure the number of set points. Since I have 3 gears, I will have 3 different set points. Hooking the orange wire to another switch allows you to move down set points with each press of the button. All you are doing when pressing either button is grounding the wire. See diagram below.
WHAT TO DO
I ordered the B&M button shift ball from Summit and just ordered a standard 'normally open' push button switch from an online vendor for a couple bucks. I then stopped by home depot for a little roll of 16ga wire and some crimp connectors. First things first, I removed my center console as I had to drill a hole for the little switch on my shifter plate. I then measured how long of wire I would need from this switch to reach the orange wire and made it extra long. I stripped the wire on both ends and proceeded to solder a wire directly to both of the posts on the switch. Once completed with that, I finished installing the switch in the center console and then reinstalled it in the car. I strung that wire to where the eboost2 harness was (under passenger carpet on my car). Next I screwed the new shift ball in and ran that wire to the same spot.
Next, I stripped the green and orange wires on the eboost harness. I thought about soldering these connections also, but it seemed rather silly if I ever had to remove the center console again. I just used standard male/female crimp connectors with the female one being insulated so I didn't have to tape it all up. The wire from the shifter ball I hooked to the green wire. On the small push button, I hooked up one wire to the orange wire on the eboost harness. I then grounded the remaining wires from the shifter ball and other pushbutton switches. You must ground these two wires.
CONFIGURE EBOOST
In your eboost2, you will have to configure the number of set points and adjust the duty cycle and gate pressure in each set point. This will take some effort to get all dialed in. Might be best to jot down what set point makes what boost level. You will also have to turn on switch logic and set to setting SSB. Consult the manual, it's all in there.
Overall this is very easy to do. I wish I would have done it years ago. My total time on this project is maybe 1 to 1.5 hours and that was taking my sweet time.
This is what it looks like in the car, and a short video description. Nothing special!
[video=youtube;jAwjauXVR10]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jAwjauXVR10[/video]
These two pics just explain how the wires are hooked up and shows a 'ramped' boost curve.
Last edited:
