Easy questions from new shelby owner:

[thetexastyrant]

I've had a lot of fast Fords but just got my first Shelby.
I want any & all tips from the Shelby veterans!

Any known issues to look out for on these cars?
(Besides the multiple wreck videos! It seems easy to drive so I don't know how so many lose control.)

If I want to make a pass:
(1) what size rear wheels for race tires will clear the SVTPP rear brakes?
(2) which race tires, & what PSI usually works?
(3) what launch & shift points usually net best results?
(4) traction control? (I've read that it's tricky.)
(5) are shocks adjustable? (I think I read that somewhere.)
(6) anything else I am, in my ignorance, forgetting?

Here's what I bought:
2011 GT500 SVTPP
17,800 miles

Completely stock except that the original owner had his Ford dealership install the "750hp FRPP SC Kit." (part # CM-6066-MSVT29PD)
The Ford paperwork that came with the car says the FRPP SC kit came with:
-2.9L Polished 17psi Whipple w/ "Crusher" inlet (whatever that means)
-Whipple 123mm MAF housing w/ zip tube
-65mm Dual Bore Cobra Jet Throttle Body
-FRPP upgraded dual fuel pump assembly
-FRPP CAI/Filter kit
It also had evidence in the paperwork that the installing dealership had had to provide FRPP with specific vehicle info before being mailed the
-Preprogrammed ProCal Tool
It doesn't say that it came in the kit in the paperwork, but the far right vent has a digital SVT A/F gauge in it.
(I've only driven the car about 50 miles & given it WOT once. At WOT, I didn't notice PSI but AFR was 11.60)

Right now, I'm having it sealed with Opticoat & it, therefore, isn't at my house.
Afterwards, I'd like to take it to the track 1-2 times to make the best pass I can in it.
I'm not interested in further modifications (except tires); only to capitalize on what I already have.

Thanks a million in advance for any & all help you guys send me!

 

[1st usa car]

you dont have adjustable shocks -- thats the only question I can answer. I dont hit the drag strip.

 

[RedVenom48]

1. 2011 can run 15x10 inch rear drag wheels with a rear sway bar relocation kit. I got a no name one that came on my car, but I have a Steeda kit ready for a swap.

2. So many answers, but ill take a set of Mickey Thompson ET Street Rs if you want a DOT capable tire. Ive run Mickeys in 295/55R15 on my 15's and work well at the track. Havent tried their ET Street S/S but its the same compound. I have a set of 18x10 wheels that have 305/45R18 Nitto NT05Rs. They are a great roll race tire and are ok on a dig, but the Mickeys take the cake for a dig. M&H and Hoosier make some bad ass slicks too.

3. Each track is different. Start off wth street launches to get a feel for the track, grip out of the hole etc. DO NOT SIDESTEP OR CLUTCH DROP. You will bend/break axles and housings. A great part you should buy is a Swarr rear axle housing brace. Im convinced it saved my rear housing when I sent enough power through my driveline to bend the shit otta my stock axles. Its a bolt in kit, some have it welded in. Some also have the axle tubes completely welded into the diff housing, but I think the Swarr bar bolted in is strong enough to not need it.

Quick release is ok but dont clutch drop.

Shift points just before 6100 on stock. Ive got my rev limiter set to 6500 so I shift at about 6200. By the time the shift is done, its seamless and doesnt hit the rev limiter.

Research WOT Box, and you should consider an MGW Gen 2 shifter and Royal Purple syncromax trans fluid as mandatory upgrades if you want to shift under high RPM load like at a strip. Trust me, its worth every penny.

4. I turn traction control completely off, but you can try sport mode. Press brake at a stop, quickly double press trac button and it should pop up sport mode. See if you like it, but learning to do it with no trac assistance is the best way to get your car down the track fast.

Your engine is modded pretty damn well. Youll want to consider a clutch upgrade and a driveshaft upgrade. The sooner the better on the driveshaft.

If I missed anything, someone will chime in or ask away!

 

[JB_2010GT500]

Hi--welcome to the boards! You may get very different answers since some of these are pretty subjective. Here goes...
(1) I think you can only go down to 18".
(2) I use Mickey Thompson ET Street drag radials. Around 15-17 psi works for me.
(3) I've found the best launch is about 3,500 rpm. Too low, and you'll bog. Too high and you'll just spin the tires. The tricky part is how fast to let the clutch out. I try to let off pretty quickly. I take all shifts to redline since that's where my Kenne Bell makes max HP.
(4) I've always found that I can get way lower 60' times (on drag radials) with traction control turned off.
(5) No.
(6) I know you said you don't want to mod the car but mentioned changing out your tires. If you're planning on drag racing beyond a few outings, I would put in a 1 piece driveshaft with a safety loop at a minimum. Once you add sticky tires your driveshaft will become the weak link. I would also upgrade the rear axles to Moser or Strange 31 spline as the stock axles can bend after a bunch of hard launches on sticky tires. Not very expensive in the grand scheme of things. But if you're planning on only going once or twice then the stock components will probably hold up even with drag radials.

Hope this helps.

John


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[thetexastyrant]

Thank you all for the info! Keep it coming. Everything helps!